Keeps blowing fuse need parts?

Yes, the most common cause of a dryer blowing thermal fuses is a clogged or restricted exhaust vent.

Look for a part of that wire cable that is rubbing on metal somewhere or that some mechanic pinched under a bolt or drilled a screw through. It may take some time but the closer you look at that wire from end to end the faster you will find the problem. Blowing a 30 amp fuse means something is shorting out pretty good so go find the short.

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Your vehicle has air bags that are part of the suspension. They are made of rubber and over the years thaey get cracks in them.This also can cause the air pump to run continusly to the point of burning out the pump or blowing the fuse, There is also a little arm that attaches to the rear end that may have come off. This part goes to a sensor that could keep it from not airing up the air bags, If you don't hear the pump coming on see if the fuse has blown. If so replace the fuse see if the pump comes on. If it pumps the vehicle up get a spray bottle full of soapy water and spray each air bag to look for leaks. There is a place that sells remanufactured air bags on the internet or try this number 18665972397. hope this helps leave comment

Not at 20 years of age with all those issues.

This is only me,but you never buy,sell loan,lend,or otherwise get involved with friends or even family,as heartless as it sounds or it will bite your every time.

When a fuse blows suspect an overload in either the power supply or main amp stage. The most likely cause is some part acting like a piece of wire instead of doing it's job. In the power supply it could be the transformer, voltage regulator, or the rectifier or any diode. In the amp section any semi-conductor on the heat sink.
Check first for burnt or damaged parts. If you have a multimeter any transistor or diode will quickly show up. For when you have the meter on the ohms setting and touch the terminals with the probes, it will show as if you had touched the probes together.

When a fuse keeps blowing suspect an overload in either the power supply section or main amp part.
Look for burnt or damaged parts first.
The suspects in the power section are: transformer, diodes, rectifier, voltage stablizer, regulator.
In the Amp Section anything on the heat sink.

Is this an error 16 rorate problem? It does seem weird that you still get it having replaced the transfer unit.
However the printer does have a nasty habit of not re-setting things correctly - it creates the error message by blowing a fuse on the unit and it has been known to do this even when a new unit is put in.
There are a couple of places on ebay that sell a kit that explains how to get to the fuse and they supply a new fuse. It appears to be a 1/4 amp slow blow fuse
To get at it you will need to unscrew a black plastic plate at one end of the transfer unit (it is the one that has a square hole with the main electrical contacts poking through. Loosen the 2 screws and remove. the fuse is on a small circuit board that is easily removed. replace teh fuse (needs soldering) and this might do the trick. If you have a tester might be worth removing the small circuit board (wire connector comes off easily) and checking.
This fues usually blows when the transfer unit is old and a sensor unit gets clogged up. However even when teh sensor and the band at the side of the belt has been cleaned the fuse still sometimes blows.
This might solve the problem.

If your blowing fuses then you have something grounded or shorted. By grounded I mean a wire has come loose and is touching the cabinet or a part that allows it to go to ground or your motor, capcitor or compressor is shorted.

You may has a blown fuse inside the receiver. Unplug it from the wall, open it up and look around the area the A/C plug goes into the board. There should be a glass fuse. Sometimes you can tell by looking closely at the fuse if it is blown. They have a very slim filament that goes from one end to the other. If it is broken or not connected or if it looks like it is burned anywhere in the glass area, it is blown. Look at the metal ens caps for a amperage rating and get another fuse of the same value at radio shack or anyplace that sells fuses. make sure the power cord is not plugged in when you do any of this or you will get shocked.

When you first go to turn on the unit, do it with the speakers disconnected. That way, if a speaker is the cause of the fuse blowing, you will at least see that the unit turns on.

If it does turn on, turn it back off and connect the speakers and try again. If it blows a fuse, you most likely have a shorted speaker causing the amp to draw to much current and blowing the fuse.

If you replace the fuse, and it blows again after turing the unit back on with speakers connected, you have much deeper problems that will require electronic troubleshooting to determain the exact cause. But it is normally the amplifier having a shorted channel. Sometimes a random part failure can cause this for no apparent reason.

You will then need to have it serviced at a service center.

I hope this was helpful, let me know if you need more help.

Dave

the fuse will always blow if there is a shorted component. the horizontal output transistor may be the most likely culprit, if you are not a technician, have it service by a qualified one.