Question about Ariston Technologies LL64WNA Built-in Dishwasher

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Ariston LS600A Hi I have now tested the level switch as it was running by blowing into it. It definately switching. Any other ideas?

Posted by woodsy08 on

  • woodsy08 Aug 13, 2007

    When i turn on the dishwasher the pump starts empties the excess water, but then carries on. No water enters the dishwasher at all. I have checked the pipes etc and i think the first soleniod valve my be damaged. Could i be right? On the valve is 240vac on both sides but no water after the valve.

  • woodsy08 Aug 14, 2007

    Hi
    Ive checked the valve, seems clean and there is 3.6Kohms on a resistive test, seems not to be this. I wounder if it is that pressure switch you spock of. I did force it by blowing into it but i wounder if the sesativity of it is not enough? Can i adjust these switches?

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Dov Dror

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What exactly is your problem ?

Posted on Aug 13, 2007

  • Dov Dror Aug 14, 2007

    You can easily apart the soleniod valve and clean it (from scale or other dirt). Be aware you should unplug the power cable from machine before doing it !!!!
    Check as well for valve's coil resistance. In case you have no resistance measurement - you should replace it for a new one.

    Good luck!

  • Dov Dror Aug 14, 2007

    Did you disconnected one of the wires connected to the soleniod while measuring its resistance ?
    In case of a positive answer, you should open again the soleniod and clean it from any scale !!!!

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Water will not shut run over in tank


There are four possible failures that can cause overflow. Typical water level switches have a diaphragm that operates the electrical switch when air pressure behind the diaphragm is sufficient to actuate the switch lever. The air pressure chamber is connected to a port on the tub with a plastic hose. As the water level in the tub rises above the level of the port, it increases the pressure in the hose.
The four failure modes related to the water level switch are a stuck switch, a leak in the diaphragm, a cracked or hardened hose, or a clogged port in the tub. You can quickly narrow down the problem by detaching the hose from the switch, attaching another short piece of hose to the switch, then blowing into this hose while the washer is filling. You should be able to stop the fill and make the washer start the agitate cycle doing this (if you have healthy lungs). If this works, then you have a poor seal in the hose or a clogged port. Try blowing into the original hose going down to the port (with the washer empty. If you get a lot of resistance, followed by a decrease, you have just blown out a blockage. If you get no resistance, you will have to open the washer look for a crack in the hose. (If the end of the hose at the switch is hardened or split, that is your problem.)
Note: be careful when you do these tests. There may be exposed electrical terminals in the control panel when you have it open. Unplug the machine before putting your hands into the panel, and be careful not to touch any terminals when testing the switch. If you have a multimeter and know how to measure continuity, it is more convenient and safer to use this to test the switch with the machine unplugged rather than the live test.

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1 Answer

Water keep run and it overflows,dosnt start


The water level control isn't working. First, I'll describe how it's supposed to work, then give you the troubleshooting steps for a top-loading machine.

There is a port on the side of the outer tub somewhere below the low water level point. A plastic hose (usually transparent) runs from this port to the water level switch. As the water rises, it compresses the air inside the tube. This air exerts pressure on a diaphragm which operates the level switch. The trip point for the switch is set by a cam connected to the level selector knob.

Failure points: broken or leaky hose, clogged tub port, ruptured diaphragm, stuck or broken switch.

First, unplug the machine. Remove screws on the back of the control panel if it appears they hold it to the back panel of the machine. Remove screws from the front trim at the bottom of the control panel. Now you should be able to tilt the panel forward to get at the backside of the water level control.

Inspect the hose connection on the back of the water level control and repair if it appears it could be leaky (for example, hardened and loose or cracked).

You can test the switch by detaching the hose and blowing into the port if the switch is set to the lowest level setting. You should be able to trip it with moderate air pressure, not much more than you use to blow a balloon (literally several inches of water, to use a common pressure measurement scale). The best test is to attach an ohmmeter or continuity tester to the switch leads to verify operation - one terminal is common and goes to power, one terminal is normally closed and goes to the water valves, and the remaining terminal goes to the timer. However, if you can hear or feel the switch click when you blow into the port, it is probably good.

Next, gently tug on the hose where it goes down into the machine. It should be attached at the other end! Try firing some compressed air (about 5-10 psi) into the hose to blow out any clogs. Reassemble and test the machine. If it still overflows, you'll have to open the top to inspect the tub connection.

Note: I once worked on a machine that was clogged with a bacterial film inside the port. The customer used well water with only basic particle filtration. There was also bacterial buildup in the hose inlet screens, so I advised the customer to add an anti-bacterial filter to the plumbing to prevent a recurrence of the problem, and suggested doing a no-clothes soak with bleach to clear out the rest of the little beasties.

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hi
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1 Answer

NO WATER LEVEL CONTROL. OVERFLOWS.


Most level controls are a simple Diaphragm switch, and usually quite visible when you pull the back cover plate off.

The diaphragm switch will have a small rubber tube connected between it, and a plumbing connection at the base of the bowl-- As the water level rises, air is compressed against the diaphragm-- until the pressure tells the switch mechanism to shut off the water coming in.

Can you locate these items?-- Can you make sure that the rubber hose is unobstructed? (Maybe by pulling it off from the switch, and blowing thru it?
Testing the switch, can you blow GENTLY!! on the switch, and hear a 'click'?
Can you test the switch to see if it changes from 'open to closed' or visa versa, as you hear the click? ('TESTING' -- As with a continuity tester?)
Or maybe a wire is off the terminals?
Check out these details, and get back with us.

Mack B

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1 Answer

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HI. This will be a defective water pressure switch. Use the procedure below to inspect this switch for faults. Replace the switch, if needed.

HI, the water level switch(aka pressure switch), is responsible for regulating the water fill level in this situation. It does this through a plastic tube which runs from the switch in the control console down to the side of the outer tub, near the bottom . The tube is filled with air. As water enters the tub it also enters the tube. As water climbs inside the tube, it pushes on the air trapped inside and increases the air pressure. When the air pressure reaches a certain level, it triggers the switch.

I would advise to Inspect the air tube for kinks, breaks or damage. The tube should also be free of water. The tubing should be securely connected to the bottom of the outer tub and to the bottom of the water level switch. If there is water present, the switch must be replaced.

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The switch location will be just behind the main control sector, or near the inlet valve. It will be the only switch with a small hose running into its housing.

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The following parts must be tested:


Check the inlet hose at the back of the appliance. Ensure that is not kinked or blocked.


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If you need to call a technician ring the number listed on the owners manual.


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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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