Pr600 shunts over on big designs

Is this happening only when you stitch a particular design/pattern? If so, the issue could be an error originating in the design. Sometimes designs are digitized on commercial software with commands intended for industry machines and when the design gets converted to a home format like PES via various conversion programs, the command gets misunderstood. Try reconverting the design again, or contact the digitizer of the design and request they review the design for any errors and create a new PES file for you. Note, there are 10 versions of PES at this time and your machine should be able to read PES version 4 without issues.

check with your authorized Brother dealer for advice.

Isn't your fabirc big enough to hoop it vertically, but stitch it
horizontally?
Do you own a Singer PSW? Easy to edit with this program.
Or you should be able to do in your Singer XL-6000 conversion tools.
Failing that you can rotate a design in the machine itself, simply on the machine by touching the hoop tab on the touch screen (second icon from the right) and then selecting the rotate icon (second from the top) then rotate the design?
Although I have known some designs to not rotate - due to the needle positions during the sewing and jumping process.
Hope some of these ideas are helpful to you.

Both the 7560 and the 7570 will only stitch out to the largest hoop it came with which is a 120 x 115 CM hoop (approx 4 1/4 x 4 3/4 inches). If you are using the Creative Big Fantasy Hoop or a Hoop-it-All you will need to split out the design so that each piece will fit within the 120 x 115 hoop. Transfer both designs to the machine. If using the original hoop, hoop your fafabric and stitch out the 1st design. Unhoop and rehoop again aligning the fabric with the hash marks on the hoop. You will have to move the design around on the screen to make a perfect fit. Stitch out the 2nd design. If you are using the Creative Big Fantasy hoop, you just have to hoop the fabric once, stitch out the 1st design and loosen the side screw on the hoop and slide the hoop into place for the 2nd design. Stitch out the 2nd design. The same process applied to the Hoop-it-All.

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Your machine will only recognize the 5x7 hoop. The giga hoop is two 5x7 hoops next to each other. When you pull up the design on the screen it will show 2 hoops. Each hoop will be one half of the design. One design will be upside down from the other. That's the way it should be. After stitching out one side of the design, turn the hoop, and stitch the upside down part.

If the design isn't too big, try rotating it in the hoop and stitch it sideways. If it works in that position, you probably should have the embroidery unit cleaned. I recommend the embroidery unit be serviced every 5 years. It may need it more often depending on your environment.

Mine was skipping stitches. Turned out to be a bent needle! Now it is working great!

From what I have been able to find out about this model, the embroidery area is limited to 4 x 4.

A larger hoop cannot change the built-in configuration of the machine's computer.

You can use a larger hoop, stitch out what you can and then re-hoop to finish - this is not easy to do.

Measuring the distance between the letters and then centering the last letter to match the previous stitching can be done, but it takes a little practice.

You can make a template using tear away stabilizer.

Stitch out the first 5 letters. Carefully remove the stabilizer - this is going to be a portion of the template.

Hoop another sheet of tear-away and stitch out the last 5 letters (these will partially overlap the first 5 when finished). Remove as in the first step.

Overlap the two templates (tape them together) and this should help you align the letters when you have to re-hoop.

Testing and a bit of practice is how I do it.

There is editing software for splitting designs and if you are interested - check Embird as it seems to be the most reasonable.

The embroidery area is programed into the embroidery machine to be a certain maximum area.

If your machine is limited to 4 x 4, then this is the maximum that can be stitched.

However, there are options. One is software to split the design into two or more sections that will fit within the limitations of the EM.

You have to stitch each section, re-hooping each time, or if your machine will accept a re-positionable hoop, this may save re-hooping.

Embird is a very popular brand that many home embroiderers used.

If you do a search, you will be able to sign up for a free trial of this software.

The plus hoop is a multi positional hoop that allows you you to embroider designs up to 4" x 6". It is essential for monogramming and lettering using your Rose. The Rose hooping system is the same as the 1+, the Scandinavia 300 and 400.

The designs you use must be formatted for the plus hoop. That is, the design has already been divided into two or three elements. Each element is an individual design. For instance, say the design is a long stemmed rose. It would probably be divided something like this: design 1: the flower and the top part of the stem, design 2: The middle part of the stem and the leaves, design 3: the bottom part of the stem.

You would hoop up your fabric to be embroidered, attach the hoop to the machine, set the hoop to position 1, select design 1, stitch out design 1, set the hoop to position 2, select design 2, stitch out design 2, set the hoop to position 3, select design 3, stitch out design 3. You should have a complete design when you're done and everything should match up perfectly!

The hoop is divided up into three squares, 4" x 4". Position 1 square overlaps position 2 square and position 2 square overlaps position 3 square. This overlapping allows the designs to stitch out more smoothly.

I hope this helps. Let me know if you have further questions. Carrie