Ariston LS600A Hi I have now tested the level switch as it was running by blowing into it. It definately switching. Any other ideas?

WARNING: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DISMANTLE YOUR MACHINE UNLESS YOU ARE COMPETENT TO DO SO.
ALWAYS DISCONNECT FROM THE MAINS SUPPLY AND TURN OFF THE WATER BEFOREHAND.
The fault might be due to a failed level switch or blockage in the level tube. If you can get at it, remove the tube and run water through it to flush out any debris; replace the tube and try again. If it still gives a false signal, and you know what you're doing, bridge the connections to the level switch, and if the warning light goes out, you need to replace the level switch.

Washer fills with water and overflows:

The water pressure level switch is a pressure activated switch that is used to determine the correct water level in the tub. This part is normally located behind the control panel and will have a hose or air dome tube that connects it to the tub. On washers that use an electronic control, this switch may be located at the sump area below the tub. As the water fills in the tub it will compress the air in the tube and push against a diaphragm inside the switch. The switch will control the water inlet valve and turn the valve off at the correct water level. If the tube has a leak, not enough pressure may be created to activate the switch and the washer may overfill. If the switch is defective it may also cause the machine to overfill. To determine if the switch is bad, you should first eliminate the air dome hose as a problem. Look for signs of cracks or worn areas on the hose. Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well. If the air dome hose appears to be ok, then the water level switch may be defective.

You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube.
If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good
( No wash- then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED).

The other item to check would be your water inlet valve. Check it for continuity with a multi meter it should show Ohms or a closed circuit. To test it when water is overflowing unplug the unit and see if it still overflows or continues to fill. If it stops when unplugged. Then it is not a water inlet problem but an electrical signal problem going to ur water inlet valve. Possibly from the panel or board. You can also do a live volt test to see if it is getting the full 120 current, but be sure to unplug unit before testing as this is a live test.
Also another trick to check the water valve, is to first cut the water off and remove the hoses off the back of the washer. Then one at a time point the hoses inside the washer tub and turn the water back on. If you don't have good water pressure, turn the water back off and remove the strainer that should be in one end of the hose. Inspect the strainer to see if it is stopped up, clean it and reinstall it. Now repeat this test. If you have good water pressure now, reinstall hose and your problem is fixed

By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

hi
I think the problem is on when the key is turn to rotate and to engage the starter motor and it at this point that the cable curring the current on to the starter motor it then the fuse gets blown , in my opinion this cable is shortening across the chassis causing the fuse to blow, or when it get to the starter solenoid a faulty solenoid absorbs accessed electric current causing the fuse to blow

F10 - Pressure switch not sensing correctly. blow in to switch gently it should click. blow into pipe should be clear.

If you live in an area where the water is hard check the rubber hose to the barometric pressure switch. If it is loose from the tank or clogged(more likely) it will cause overflow. With the machine filling unplug the power cord, if water stops the water valve is good. The line to the baro switch connects to the back of the water level(baro)switch inside the control panel. Remove the plastic ine from the baro switch and blow down it like you are trying to fill a baloon. If you can not blow down it then it is clogged and you will have to unhook it and clean out the end where it connects to the tank. If it blows out ok then find a short pice of rubber hose connect one end to the baro switch, turn to lowest water setting and blow on it like before you should hear the baro switch click. If it dosent then it will need to be replaced.

syphon out the water by getting the end of the drain hose into a basin and putting it lower than the water level. a few shakes usually gets it flowing. you probably have a short circuit. my guess would be the heater box/element to start.

hi On many dishwashers, the latch engages a switch to activate the timer and other control components. If the latch is not completely engaged or if the switch is faulty, the machine will not operate. Here's how to test and repair a door switch:

Step 1: Latch the door and hold the latch tightly in the closed position. This works best on a unit with a lever-type latch. Then turn the control to the ON position. If the unit works, the problem is probably a misaligned lock unit. Adjust the lock unit with a screwdriver. If this doesn't solve the problem, the switch may be faulty.

Step 2: Test the switch with a volt-ohm-milliammeter (VOM) set to the RX1 scale. Remove the panel covering the door switch and remove one of the electrical lead wires of the switch from its terminals. Clip one probe of the VOM to each switch terminal and shut the dishwasher's door. If the meter reads zero, the switch is working. If the meter reads higher than zero, the switch is faulty and should be replaced.

Step 3: Replace the switch with a new one of the same type. Connect the new switch the same way the old one was connected.

Try Cleaning your filter under the front of the washer it probably has coins and other wonderfull stuff which can cause the clicking issue.

Regards Ed

Unplug the power cable, remove the service panel and follow the next steps : - Remove one of the wires connected to the heating element and check with a multi-meter the element's resistance. In case you can't read any result,you should replace the element. - Check the water level switch- The switch level is usually a diaphragm device with a small clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub.Clear tube first from any obstruction, In case it doesn't help, disconnect the wires from the and measure with a multi-meter on its tugs for continuity and disconnection while you are inhale and blow to its tube. In case it doesn't react, you should replace it. - Control panel - look for loose wires. If you think that your main control PCB timer have failed, you may be able to get it tested, and if faulty, get a re-worked (repaired one) much cheaper than a new one. Good luck !

Since, the pump doesn't stop working, it sound like a water level switch issue. The switch level is usually a diaphragm device with a small clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. I am not familiar with this specific machine, but if you will open the rear panel you will find it easily. Clear tube first from any obstruction, In case it doesn't help, disconnect the wires from the unit (you should disconnect first machine's power cable !!!!!) and measure with a multi-meter on its tugs for continuity and disconnection while you are inhale and blow to its tube. In case it doesn't react, you should replace it. Good luck !