Asko 24 in. D3350 Dishwasher Logo

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Guy Scudamore Posted on Aug 15, 2007
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F4 problem how do I get to the filters and how do I test the valve mechanism.

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  • Expert 351 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 02, 2008
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F4 fault means set to time fill,turn power off wait 5 sec then press and hold prog and start buttons in and turn power on wait for previos fault to show then release.then press the programme button the dishwasher will show 1 and start filling,press and hold prog button until it stops filling then press prog button until 4 shows on display,then press start finished,turn off then on and test on cycle.

  • mrocca Jan 01, 2011

    Thank you Greendude! There were just a couple things we found out too...run your machine until the F4 comes up, then start your process... and I think ours went right to the "1" (and skipped the F4) so then we just pressed "program button" till it came to the 4. Thank you soooo much for putting this online so that we could fix our machine too!

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  • Posted on Oct 09, 2008
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Very sad to report I have same problem. ASKO won't own up to their mistakes. Why are people still purchasing their products? Are we that pathetic that we cannot make them accountable? No won

A

Anonymous

ASKO does not want to own up 100%`to this problem. Wants me to pay for labor but they will pay for parts the part being the $200 or so manufacturer defective part as is common reported here. The treatment varies as you can see by the posting here. I thought I was buying the most energy efficient, swedish made machine and hopefully problem free. Not so as I discovered. Why do us innocent consumers have to pay for this manufacturer's mistakes? FixYa blog has helped me get my plasma TV out of warranty with manufacturer's defect repaired for free, though it took six months! It is not right for us to have to send a hardly used washer to the curbside.

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0helpful
1answer

Kindly assist I'got a Mitsubishi 2800 colt tdi when ever I accelarate it just stop what would be the problem

If your Mitsubishi 2800 Colt TDI is stalling or stopping when you accelerate, it could be due to a number of issues. Here are some possible causes:
  1. Clogged fuel filter: A clogged fuel filter can restrict fuel flow to the engine, causing it to stall when you accelerate. A mechanic can replace the fuel filter to resolve this issue.
  2. Faulty fuel pump: If the fuel pump is not working properly, it can also cause a lack of fuel flow to the engine and result in stalling. A mechanic can test the fuel pump to see if it is working properly and replace it if necessary.
  3. Airflow sensor malfunction: The airflow sensor measures the amount of air entering the engine and sends this information to the engine control module. If the sensor is malfunctioning, it can cause the engine to stall when accelerating. A mechanic can diagnose and replace the airflow sensor if necessary.
  4. Clogged or malfunctioning EGR valve: The EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valve recirculates exhaust gas back into the engine to reduce emissions. If it becomes clogged or stops working, it can cause the engine to stall. A mechanic can clean or replace the EGR valve to resolve this issue.
I would recommend taking your vehicle to a qualified mechanic to have it diagnosed and repaired as soon as possible to prevent further damage or safety issues.
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1answer

2009 MV Agusta F4 RR 312 1078 fault codes

Tighten the cable to the exhaust valve , they stretch out some, its not opening all the way
1helpful
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2.7 liter engine has a miss. replaced plugs, fuel filter, egr switching selinoid, and downflow o2 sensor. Was told by mechanic that they have found that valves needed to be adjusted.

Before you spend that much more money - replace the distributor cap and rotor (if equipped). If it has a coil pack (or packs) have it (them) tested. Also, under the pack(s) will be a modular. This cannot be tested however, if it looks melted (whitish), or you see bubbles, it is bad. It should have a smooth sleek surface on the top.

If these are not the problem, than the mechanic is right - and you may need to have the lifters adjusted - valves replaced - if you're going to have them adjusted, personally, I'd have the valves, rods and lifters replaced; if it's affordable. If not, have them adjusted.

Have the mechanic decide which would be best (and use your jugement/ go with your instincts - based on your vehicle mileage.

Please let me know if you need any further assistance.

carsandcomps,

Guru, Premium Expert @ Fixya.com
0helpful
1answer

No water going to icemaker

HI. The most common issue here will be the water inlet valve. it may be stuck closed, ro mechanically damaged. use the procedure below to confirm damage.

The water inlet valve is located behind your refrigerator. Find the water supply line coming into the valve and turn it off at the source (typically under the sink). Disconnect the supply line. Remove the screws that secure the inlet valve in place.

The water inlet valve is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the water inlet valve before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the terminals with slip on connectors
Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.
Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush, or warm running water. If you cannot clear the clog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves).
 
Test the water inlet valve for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of 200 to 500 ohms. Close inspection of the inlet valve and especially the coil may reveal the exact ohm resistance rating to test for. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced.


NOTE_ Make sure the water filter is up to date(IF EQUIPPED). Once these filters reach their filtering limit, they will usually heel the flow of water, thus, shutting down the ice-maker, or dispenser.
0helpful
1answer

Water not flowing into ice maker.

HI, this is an inlet issue. it may be clogged with debris, or mechanically failing , as well. Follow the procedure to inspect this device. replace if needed.


The water inlet valve is located behind your refrigerator. Find the water supply line coming into the valve and turn it off at the source (typically under the sink). Disconnect the supply line. Remove the screws that secure the inlet valve in place.

The water inlet valve is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the water inlet valve before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the terminals with slip on connectors

Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.

Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush, or warm running water. If you cannot clear the clog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves).


Test the water inlet valve for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of 200 to 500 ohms. Close inspection of the inlet valve and especially the coil may reveal the exact ohm resistance rating to test for. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced.


NOTE_ Check the date on the water filter(if equipped). If the filter has reached its filtering limit, it should be replaced. this will obstruct the flow, if so.
2helpful
2answers

F4 Fault indication

F4 is a water inlet fault. It doesn't make sense if you have this fault indication with water flowing into the unit. Does the dishwasher drain properly? Usual suspects for an F4 indication would be a clogged inlet line, water supply turned off, bad fill valve, or a control board failure. Let me know if this helps, or give me a little more information on what you have done to correct so far.
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