I just got the capacitor replaced on my ac and now the fan cycles through its 3 modes. F1 to F2 to F3 then back to the desired temp. The compressor is on but I'm worried that some other part will burn out. Is there some kind of internal reset switch? I turned it off at the power button, the reset on the plug and at the breaker and nothing works. Is it just a short in the control panel? Thanks
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If have a mini split unit that gives an E4, E5, E6, F1, F2, F3 error code a few things can cause this problems. How To Clear an E4, E5, E6, F1, F2, F3 Error Codes on a Mini Split
Power off the unit and turn off the breaker or disconnect.
Wait 2-3 minutes and power the unit back on.
Any problem that is not fixed will likely come back.
Here list of Kitchen Aid range and oven codes.
4 Digit Failure Codes
F1 - E0 EEPROM communication error
F1 - E1 EEPROM checksum error
F1 - E2 UL A/D error
F1 - E4 Model ID error
F1 - E5 Calibration shifted
F1 - E6 Latch signal mismatch error
F1 - E9 Stack overflow
F1 - E3 Wiring harness cavity size does not match stored value
F2 - E0 Shorted touch pad
F2 - E1 Keypad cable connection error
F2 - E5 Cancel key drive line open
F2 - E6 Cancel key drive line open
F3 - E0 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) opened (upper oven on double oven models)
F3 - E1 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) shorted (upper oven on double oven models)
F3 - E2 Oven temperature is too high (Cook mode)
F3 - E3 Oven temperature is too high (Clean mode)
F3 - E4 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) opened (lower oven on double oven models)
F3 - E5 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) shorted (lower oven on double oven models)
F3 - E6 Drawer sensor open
F3 - E7 Warming drawer sensor shorted
F4 - E1 Meat probe malfunction - shorted
F5 - E0 Door Switch
F5 - E1 Self clean latch will not lock
F5 - E2 Latch during CLEAN error
F5 - E5 Self clean temperature not reached within 45 minutes.
F5 - E6 Door is open, but latch is locked
F5 - E7 Self clean latch will not unlock
F6 - E0 Return line not connected
F7 - E1 Common switch wire defective
Two digit codes:
F0 ERC Board failure
F1 ERC Board failure
F2 Oven temperature is too high
F3 Oven temperature sensor open
F4 Oven temperature sensor shorted
F5 ERC Board failure
F7 Function key stuck on ERC
F8 ERC Board failure
F9 Oven door lock failure
Microwave and Microwave combo error codes:
F1 - E3 or F1 - E4 Electronic control malfunction
F2 - E0 or F2 - E1 Keypad connection error
F2 - E3 Keypad held down too long, or keypad is shorted.
If you get an error code, try first resetting the code:
1. Disconnect power for about two minutes.
2. Connect back power.
3. If code re-appears, test and eventually replace faulty part.
F1 - E0 EEPROM communication error F1 - E1 EEPROM checksum error F1 - E2 UL A/D error F1 - E4 Model ID error F1 - E5 Calibration shifted F1 - E6 Latch signal mismatch error F1 - E9 Stack overflow F1 - E3 Wiring harness cavity size does not match stored value F2 - E0 Shorted touch pad F2 - E1 Keypad cable connection error F2 - E5 Cancel key drive line open F2 - E6 Cancel key drive line open F3 - E0 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) opened (upper oven on double oven models) F3 - E1 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) shorted (upper oven on double oven models) F3 - E2 Oven temperature is too high (Cook mode) F3 - E3 Oven temperature is too high (Clean mode) F3 - E4 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) opened (lower oven on double oven models) F3 - E5 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) shorted (lower oven on double oven models) F3 - E6 Drawer sensor open F3 - E7 Warming drawer sensor shorted F4 - E1 Meat probe malfunction - shorted F5 - E0 Door Switch F5 - E1 Self clean latch will not lock F5 - E2 Latch during CLEAN error F5 - E5 Self clean temperature not reached within 45 minutes. F5 - E6 Door is open, but latch is locked F5 - E7 Self clean latch will not unlock F6 - E0 Return line not connected F7 - E1 Common switch wire defective
Two digit codes:
F0 ERC Board failure F1 ERC Board failure F2 Oven temperature is too high F3 Oven temperature sensor open F4 Oven temperature sensor shorted F5 ERC Board failure F7 Function key stuck on ERC F8 ERC Board failure F9 Oven door lock failure
Microwave and Microwave combo error codes:
F1 - E3 or F1 - E4 Electronic control malfunction
F2 - E0 or F2 - E1 Keypad connection error
F2 - E3 Keypad held down too long, or keypad is shorted.
If you get an error code, try first resetting the code: 1. Disconnect power for about two minutes. 2. Connect back power. 3. If code re-appears, test and eventually replace faulty part.
Well without a model number, I can tell you this. On some models, F3 indicates fan speed 3, which is high speed.If you push the mode button, these units will switch between f1, f2, f3 and smart fan. No problem.
On others, F3 indicates a fan speed error, either something is keeping the fan from turning, or there is a bad or loose connection somewhere.
On still other models, F3 indicates a freon leak or problem in the refrigerant circuit.
If carrier made their own units, they would probably act the same, but they don't. Model number is important, since the unit could be a daikin, LG or Samsung under the skin...
Having same problem...ac unit seems not to be changing fan speed and cooling level has been reduced ???? I have no solution. but we have just run into the 7 day of 95+ degrees with high humidity. do not believe the units have frozen up, just seems that the fan is in low speed mode and trying to raise it to F2 or F3 doesn't seem to help.??? Most of the time we have to increase temperature because its too cold ?? now it doesnt seem to be cooling the same ??? I await anyones solution.
You say the unit produces cold air ??? where are you getting the cold air from???
If your fan does not run in any speed F1, F2 F3. and a funny smell sounds like the motor is bad
Mine works in F2, F3 but not in F1
Unplu cord and remove front panel. Then remove electrical box, you should be able to find the blower motor leads.
Black is usually- hi speed motor
Blue or Yellow is- Medium Speed
Red is- low speed
Just exchange the wires to match the dial
I would say the f1,f2,f3,f4, is speeds on the fan motor.If you turn the unit on to cool then I would say you need to keep the fan running all the time.But need to run it med-high or high speed to give good cooling.
F1, F2, and F3 are the strength of the fan blowing the air conditioner. F1 circulates the least amount of air, F3 the most. I generally find that if the air conditioner isn't getting the job done on F1, F2 will do it. I typically only use F3 if I just want to circulate air fast in my place for awhile. As far as what is "better" with closed vent or open, that depends on what you want to do. If you are using air conditioning on a hot day, then vent closed is better because it will cool only air circulating in your place. Vent open will allow fresh air in from outside, and if it's a really hot day, the air conditioner might have a harder time cooling off the fresh air than the circulating air inside your place (as it's continually being cooled repeatedly by your air conditioner).
F1 - F3 are the fan speeds when the air conditioner is in fan only mode.
The vent can be opened or closed based on your preference. When the air conditioner is in a/c or dehumidifier mode having the vent closed will cause the a/c unit to recirculate the room air and cool / dehumidify quicker. When you open the vent the a/c unit takes air from outside and cools / dehumidifies it. It is obviously not as efficient this way but it does bring in fresh air.
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