I had the same problem with my 2 years old infocus lp600. on the mains section of the power supply board you have 4 100uF/16v and 1 4,7uF/35V electrolyt condenser of a 85 degree type. that means it will work 2000 hours at 85 degree (celsius). since the power supply only switch off the lamp in standby with no fan the power supply get hot- i think about 70 degree. so after two years in stanby it is evident that this condensers loose halve of their capacity - after switch off no new start. changing this condensers with new ones of 105 degree type will solve tis problem. and for the future - no more stanby.
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Jeep XJ it is.
the Cluster is a computer. brain,
a stand alone display.
fuse 16 in PDC (cluster memory fuse)
and fuse 9 in JB . runs it. JB is cab fuse box.
so what works in the cluster, all things, but not speed or tacho.
engine runs ok
scan tool show no DTC errors.?
all warning lights in cluster work? at self test key?????
if the PCM can not comm, to the cluster, the cluster
can not show tach or speed, can't , and cant update odometer either
does the odometer roll moving>? i bet not
the cluster is a stand alone unit, with puter brain (processor)
fuel guage work?
if the scan tool shows U codes or C codes and comm errors
that must be addressed first. (cause)
you cant fix cars, with out a $5 scan tool, cant. why not buy one
and use it?
ask how, 1000's of choices here... and more.
I woulld not even venture a guess as to what brand/model/ etc you have. How do you expect us to have any idea to help you?
I will say that a very common problem is if the unit, whatever type it is, has a power adapter, it is COMMON for the plug to work loose... If your unit has a regular cord, then there are likely fuse(s) inside, but if they blow, there is another problem that must be repaired before fuses are replaced.
Does the unit have any lights or displays that show power is on? If nothing is lit, then VERIFY that the cord is plugged in at both ends... ANOTHER problem is that SOME wall receptacles are switched... intended for floor lamps and if one has the switch off the receptacles is dead...
Again, you haven't given us enough info to really help you...
The interior map lamps are powered buy the battery saver relay ( non serviceable relay ) Which is powered by Fuse #25 ( cab fuse panel ). This is for the engine compartment and illuminated vanity lamps, as well as the map lights.
The FET ( Field-Effect Transistor ) shows the fuse #9 also on it. ( marked interior lighting ), which power the interior lamps ( door / switch ).
Could be a few things if both those fuses are OK.
1. The map / interior lamp combos are usually dual element bulbs, which means if the interior lamps ( door or dimer switch on headlamp panel ) are OK, it could still be a burn out bulb.
2. The FET is having an issue from a dead short ( blown bulb or dead short to ground ). Until the short is correct, the FET will not turn back on.
Start with checking Fuse #9 ( marked as Fuse #8 in the diagram, but that shows headlamp ), which is to the interior lamps, and drives 1 side of the FET.
There's a line fuse for these sets inside the radio on a printed circuit
board. NOTE: for your safety, disconnect the radio from its power
source before you open the case and poke around inside. The best way
to check the fuse is with an ohm meter, but you can probably check it
visually using a strong flashlight. There should be a wire filament
running the length of the fuse. If it's intact, so is the fuse. If
it's broken or not visible at all, the fuse is "blown" and needs to be
replaced. If the fuse checks out ok, the power transformer is likely
bad -- a problem that these sets are notorious for. Bose will charge
you $100 for the transformer repair (unless the set is still under
warranty), and having it done is strictly a matter of personal choice.
My choice would be to sell the Bose on eBay as a "tech special" and
pick up one of the newer HD radios. They offer much better sound at a
much lower price.