The switch has broken on my camera (without provocation) and, rather than trying to jam it closed with a bit of wood, I'd rather open up the camera and solder the contacts closed. Has anybody deactivated their camera in this way? Instructions/potential pitfalls welcome.
I had the same problem after a little plastic trigger thing fell out of
the hole above where it says push to eject. After poking around for a
while I took the
camera apart (remove 7 screws) which made it much easier to see, with a
magnifying glass and lamp, what the problem was. A damaged wire that
needed to be connected to something. Only the very end of the wire was
visible, inside a small white plastic box thing. The plastic box thing
eventually fell apart with my attempts to put in bits of wire of
varying shapes. When it came loose I was left with a short stiff bit of
wire. I took a strand of copper wire (from an old piece of electrical
wire), twisted it so I had a small loop at one end, looped it over the
end of the stiff bit of wire, and then curved the rest of the wire
(about 3 - 4 cm long) so it was resting on a silver piece of metal just
below where the white plastic box had been. Put the cover back on and
the camera worked. Needless to say, it won't let me know if I've left
the cover off, but then it won't work unless the cover is on, so it
doesn't seem to matter. Saved about $100.
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Hi, I have solved this problem in a Olympus Fe-20 camera.
First of all, I will explain the facts of the problem. When closing the cover, inside the camera, there is a switch that get closed. This switch is like a door that opens or closes a electric contact. So when this switch is broken it does not join the contacts, so the camera thnks that the card cover is still open.
Taking out some screws of the plastic tap of the touch screen, you will see, the touch screen fixed with a special conector. With a small screw driver take the black part up, and then you will manage to take out te touch screen.
Then you have to take out the the board where the touch screen was fixed, taken out some screws , and disconneting the card from a similar conector than the one of the touch screen.
So you can take out this board, and see that you have reach the main board of the camera.
If you close the card cover, you can see in the main board the switch that opens/closes a contact due to the position of the cover.
The switch has 4 welding points. You will have to take it out, by a tin solder. Then put a tin in the left down welding point and fix with a wire to the rigth up welding point.
Fix the boarding card with its conector, fix the touch screen with its conector, and try to switch the camera on.
If OK, fix everything up. If not, have a look at the contacts welded, that the problem is there.
Hope to be helpfull.
Ours did the same thing. There is a switch that malfunctions - if you open up the back you'll see a connector with 4 metal springloaded pins on the removable back section, that matches up to a little plate with four metal bits in the back of the printer.
The bit of circuit board with the pins on gets loose in its moorings I unscrewed the removable back section and used some bits of business card type cardboard between the circuit board bit and the plastic casing to wedge it more securely in place. Now it works - good luck with yours!
Make sure the ink cartridge cover is properly closed.
My sister's printer had a similar problem and on initial inspection the cover seemed to be closed, however a small bit of the plastic clip that holds the cover closed had snapped off and therefore wasn't holding the cover properly closed and the sensing micro switch that tells the printer the hatch is closed wasn't being activated.
Not very scientific and a bit of a bodge, but some suitably placed selotape / duct tape / insulating tape to hold the cover firmly closed did the trick.
Hi! The switch that detects if battery cover is closed is broken. You can open the battery cover and look under it, you should see a small hole with a small black switch in it. If you have experience in repairs and / or soldering, you can fix it yourself - just shorten the switch. If you can't do it yourself, just give it to any local camera or mobile phone repair shop, they should be able to do it without problems.
Unfortunately, you have to force the battery door (very carefully) to open it, and find what is wrong with it.
It is more likely that when closed the battery door, it was forced and it slided out of one guide channels.
You need to practice a little bit before to try it with force (genlty but with firm force), but the only way to do it is slide the button to open it, and at the same time slide to the side and pull the battery door, everything at the same time. Try it until you are able to open it.
Using any kind of tool (such a plastic pry tool, a small screwdriver, etc) to force will leave marks in the housing, and it's very possible that the plastic locking tabs will break, causing that you will open it, but unable to close properly again.
The switch is a micro switch that is depressed(and not sad :)) by a plastic tag moulded on the battery cover. Once the cover is moved into position and closed, the tag presses on the micro switch closing the switch and thus removing the error message. As with any switch, a switch is simply open or closed, Open = high resistance or O/L, while closed = 0 ohms reistance. You can use a small wire to overcome the switch by soldering the wire to both tags of the switch so it is permenantly 0 ohms. This will send a message to the microprocessor that cover is closed and camera ready for use. Hope this helps.
Look for the switch on the memory card door of your camera. Usually a small piece of plastic on the door closes the switch when the door is closed. Check to make sure that the plastic piece is not worn down and is making contact with the switch. You can confirm that this is the problem by powering on the camera while closing the switch manually with a toothpick. Make sure you keep your fingers clear of the extending lens while doing this. If the plastic is worn down or broken off, try attaching a small piece of scrap plastic with super glue.
Props to Profjake. I followed his advice and problem solved! Here is what I found out.
I had the "Back door open" error on the LCD panel. There is a "interupter" type of sensor that detects if the back door is open or closed. When the back door is closed a lever is pushed forward and blocks the interupt module. The lever that blocks the sensor was not reqching the sensor horizontally - it was too far to the left. The lever on the far right is part of a 6" rod that goes across the middle of the paper path. The rod had jumped out of it's "home" position to the left and it was bowed a little bit. I carefully re-seated the rod to by gently lifting it and moving it to the right into a slot 1/8" from where I found it. The error cleared immediately. The was most likely caused by removing a paper jam.
Once again props to Profjake as his advice led me to the solution.
First, try shutting off, and unplugging the printer to do a reset on the micro & logic circuitry.
If you actually have broken switch or lever which actuates the switch, then an obvious solution is to replace said broken part. Or, if indeed a switch, you could possible bypass & defeat the switch so it doesn't sense the door open.
If this is an actual mechanical switch bypass is fairly simple. You will need to find out if the non-fault (normal operation) condition is either an Open or closed switch and either short across the switch contacts (closed) or pull a wire off (open).
If desperate to get the printer running, bypass the switch, use the printer, and get a replacement part ordered in the meantime, then install the new part to restore proper operation.
It's when putting the card in.. typically you put it in and it clicks (so to speak).. if you delay removing your finger-push, it does something to the card and makes a Disconnect, although in looking at it, it looks just fine.. and the cover closes...
A lot of people are reporting 'door open' errors. The micro-switch in the door housing is quite sensitive and pressure shifts from your hand on the door can cause it to trigger as if the door were opened. some get progressively worse. One fix is to add a little bit of length to the plastic that contacts the switch, either a layer of tape or a drop of epoxy, etc. This may help (or may not if the switch itself is flaky). Another fix discussed bypassing the switch altogether, obviously not for the faint of heart (or cameras in warrantee).