F4 problem how do I get to the filters and how do I test the valve mechanism.

3 Answers

Anonymous

Level 2:

An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points

MVP:

An expert that got 5 achievements.

Vice President:

An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.

Sergeant:

An expert that has over 500 points.
Expert
351 Answers

F4 fault means set to time fill,turn power off wait 5 sec then press and hold prog and start buttons in and turn power on wait for previos fault to show then release.then press the programme button the dishwasher will show 1 and start filling,press and hold prog button until it stops filling then press prog button until 4 shows on display,then press start finished,turn off then on and test on cycle.

Posted on Mar 02, 2008

mrocca Jan 01, 2011

Thank you Greendude! There were just a couple things we found out too...run your machine until the F4 comes up, then start your process... and I think ours went right to the "1" (and skipped the F4) so then we just pressed "program button" till it came to the 4. Thank you soooo much for putting this online so that we could fix our machine too!

Anonymous

Level 1:

An expert who has achieved level 1.
Contributor
1 Answer

Very sad to report I have same problem. ASKO won't own up to their mistakes. Why are people still purchasing their products? Are we that pathetic that we cannot make them accountable? No won

Posted on Oct 09, 2008

Anonymous

ASKO does not want to own up 100%`to this problem. Wants me to pay for labor but they will pay for parts the part being the $200 or so manufacturer defective part as is common reported here. The treatment varies as you can see by the posting here. I thought I was buying the most energy efficient, swedish made machine and hopefully problem free. Not so as I discovered. Why do us innocent consumers have to pay for this manufacturer's mistakes? FixYa blog has helped me get my plasma TV out of warranty with manufacturer's defect repaired for free, though it took six months! It is not right for us to have to send a hardly used washer to the curbside.

Posted on Aug 26, 2008

Add Your Answer

Upload

Upload an image from your computer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

Loading...

Include an image. It's worth a thousand words.

prev next

Related Questions:

0helpful

1answer

2009 MV Agusta F4 RR 312 1078 fault codes

Tighten the cable to the exhaust valve , they stretch out some, its not opening all the way

Read full answer

Sep 26, 2017 • 2009 MV Agusta F4 RR 312 1078

0helpful

1answer

Replaced f/p could it be mechanical fuel return valve in tank; motor revs up to4000 rpm then cuts

Fuel filter,air filter.

Read full answer

Dec 07, 2014 • Cars & Trucks

0helpful

1answer

Misfiring on bank 1 3 and 5

misfiring is also from injectors and low fuel pressure. To be all on the same side I suspect injector wiring ( possible loose connection on the ECM). Have a compression test done to delete mechanical problems (valves)

Read full answer

Mar 05, 2014 • Cars & Trucks

0helpful

1answer

Mechanics unable to locate EGR valve in order to pass smog test

good luck.

Read full answer

Feb 26, 2013 • Cars & Trucks

0helpful

1answer

Glowworm 30 hxi with intermitent f4 code. Changed probes and lead and changed the ingniter. Flue ok and gas analyser checks all good. someone said it could be the gas valve or pcb....any ideas

The problem is in the mechanical parts.check the system and observe the cycle.

Read full answer

Nov 30, 2010 • Heating & Cooling

1helpful

2answers

I have a 1990 F250 XLT Lariat 7.5l E40d, I have gone through the whole thing with a fine tooth comb new distributor plugs wires IAC injectors fuel filter and tested the EGR TPS and vacuum Leaks I have not...

Compression test , do cylinder leak down test. mechanical problem maybe . How many miles on the engine ? burnt valve

Read full answer

Oct 07, 2017 • 1992 Ford F250

1helpful

1answer

2.7 liter engine has a miss. replaced plugs, fuel filter, egr switching selinoid, and downflow o2 sensor. Was told by mechanic that they have found that valves needed to be adjusted.

Before you spend that much more money - replace the distributor cap and rotor (if equipped). If it has a coil pack (or packs) have it (them) tested. Also, under the pack(s) will be a modular. This cannot be tested however, if it looks melted (whitish), or you see bubbles, it is bad. It should have a smooth sleek surface on the top.

If these are not the problem, than the mechanic is right - and you may need to have the lifters adjusted - valves replaced - if you're going to have them adjusted, personally, I'd have the valves, rods and lifters replaced; if it's affordable. If not, have them adjusted.

Have the mechanic decide which would be best (and use your jugement/ go with your instincts - based on your vehicle mileage.

Please let me know if you need any further assistance.

carsandcomps,

Guru, Premium Expert @ Fixya.com

Read full answer

May 07, 2010 • 2000 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner

0helpful

1answer

No water going to icemaker

HI. The most common issue here will be the water inlet valve. it may be stuck closed, ro mechanically damaged. use the procedure below to confirm damage.

The water inlet valve is located behind your refrigerator. Find the water supply line coming into the valve and turn it off at the source (typically under the sink). Disconnect the supply line. Remove the screws that secure the inlet valve in place.

The water inlet valve is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the water inlet valve before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the terminals with slip on connectors
Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.
Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush, or warm running water. If you cannot clear the clog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves).
　
Test the water inlet valve for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of 200 to 500 ohms. Close inspection of the inlet valve and especially the coil may reveal the exact ohm resistance rating to test for. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced.

NOTE_ Make sure the water filter is up to date(IF EQUIPPED). Once these filters reach their filtering limit, they will usually heel the flow of water, thus, shutting down the ice-maker, or dispenser.

Read full answer

Dec 01, 2009 • Amana 22.6 cu. ft. Side-By-Side...

0helpful

1answer

Water not flowing into ice maker.

HI, this is an inlet issue. it may be clogged with debris, or mechanically failing , as well. Follow the procedure to inspect this device. replace if needed.

The water inlet valve is located behind your refrigerator. Find the water supply line coming into the valve and turn it off at the source (typically under the sink). Disconnect the supply line. Remove the screws that secure the inlet valve in place.

The water inlet valve is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the water inlet valve before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the terminals with slip on connectors

Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.

Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush, or warm running water. If you cannot clear the clog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves).

Test the water inlet valve for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of 200 to 500 ohms. Close inspection of the inlet valve and especially the coil may reveal the exact ohm resistance rating to test for. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced.

NOTE_ Check the date on the water filter(if equipped). If the filter has reached its filtering limit, it should be replaced. this will obstruct the flow, if so.

Read full answer

Nov 09, 2009 • Kenmore Refrigerators

2helpful

2answers

F4 Fault indication

F4 is a water inlet fault. It doesn't make sense if you have this fault indication with water flowing into the unit. Does the dishwasher drain properly? Usual suspects for an F4 indication would be a clogged inlet line, water supply turned off, bad fill valve, or a control board failure. Let me know if this helps, or give me a little more information on what you have done to correct so far.

Read full answer

Jul 09, 2007 • Asko 24 in. D3350 Dishwasher