C50 olympus power up

This can be occurred because of several different reasons.
You can find the cause of the error code at below.
http://www.normsweb.com/tektips/panjvc.shtml

You can download a manual for the OM-1 from
http://butkus.org/chinon/olympus/olympus_om-1/olympus_om-1.htm

The OM-1MD is the same camera as the OM-1 with the added provision for taking a motor drive to advance the film automatically.

The OM-1n is the same as the OM-1MD with a redesigned film advance lever, a flash ready/sufficient flash LED in the viewfinder, and automatic X-sync regardless of the position of the FP/X switch, when it is used with a T-series flash unit mounted on Flash Shoe 4.

Sorry to say as per your info may be you make some mistake to give power supply. High voltage and your camera transformer rosted. Batter visit service center.

Thanks, i am waiting for your feed back & if you satisfied then thumps me please.

SLR cameras are meant to be used with the viewfinder, not live view. Live View on SLR's is a luxury that point and shoot users have come to expect, sadly. I suggest you start using the viewfinder and disregard the live view altogether, since it doesn't always give you an accurate representation of what the photo will turn out like, and it consumes battery power at a ridiculous rate.

OM-20 was basically a upgraded OM-10 with the manual adapter built in and a number of other refinements.

The viewfinder has LED's to show the shutter speed recommended by the camera's lightmeter for the ISO and aperture selected. It also has an exposure compensation indicator (the +/- symbol) and an indicator for flash ready which doubles up as a post-exposure flash confirmation. There is also the indicator lamp to show manual mode has been selected. OM-10 lacks the manual mode lamp and the +/- indicator.

Like the OM-10, the OM-20 is primarily an aperture priority automatic camera. In this mode you set the ISO film speed, choose which aperture you wish to use (with the ability to use the lens depth of field preview button) and then the camera selects the correct shutter speed. The +/- exposure compensation control allows the user to tell the camera to modify the recommended shutter speed by up to two stops either way.

In manual mode, there is no manual metering. The light meter behaves exactly as it does in aperture priority mode and the viewfinder shows the recommended shutter speed and not the manually selected one. Correct metering is therefore a case of adjusting the aperture first, and then choosing the correct shutter speed indicated in the viewfinder. If the user then decides to select a different shutter speed, then the aperture ring must be adjusted to maintain the correct exposure. For example the aperture is set to f8 and the camera recommends 1/60th of a second. The user decides that a faster shutter speed is required and chooses 1/250th, but the viewfinder remains showing 1/60th. In order to keep the same exposure value the user must open the aperture by two full stops to f4. The camera's light meter will detect the new aperture setting and providing the light on the object is unchanged the viewfinder shutter speed display should now show 1/250th as well to confirm the correct adjustment. Alternatively, the user can choose the shutter speed first by looking at what has been set on the control ring (or by turning the ring to the end of its travel and then counting the clicks from there as all experienced OM users do) and then turning the aperture ring until the shutter speed shown in the viewfinder matches what's been manually set.

It all sounds clumsy and complex but is done far more quickly than I've taken to type this and becomes second nature.

Aperture priority metering is selected on the camera by choosing AUTO on the mode selecter. In this mode the shutter speed ring has no effect and the viewfinder always displays the automatically selected shutter speed.

The flash is malfunctioning and causing the camera to not work, the flashing lights in the viewfinder is the camera indicating the malfunction. Most likely it is a board that needs repair and that'll cost a flat rate minimum $160 from OLY.

you left it too long for a free replacement
But it is worth contacting Olympus as it is know this one was a lemon.

This may be a dumb idea... but did you accidentally turn the screen off? Don't ask how I know this...

I'm having the exact same problem. I was in the middle of zooming on a shot and it froze, so I turned the camera off and on, and now I get the 5-chimes+Zoom Error screen. This is nuts, I've only had the thing for six months, and it was $250 (got the Stylus 730). I *think* I got a replacement plan so that's good. But still... I hope circuit city lets me get a different brand b/c I'm not happy with this now. The only problem I had before was the HORRID shutter delay. I want a model that doesn't have that problem .

Try for a repair Mark but I feel that it is probably to be considered beyond economic repair - the price will be pretty near a later one