Wet end is leaking at bottom behind where 8 screw plate is held together below and behind drain screw replaced o ring and worn plastic wear ring it is still leaking
Probably seals are worn behind the impeller. It is recommended to replace the pump motor as well as the wet end. Be sure to get a pump with same 1.5HP, frame size (48 or 56), pipe size (2" or 3") and an XP2e wet end (replaces the XP2).
Option 2 is to replace the XP2 wet end with the XP2e ($60-$80). Make sure the shaft is not rusted to assure a good seal. If you want to replace the seals (online $7-$25), you'll have to remove the wet end and then the impeller which may be difficult. I just figured out how to do this. See "http://www.fixya.com/support/t6782638-remove_impeller_aquaflo". Again, check the shaft for rust.
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Hello - Typically error code E11 indications that there is an issue with the drain valve, possibly the main control board is timing out before receiving status of drain valve. I strongly recommend contacting the technician that repaired your unit previously to check the wiring between the main control board and drain valve. Some certified technicians warranty their labor and part for 30 days.
Most likely leaking from either the shaft seal, or the valute seal (big seal plate o-ring). When you replaced the motor you should have also replaced the shaft seal. If not go back and do that whether it's leaking or not. If you get your head down and look at the bottom of the pump while it's running you should be able to see the water coming from the joint between the seal plate, and the seal plate housing, or just behind that from the bottom of the motor probably from the vent holes in the motor housing. If it's coming from the motor then the shaft seal is leaking, and the water is traveling along the shaft and out the bottom of the motor. This will eventually get into the motor and seize up the bearings. If it's coming from the valute seal, then you need to either replace or re-seat the seal. As a general rule you should always replace the shaft seal, and diffuser and seal plate o-rings when you replace the motor or split the seal. I'm not as familiar with the 2 speed hayward super 2, but the standard super 2's have a small ribbon seal, often called a rubber band. They are infamous for going bad especially after pulling the pump apart.
The 2007 Tundra 5.7l engine doesn't have a spin on filter - it uses a replaceable paper cartridge within a permanent housing. Located under the skid plate on the front-left portion of the engine, the oil filter unit has two coolant hoses, a black plastic screw-in housing, and a large, metal, round screw with a 1/2" square fitting in the middle of it. The cartridge-type oil filter is in the housing.
If equipped with a skid plate, access is accomplished by removing the 5 skid plate bolts, allowing the plate to swing down on integrated hangars (with the front plastic bumper skirt still attached). To completely remove the skid plate, three small screws holding it to the front plastic bumper skirt must also be removed.
Toyotafilter kits contain a new filter cartridge, a plastic drain plug, and two O-rings. The drain plug is used to drain residual oil from the filter unit prior to removing the plastic screw-in housing. After removing the large, metal, round screw with a 1/2" square fitting in the middle of it, the plug simply snaps into the bottom of the plastic housing. The smaller of the two new O-rings replaces the existing O-ring on the screw.
Once drained, the plastic screw-in filter housing is removed using a filter wrench (Toyota special service tool). The larger of the two new O-rings replaces the existing O-ring on the screw-in housing. VERY CLOSE ATTENTION must be paid in placing the new O-ring - failure to properly seat the new O-ring could result in a massive oil leak!
The filter itself is currently only available from Toyota.
Remove the bucket and clear it completely out you will have to rotate the bar to clear out the crushed ice and snow I have had to run warm water through mine and then let it sit out to dry. Good luck its a pain Hope this helps Lezette
Hi,
It would have been great if you mentioned the model. These required the use of a T-9 Torx driver. The location of the screws are underneath the small rubber pads on the four (4) corners plus one center top. The panel and the back cover snaps together and needs to be pried apart using a thin spatula type tool to separate. It helps to have another of this tool to keep the side/areas already parted from snapping back together while working on the other side.
The hinge could either be part of the LCD bracket or attached to it. There would be no less than 3 screws holding the upper part. In some models the bottom part is slide in with two (2) screws at the rear of the laptop itself. In some instances, the rectangular panel above the keyboard has likewise to be removed. Some have screws some are just snap together.
In important note is not to bunch the screws together. Often they come in different lengths or threads.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information
Thank you for contacting Fixya.com
The heater core inside the passenger compartment is leaking. The water is draining through the Air Conditioner condensor drain tube. Don't plug the drain tube, the passenger side floor will get wet.
First, drain cooling system (or be quick) and disconnect the two heater hoses that are going into the firewall and splice the ends together with a 5/8" garden hose splicer.
The leak will stop, but your heater will not heat the interior.
Solution for GE Spacemaker Ovens (my model is JVM1650BH05)
1- Remove door by lifting it out of hinges. You will need to remove grille first (2 set screws). 2- Carefully pry off the plastic inside door trim. Use a fine knife or putty knife. There are 10 tabs holding the trim from behind. It's OK if you break a tab! Try to pull out as straight as possible. 3- Once the trim is off, remove the 2 visible screws that hold the door handle. NOTE: There are 2 invisible screws so you are not done yet! 4- You now need to remove the metal ring that holds the latches. To do that, grab the metal ring and using your other hand, release each plastic tab one by one (same tabs as above). 5- Once the metal ring is loose, you will see 2 screws. Remove them if they are still there. 6- Position your new handle and attach using the first 2 screws. 7- Reposition the metal ring by re-snapping it in place. Install the other 2 screws. 8- Replace the plastic trim by snapping it back in place 9- Reinstall door and grille. Tell wife or hubby that you are a genius!
Bonus: use metal washers when screwing down the 2 first screws.
The problem you describe is common but without knowing the make/model I can only answer in broad terms. Water in the fridge section is almost always caused by a clogged defrost drain. Service is different depending on the mfgs but commonly the drain gets clogged by ice or some foreign object. For ice jams, on brands like GE or Whirlpool a "heat transfer device" is available which clamps on the heater and extends into the drain, providing extra heat to allow drainage without refreezing. For solid items, blowing back on the end of the drain hose in the drain at the bottom with compressed air works wonders.
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