Whirlpool 24 in. DU1100XTPS Built-in Dishwasher Logo

Question about Whirlpool 24 in. DU1100XTPS Built-in Dishwasher

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DU1100xtpt6 stopped working - blinking clean light. Reapir tech says needs new logic board and heating element. Says logic board is under warrenty... can I get board from whirpool with out tech? Where I can buy correct heater? thanks!

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If you have "good hands" and a technical orientation, you can manage it by yourself (board and heating element). In any case, before buying a new heating element, check element's resistance with a multi-meter, maybe there is no problem with it. Be aware that before starting work on the machine, you should unplug its power cable !!!! In case you will need for an heating element, you can contact any washing machine spare parts store and by giving them your machine's details you will get it. Good luck!

Posted on Aug 14, 2007


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The clean light on kenmore dishwasher elite keeps blinking and will not stop

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My Fisher and Paykel dishdrawer has worked fine up until a week ago when it started being temperamental. It stops during the wash cycle anything up to 5 times claiming that it has no water. I push start...

I don't know if this will help. I had to work on Fisher & Paykel two draw dishwasher. The one problem was one draw would work but the other wouldn't. There is one board for each draw and one board in the base. The board in the base seem to be the power supply for the rest of the machine. I don't remember the model number and it has been years ago. Getting to the boards was not easy.
I did the swap the two draw boards and the problem didn't move. So whatever the problem was it was in the draw. I found Fisher & Paykel had design the heating element as a resistor to drop the 110 VAC down to a voltage the logic/controller board can use turn to Dc voltage to run board. The problem I found was the heating element had opened. There was no power to run the board. Later there was also a cable problem the confounded the repairman. He had to replace the draw harness.
My really big problem is the heating was on the ground side of the logic/controller board. The logic/controller board was on the 110 VAC side. So that if the heating element opened the logic/controller board would be floating up to 110 VAC. So any meter measurement on the board show 110 VAC. Even touching any part of the board and any part of washer you can get zapped. So be careful. It should the other way around so the board is at the ground side and heating element on the high side. If the heat element opened there would be no power to the board would be at ground level and no shock problem.

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Whirlpool from ikea DWF415

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