Amp protection light

check you remote wire to test unplug your subs and turn on system if protection mood come one your audio output may have problem''if noting happen connect back your your subs if the protection comes back; you sub wiring have to be check or they are bad'

I don't recommend it. It may work good during low volume, but from experience, you will only turn it up so high before it trips the protect light on the amp since it's drawing too much current due to extra speaker(sub), then you have to turn off the radio and turn it back on to get it working again, it gets annoying. I recommend saving up for a mono amp, it will keep your system sounding clean and clear. the setup you specified will work, but it's not recommended. Your amp may run hot as well.

Ok, being an old-school "back yard" installer when i began, gave me 2 immediate possible diagnosis for your problem. I was running a Kicker zx550.3 amp to 2 Polk DB 12'inch Subs rated 600w max 1500w. I also used a LOC converter (Line Output Converter) in order to use my stock Bose stereo since it did not have RCA outputs. Now shortly after running this setup (approx 2 weeks) I noticed a substantial drop in sound output and also noticed some ground noise/distortion coming thru the subs. After tracing my wires that connected my LOC to the Amp, and Rear Speaker Wires of my Radio to the LOC, I noticed that by jostling the wires there was a connection issue. If you are using your factory radio to power your regular component speakers (tweeters, coax, mids) then chances are your stereo feeds into a FACTORY INSTALLED amplifier. If thats the case, then you need to access a Wiring Diagram for the Harness coming off the Factory Amplifier! Once this is viewable, check the wiring and locate the "Amplifier to Radio Signal Wires" and also the "Amplifier to Speakers Signal Wires" ... Now go back to your LOC and look at the wires you tapped to get the Line Signals to the converter, and make sure that you havent tapped your lines off of the AMPLIFIER TO SPEAKER wires. These wires carry a small electrical current because they are coming powered from the Amplifier, and most Line Output Converters are PASSIVE, which could short the signal the LOC creates thus reducing your signal gain, but does have the capability to surge back to the Factory Amplifier, which could possibly melt the shielding of the factory wiring, and thus allow your signal to cross or ground out! If you can, try running another RCA input to your Sub-Amplifier from another source other than your car, and see if your protection lights go out and the amp returns to normal operation. If so then your LOC or Factory amp is to blame. If not, then the second diagnosis is much simpler, which is your Alternator current has been reduced due to many different possibilities, and you should acquire a .5 or 1 Farad Stiffening Capacitor which will reduce the excess draw from your charging system. But due to the first solution being my problem exactly, im willing to bet your's lies along the same variables... GL to you!

Disconnect subs from output of amplifier and then turn on car and radio. Does amp stay on or go into protect? If it stays on then there is something wrong with the subs or how they are wired (series, parallel ) to the box and amp. If it still goes into protect then something internal with amp.

you may be running 2 low of ohm load

may haveto turn sub on through the stereo itself if rca cables are good.

sounds like the sub that throws it into protect mode is cross wired pull sub out and make sure they are wired right make sure ground from sub goes to ground on box and do same for power wire

something is shorted in the circuit, or your subs. unhook the subs first and try it again, if it is still in protect then it is most likely the output transistors.

You cannot parallel two subs AND run them on the Bridge. You must have at LEAST a 4 ohm load on the bridge, and 2 4 ohm subs in parallel equals TWO OHMS. BAD!!! Move each sub to it's own channel or your amp will soon fry.

Hi, Off hand, I believe there is nothing wrong with the setup, maybe just not 100% compatible. It's just that the Sony Amp's protection is doing its job (just too good) and the stock radio is likewise doing it's job (but not too good). Just maybe, at poweron, the stock radio sends out a small burst output (maybe capacitor discharge) that we normally hear as a slight thump in the speakers which was when no Sony amp, ok. However, when you have added the amp, you also amplified the thump, which unfortunately the Sony protection reacts to. You can off course let it be since you have figured out a way to make it work or you can try and install a delay on for the power amp or separate it's power on from the stock stereo. The idea is to turn on the stereo with the Sony off and after a second or less, a manual switch or a delay activated switch will turn on the Sony. The idea is to switch on the Sony after the thump has finished. Good luck and hopes this gives you an idea. Pls post back how things turn up. Kind regards.