The switch has broken on my camera (without provocation) and, rather than trying to jam it closed with a bit of wood, I'd rather open up the camera and solder the contacts closed. Has anybody deactivated their camera in this way? Instructions/potential pitfalls welcome.
I had the same problem after a little plastic trigger thing fell out of
the hole above where it says push to eject. After poking around for a
while I took the
camera apart (remove 7 screws) which made it much easier to see, with a
magnifying glass and lamp, what the problem was. A damaged wire that
needed to be connected to something. Only the very end of the wire was
visible, inside a small white plastic box thing. The plastic box thing
eventually fell apart with my attempts to put in bits of wire of
varying shapes. When it came loose I was left with a short stiff bit of
wire. I took a strand of copper wire (from an old piece of electrical
wire), twisted it so I had a small loop at one end, looped it over the
end of the stiff bit of wire, and then curved the rest of the wire
(about 3 - 4 cm long) so it was resting on a silver piece of metal just
below where the white plastic box had been. Put the cover back on and
the camera worked. Needless to say, it won't let me know if I've left
the cover off, but then it won't work unless the cover is on, so it
doesn't seem to matter. Saved about $100.
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Sorry. It is broken. The lens was most likely jammed on start up when trying to open or close when shutting down. The really bad news is that the cost to repair it is close to the cost of a new camera. (I have had several like this, casio, sony canon, nikon and olympus.)
Your lens mechanism is most likely broken. The tiny plastic gears in these things break or strip out easily with impact. On rare occasion you can jockey the lens back into place without damage, which at this point is worth a try, but don't cross your fingers! One solution is to find a donor camera on auction that has a broken lcd screen... use one or the other as a donor and transplant the lcd or the lens mechanism (whichever is easier to get at) into the other. I've done this for less than $30, but takes a fair bit of work. If it's a popular camera, you may have to get competitive on your bidding even on the broken cams. :) Good luck!
take a small piece of wood 1"x 3" x about 4" long and place inside door jam at hinge , slowly close door until it puts pressure on wood,... push door shut gently and remove wood and try shutting door , this is what they call redneck auto body. to do it right you will need to remove hinge and add washers to back side of hinge plate so it moves hinge out thus pushing door alignment back if hinge is welded on add washers to door side where hinges attach to door.
There is a switch that is activated/deactivated by the opening/closing of the trunk deck, it works the same way the door jam switch works when you open/close one of the cabin doors. The switch in the trunk compartment is bad and you will need to replace it.
Ours did the same thing. There is a switch that malfunctions - if you open up the back you'll see a connector with 4 metal springloaded pins on the removable back section, that matches up to a little plate with four metal bits in the back of the printer.
The bit of circuit board with the pins on gets loose in its moorings I unscrewed the removable back section and used some bits of business card type cardboard between the circuit board bit and the plastic casing to wedge it more securely in place. Now it works - good luck with yours!
Unfortunately, you have to force the battery door (very carefully) to open it, and find what is wrong with it.
It is more likely that when closed the battery door, it was forced and it slided out of one guide channels.
You need to practice a little bit before to try it with force (genlty but with firm force), but the only way to do it is slide the button to open it, and at the same time slide to the side and pull the battery door, everything at the same time. Try it until you are able to open it.
Using any kind of tool (such a plastic pry tool, a small screwdriver, etc) to force will leave marks in the housing, and it's very possible that the plastic locking tabs will break, causing that you will open it, but unable to close properly again.
The switch is a micro switch that is depressed(and not sad :)) by a plastic tag moulded on the battery cover. Once the cover is moved into position and closed, the tag presses on the micro switch closing the switch and thus removing the error message. As with any switch, a switch is simply open or closed, Open = high resistance or O/L, while closed = 0 ohms reistance. You can use a small wire to overcome the switch by soldering the wire to both tags of the switch so it is permenantly 0 ohms. This will send a message to the microprocessor that cover is closed and camera ready for use. Hope this helps.
What door or cover is the display showing that it is opened? I would look to see if there is any thing that looks broken on any one of the doors. They have on them little tabs that act as a inter lock device to close a switch. Also, look to see if all the doors close easy without forceing it. try to cheat the doors with a pen or a piece of paper to see which door is not closing. Most of the time a switch or sensor is behind a **** on the inside covers. I would start with retracing the last time you removed a paper jam.
Look for the switch on the memory card door of your camera. Usually a small piece of plastic on the door closes the switch when the door is closed. Check to make sure that the plastic piece is not worn down and is making contact with the switch. You can confirm that this is the problem by powering on the camera while closing the switch manually with a toothpick. Make sure you keep your fingers clear of the extending lens while doing this. If the plastic is worn down or broken off, try attaching a small piece of scrap plastic with super glue.
First, try shutting off, and unplugging the printer to do a reset on the micro & logic circuitry.
If you actually have broken switch or lever which actuates the switch, then an obvious solution is to replace said broken part. Or, if indeed a switch, you could possible bypass & defeat the switch so it doesn't sense the door open.
If this is an actual mechanical switch bypass is fairly simple. You will need to find out if the non-fault (normal operation) condition is either an Open or closed switch and either short across the switch contacts (closed) or pull a wire off (open).
If desperate to get the printer running, bypass the switch, use the printer, and get a replacement part ordered in the meantime, then install the new part to restore proper operation.