Okay, the model isn't exact, I have a RBS245PDQ14, but it's close. I went to cook something Sunday, after putting it in the oven a few minutes later I got three beeps and a F3 E2 error (oven overheating), and the door was locked. I couldn't do anything to turn off the burners or open the door, so I turned off the circuit breaker. I turned the breaker back on after the oven cooled and was able to open the door and take out the charred remains of dinner, however, the burners came right back on. Regardless of what is on the control panel (even just the time), the burners come on and won't shut off and eventually the oven overheats, but they still don't whut off, so I have the circuit breaker shutoff until I find an answer. I this the Control Panel Board? or is there something else I can try? Thanks.
Bat, your model number is right on accurate. Here's the scoop... the F3-E2 means the temp sensor inside the oven cavity needs replacing, but I doubt that your problem is the sensor. The problem is your "microcomputer". I call it an ERC for short. There are 3 separate circuits on your ERC; low voltage for your keypad, medium voltage for the mechanical relays and high voltage for you elements. When you program a cook time/temperature, the ERC translates this into medium voltage and activates the proper relay on the ERC (i.e... "bake", "bake w/ convection", etc...) to send high voltage to the proper component. All of that to say this, the relay on the board that activates the bake element is "welded" shut. When powered off, the relay won't open up! This will result in run-away temps. I've seen this before on Whirlpools. The ERC will have to be replaced, the part number is #8302994 and lists for ~$180.00 at your local appliance parts store. If you need assistance with the replacement procedure, post back. If you decide to get in there without posting back, DISCONNECT POWER AT THE BREAKER PRIOR TO ANY SERVICE.
Posted on Aug 15, 2007
Gotta be the ERC connecting 240 to the element through the relay. Most people aren't aware of this, but even when the unit is functioning properly and the oven is "off", there's still 120V at the element (120V isn't enough to heat the element). The relay adds the other leg to give it 240.
Go with the ERC and you'll be up and running. You should make a "map" of the wires and their positions BEFORE removing them from the old ERC. I use the bottom of the new ERC's box and draw it right there.
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I've tested the relays to the best of my knowledge and they are both "open". I'm still leaning toward the ERC as you call it, though, because I can't think of anything else that controls the elements in the oven. Even if it were the relay activation circuit, that is still on the ERC. Have I got a logical string here?
After replacing the ERC the oven appeared to work buy the burners that wouldn't turn off, now wouldn't turn on. This was the thermal fuse. After replacing that, everything is working good.
I have the same problem except after turning off the power and letting it cool, the burner stayed off when power was turned back on.
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