Question about Rangemaster 110 (Dual Fuel) Dual Fuel (Electric and Gas) Kitchen Range

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Rangemaster victorians deluxe, double oven , duel fuel

We have a vey noisy right hand oven, it's a loud tinny nose, like something hitting something, we use the right hand oven the most the cooker is 10 years old but in fantastic condition, this noise has been going on, for about 6 months on and off, it doesn't happen all the time, and it don't seem to happen on lower temperatures, any help out there . thanks

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1 Answer

richie46

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  • Rangemaster Master
  • 12,962 Answers

Is there any sort of fan in there - could be some blades hitting surrounding.

Posted on Sep 14, 2017

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

SOURCE: Left hand oven not getting hot!!

If there is a low flame then the chances are the mercury flame protection device is broken. This is a safety device that protects the cooker from allowing full gas flow if the flame fails. However if the switch is broken then it won't allow full gas on to the burner. Hence a low level of burner which does not get very hot.

Posted on Dec 17, 2007

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Anonymous

  • 188 Answers

SOURCE: Oven will not respond

try pressing the oven regulator knob for a while 3 to 5 seconds on ignition its a safty thing so kids cannot gas themselves all cookers have them. you have to hold it in.

Posted on Mar 26, 2009

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Rangemaster 110

Reading the user manual, it states that the flame initially comes on low, until it is "sensed" by the flame sensing device. This to me sounds suspiciously like the flame isn't being sensed and so never gets increased to the normal level.
I've not had time for a proper look at it.... but from a quick glance this morning this looked like a "flame rectifier" probe next to my burner (as we commonly use in boilers to sense if the gas burner is lit). This is just a metal probe. They send a high-ish AC voltage signal (Sine wave) from it, through the flame, to the earthed metal case. The flame acts like a diode (yes it really does work !) and simple electronics detects the change in the applied signal (rectified) due to the flame. I know from personal experience they (the probes) get coated with crud (carbon, etc) and need a good clean. I suggest you try cleaning both it and the metal area opposite it. If necessary the probes metal tip could be GENTLY rubbed with very fine Emmery cloth, etc, if badly coated.
Other than that, if it is sensing the flame, then it must be the gas control device (solenoid valve ?) that is jammed, blocked or just defective.
Simples......

Posted on May 19, 2009

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Door glass shattered 3 hours after cooking

Hi there folks It also happened to me, so after ringing rangemaster they said it can happen due to faults in the glass, unfortunately my warranity had run out and they wanted t charge a fortune to repair. so i had a look inside the door my self which is only four screws on the sides to remove the outer skin to find it was a single piece of ordinary toughend glass about 300mm x 300mm fixed in place with six clips like the ones you find one those glass picture frames, i got a new piece from me local glass merchants for less than £10 and it took only mins to fix job done, I hope this help someone and it my save you quite a bit of cash Cheers folks Markbricky

Posted on Nov 01, 2009

Anonymous

  • 13 Answers

SOURCE: Rangemaster 110 gas cooker - RH Oven lights but doesn't heat up

Its going to be the fsd gone if the burner lights all the way across, the type of control sparky is on about hasnt been used on domestic uk cookers for around 30-40 years., as its a gas passing part, unless you are gas competent you will have to call in a pro.

Posted on Nov 08, 2009

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RANGEMASTER 110 Cooker FLAME FAILURE DEVICE fitting


My progress to date (20090127):
1 Turn off the gas supply to the oven
2 Turn off the electricity supply
3 Remove the oven linings
4 Remove the storage drawer
5 Remove the three screws holding on the bottom trim and the trim
6 Crank up the front roller
7 Pull out the oven carefully making sure the gas hose and electrical lead are long enough and not caught
8 Working from the rear of the Rangemaster, for the right-hand oven, remove the four screws on the corners of the large cover plate at the back of the oven about half way down on the left-hand side as viewed from the back.
9 Remove the cover plate.
10 Go to the front of the oven. Above the burner assembly, towards the left is a thin metal rod running front to back. This is held in place by a clip at the back and by the hole in the metal frame at the front. Remove the metal clip at the back using a pair of long-nosed pliers. Retain the clip.
11 This should release the metal rod (flame sensing device) and you should be able to push it through the hole and out at the back. It is attached to a long copper wire.
12 Go to the back of the range. You should be able to work the wire back through the hole in the rear metal plate and up to the gas valve. The wire is held in place at the gas valve by a bent clip on the rear right. Carefully bend this clip back towards the oven to release the wire.
13 The wire goes down under the gas valve and to a threded bolt end into the bottom of the gas valve ad the bolt is held in place using a locking nut.
14 Remove the locking nut using a small spanner. The threded bolt should now turn, with the aid of long-nosed pliers.
15 The next trick is to remove this threaded bolt on the end of the copper wire and I have not figured out how to do that. It will unscrew a good way but becomes tight and will not come out, as though something inside the valve is holding it in place. Could it be that the flame sensing device has to be removed and inserted from inside the gas valve? If so, what a daft piece of engineering this is.
16 HELP.

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