Water not heating

Well it is a drain blockage code. Check the pipe. I had a blockage caused by the stalk off an apple and an accumulation of lint!

Miele Dishwasher Error Code = Fault code F11 (Drainage) = Water not draining away. Cause Of Error/Fault Code = Filter combination in the cabinet is blocked.Jun 30, 2016

Miele Dishwasher Error Codes Display & Light Indicator Codes

Videos as well

https://www.google.com/search?q=Miele+dishwasher+shows+code+F11

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E3 - Water heating time out or fault

The dishwasher has failed to heat with water in a reasonable time or has failed to detect the water heating element.

Check water heating element wiring
Check water heating element
Check wiring to main control module

Dado

Thought dishwasher got hot water intake.

Hello

The majority of dishwashers are not connected to hot water from the mains but heat up the water internally using the heating element, located in the tub of the dishwasher, controlled by a thermostat. When the dishwasher has a fault with heating, the program will run but not complete and will show an error code on the display panel. Dishes won't be cleaned properly and the detergent won't dissolve.

If your dishwasher does bring in hot water externally from the mains to check the water is warm and there are no problems with the inlet. If the dishwasher heats internally then it is most likely a faulty heating element or thermostat. A fault like this will usually require a replacement part and a repair, but you can check the heating element with a voltmeter to ensure that it is the cause of the problem before calling out for a service engineer.

Hello

The majority of dishwashers are not connected to hot water from the mains but heat up the water internally using the heating element, located in the tub of the dishwasher, controlled by a thermostat. When the dishwasher has a fault with heating, the program will run but not complete and will show an error code on the display panel. Dishes won't be cleaned properly and the detergent won't dissolve.

If your dishwasher does bring in hot water externally from the mains to check the water is warm and there are no problems with the inlet. If the dishwasher heats internally then it is most likely a faulty heating element or thermostat. A fault like this will usually require a replacement part and a repair, but you can check the heating element with a voltmeter to ensure that it is the cause of the problem before calling out for a service engineer.

hi...
If the cycle doesn't complete, check these....
Water-heating cycle Many dishwashers heat the wash and/or rinse water to a higher temperature, as the cycle calls for it. In these cycles, the dishwasher pauses after it has filled with water, waiting for the water to reach the pre-set temperature. What happens next, depends, as follows:

• On some units, the pause is timed and the unit continues after the allotted time.



• On others, the cycle can't continue until the water reaches the higher temperature. If you have this type of dishwasher and the water isn't being heated (say, because of a problem with the heating element or thermostat), after the unit stops at the heating cycle, it never continues. When you repair the heating-system problem, the "cycle problem" is fixed too.

Timer Timers don't often fail. But if every other part of the dishwasher seems to be working properly and the timer knob seems to be stuck in one place--doing one function continuously--the timer may be at fault. Dishwasher timers can't be repaired. If yours is defective, replace it.

if still it doesn't fix your problem then see whether any error codes are generated....
F1 Water heating fault, selected temperature not reached within 60 minutes · Incoming water temperature too cool
· Heating element burned out
· Thermostat defective F2 High water level · Plugged/Bad water pump
· Defective water inlet valve F3 Thermistor fault · Open thermistor
· Bad wiring to thermistor F4 Fault with water fill (only on machines with level-controlled fill)

Note: Lights blinking, pump running and controls dead indicates an over fill fault 1. Disconnect the power to the unit

2. Remove the lower access panels and check the tray under the dishwasher (you will probably find it is full of water)

3. Use a towel or a sponge to remove the water

4. There is a float that should stop the operation of the dishwasher and run the pump if water is in this tray. Check this pump to see if it is functional

5. Test the dishwasher

6. If there are no leaks from the dishwasher into the pan, check the drain hose under the sink

7. THE DRAIN HOSE MUST RUN UP TO THE TOP OF THE UNDERSIDE OF THE COUNTERTOP THEN DOWN TO THE DRAIN. (If the hose is not set up like this, water from the sink drain will flow into the dishwasher and overfill the tray

*Faults may vary by model. Use this as a general guide.
i think these details would definitely help you.....thank you...

BAD CONTROL BOARD TO TEST TO SEE IF THIS IS THE ISSUE RUN TEST PROGRAM
To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by
pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ “20” = version 0 without jumper). When
wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.
To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and
REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display
alone). Cycle Countdown display will show "88" when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and "8h" when Delay Start
button is pressed.
To start testing, press both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended,
Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added
together, (e.g./ “6” = faults 2 + 4).
0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault
1 = Aqua Sensor ("Sensotronic") fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil,
measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays
at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "4" and unit will continually fill and drain where
testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show "0", water won't heat (to 150ºF) and
water won’t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "8" immediately and
testing will end shortly after water has started circulating

Hi,
Check your heating element..

Dishwasher Problems The Heating Element not Working
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4589033-dishwasher_problems_heating_element_not

Dishwasher Maintenance
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4319937-dishwasher_maintenance

heatman101

two things to check
check continuity thru heater
remove outer door panel and check for faults in wiring loom
get back to me is these are both ok

f is fill fault to much or not enough water or water in the sump white plastic base the f code will not go away until you solve the problem when the f code shows up the drain motor will run all of the time