Question about Asko 24 in. D3350 Dishwasher

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F4 problem how do I get to the filters and how do I test the valve mechanism.

Posted by Guy Scudamore on


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Ian Greenland

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F4 fault means set to time fill,turn power off wait 5 sec then press and hold prog and start buttons in and turn power on wait for previos fault to show then release.then press the programme button the dishwasher will show 1 and start filling,press and hold prog button until it stops filling then press prog button until 4 shows on display,then press start finished,turn off then on and test on cycle.

Posted on Mar 02, 2008

  • mrocca Jan 01, 2011

    Thank you Greendude! There were just a couple things we found out your machine until the F4 comes up, then start your process... and I think ours went right to the "1" (and skipped the F4) so then we just pressed "program button" till it came to the 4. Thank you soooo much for putting this online so that we could fix our machine too!




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Very sad to report I have same problem. ASKO won't own up to their mistakes. Why are people still purchasing their products? Are we that pathetic that we cannot make them accountable? No won

Posted on Oct 09, 2008



ASKO does not want to own up 100%`to this problem. Wants me to pay for labor but they will pay for parts the part being the $200 or so manufacturer defective part as is common reported here. The treatment varies as you can see by the posting here. I thought I was buying the most energy efficient, swedish made machine and hopefully problem free. Not so as I discovered. Why do us innocent consumers have to pay for this manufacturer's mistakes? FixYa blog has helped me get my plasma TV out of warranty with manufacturer's defect repaired for free, though it took six months! It is not right for us to have to send a hardly used washer to the curbside.

Posted on Aug 26, 2008

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2009 MV Agusta F4 RR 312 1078 fault codes

Hi, Paulcalver for this scenario you will need your service, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your MV, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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The water to my whirlpool freezer and ice is not coming out. american type ?

I would check the water inlet valve the coils may have gone bad test them for ohms and for voltage

The water inlet valve is operated by line voltage supplied through the ice maker control. Power is applied for approximately 7-9 seconds during the harvest cycle and energizes the solenoid on the valve to allow water to flow.
You can check the solenoid for continuity with a multi-meter. On models with multiple solenoid inlet valves, you will need to determine which portion or portions of the valve are used for the ice maker. You can normally follow the inlet tubing from the ice maker back to the valve. Unplug the refrigerator and turn off the water supply to the valve before working with this part.

(HOW TO TEST INLET VALVE: Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush or warm running water. If you cannot clear theclog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves). Test thewaterinletvalve for continuity using a multImeter. First, inspect the coil for an indication of it's ohm rating. If no information is printed on the coil, then use the range of 170 to 500 ohms. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading that matches the coil's rating or if you don't know the rating then it should fall into the range of 170 to 500 ohms. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced. If the inlet valve has two coils, test the second coil in the same way (note that they may not have the same ohm rating). The valve can also fail mechanically. So even if it passes the electrical test, it may still require replacement. If you have ruled out all other possibilities, go ahead and replace the valve.

Check the tap valve.A bad tap valve-the little device that connects the ice maker's water supply tube to the water pipe-may cause the problem where the ice maker's supply tube connects to the water pipe. If necessary, replace the inlet valve and the tap valve. For the tap valve, use the type that requires you to drill a 1/4-inch hole (as opposed to the "self-piercing" type). You can buy anice maker connection kitand do this yourself, or call a repair person or plumber to install an inline water filter when replacing the valve.






Mar 23, 2015 | Whirlpool Refrigerators

1 Answer

Misfiring on bank 1 3 and 5

misfiring is also from injectors and low fuel pressure. To be all on the same side I suspect injector wiring ( possible loose connection on the ECM). Have a compression test done to delete mechanical problems (valves)

Mar 05, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2005 MV Agusta F4 Brutale S will not start

Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
14. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
15. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
16. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
17. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
18. Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand safety switch.
19. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
20. A stuck bent or burnt valve.
21. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
22. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
23. Check for engine trouble codes.
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Nov 09, 2017 | 2005 MV Agusta F4 Brutale S

1 Answer

Noise in engine happens when it sits for 30 minutes or longer and sounds like a knocking noise coming from timing chain area and goes away after 5 or so seconds. Is was told by a dealership that it could...

possibly the incorrect oil filter in use
quality filters have an anti-drain back valve where the cheaper ones do not
it doesn't have to be left overnight to do an oil pressure test as it is just a matter of removing the oil sender unit and screwing in a mechanical gauge

Sep 14, 2017 | 2007 Isuzu i-290 Extended Cab

1 Answer

2.7 liter engine has a miss. replaced plugs, fuel filter, egr switching selinoid, and downflow o2 sensor. Was told by mechanic that they have found that valves needed to be adjusted.

Before you spend that much more money - replace the distributor cap and rotor (if equipped). If it has a coil pack (or packs) have it (them) tested. Also, under the pack(s) will be a modular. This cannot be tested however, if it looks melted (whitish), or you see bubbles, it is bad. It should have a smooth sleek surface on the top.

If these are not the problem, than the mechanic is right - and you may need to have the lifters adjusted - valves replaced - if you're going to have them adjusted, personally, I'd have the valves, rods and lifters replaced; if it's affordable. If not, have them adjusted.

Have the mechanic decide which would be best (and use your jugement/ go with your instincts - based on your vehicle mileage.

Please let me know if you need any further assistance.


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May 07, 2010 | 2000 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner

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