This Dehumidifier won't turn on. The lights on the control panel will not come on at all. I have traced the power to the circuit board in the unit and it is fine. I do not have a parts or trouble shooting manual. Looking for links to manuals and information on how to troubleshoot.
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Re: Fedders Dehumidifier - Wont Turn On
Looks like a control board, Check the board for burn marks. What model do you have? Some parts are available on-line at appliance factory parts.. also check your Capacitor and fan motor before you install your new Board..Let me know if this helps?
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as there are two control boards in ac units ( split systems) and one in a window unit
it could be the inside board ( they do not suffer power surges to well or vermin infestations at all )
before you waste more money I suggest that you get a technician in to determine the fault and if parts are readily available.
I'd say you're right on target. In which case, although the unit was manufactured my Whirlpool for Sears under their house brand, Kenmore. You can find the part(s) online at Sears Parts Central http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action . If you can do the replacement yourself, you'll really save $$ on labor.
First, check the outlet that it's plugged into, to make sure that there's still power to the outlet. If there isn't, then the circuit breaker for that outlet has been tripped, in your home's circuit breaker panel. Leave the dehumidifier unplugged and reset the circuit breaker. If it trips again, without the dehumidifier unplugged, then the outlet is at fault. Perhaps there's a loose wire connection or the interior of the outlet is cracked.
If it didn't trip without the dehumidifier plugged in, plug the unit it in,. But, before you do, make sure the dehumidifier's Master ON/OFF Switch is OFF. Once it's plugged in, turn the Master ON/OFF Switch to ON and set your controls. If it runs now, GREAT! If it trips the circuit breaker again, there's either a short in the power cord or an internal electrical short. Which will require extensive troubleshooting to find.
Hope this helps you solve the problem. Please let me know. Thanks.
The Zenith ZD30 is made by LG as many other brands are also. There is a fuse located on the control board. That may have blown. I have also had 3 LG units come into my shop with bad control boards. If the fuse is ok. Measure the ohms at the power plug L1 to Neutral, with the unit unplugged. It should read around 430 ohms. The ones with bad boards read real high. Hope this helps.
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I took my dehumidifier apart and I found why the unit no longer would start.
First, there is a fuse inside the metal compartment that houses the control circuit board. However, the fuse was not blown. Instead I found the relay that controls the compressor, (circuit diagram calls it RY-COMP) was not functioning and was left in the open position. The relay must switch the compressor on/off based on humidity, full water hopper, and maybe other factors like temperature.
The RY-COMP is a large black plastic component on the circuit board with two wires (blue and black) connected at the top. I tested the contacts and they remained open when starting up the dehumidifier. Doing a small bit of rewiring so that the blue and black wire were connected and also wired to RY-COMP terminal 3, the dehumidifier came back to life. However, this is good for proving what broke but without an electronic control to cycle the unit on and off and to halt when the water hopper is full it's not a valuable alternative and it risks a burnout of the compressor from constant use.
I think the RY-COMP relay is a solid state relay which could have gone bad from a spike in voltage when plugging the unit in or cycling on/off.
I certainly don't want to buy another unit where the circuitry is not robust enough to survive plugging in every couple weeks. I was thinking I could try replacing the relay with a magnet relay which would probably survive spikes much better.
This dehumidiifier has an inherent design problem. There is a control printed-circuit board mounted above the cold coil, sitting in a shallow plastic well. The moist air eventuall condenses in the well and shorts out the board. I have found this on 2 units now. You can order a new board on line and it installs with just push on wire connectors. That will fix the unit but I suggest you mount the new board with longer screws and spacers to raise it out of the well.
This reply does not solve the problem, however my MAYTAG M7DH
45B2A DEHUMIDIFIER had the same problem.
Circuit Board COR 268BV1.O had circuits burned (on lower side of
board). The circuits that showed signs of arching were the right end
of D1, D 2, D3, D4, and at C2, C3, C4, C5, J1, O1,.
Apparently water must have entered the area and shorted these circuits. But I do not know. The only alternative is to replace circuit
board or junk it