I have a Tempstar Smart Comfort 2000 Air Conditioner that will not come on. I checked the indoor unit and found a small 5 amp auto type fuse blown on the board. I replaced that fuse, also replaced the filters and cleaned out inside the unit. After that the furnace will come on, and the fan will kick on as long as the breaker outside by the airconditioning unit is off, trying to turn the air conditioner on again blew this small 5 amp fuse, leading me to believe the problem is with the outdoor unit itself. The fan on top of the unit turns fine. Could this be the capacitor? Would it be the compressor? Anything else i should check?
Sounds like you need a new contactor in the condenser. The low voltage is grounded. Remove the low voltage (likely 2 wires) at the condenser and wire nut the wires leading inside. With an insulated screwdriver manually push in the contactor and be sure both compressor and fan run. Then replace fuse and turn power on to air handler with a call for cooling. Obviously the outdoor unit won't run because you unhooked the low voltage but if fuse doesn't trip then it's likely the contactor. Good Luck
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Hello, if tne outdoor unit is running ( fan and compressor) and the indoor blower motor is running and yet the unit does not cool, then a airflow problem or low refrigerant charge are the problems. Begin by checking the air filter to make sure it is clean and check the blower wheel tommakebsure it is clean and running at proper speed. If the unit is clean then looks like you have a low refrigerant charge due to a leak.
A few basic principles for air conditioner troubleshooting. For both central home air conditioner or window air conditioner,
the first thing to check is whether the unit is getting proper power.
If the unit uses 220 volt power be sure that the proper voltage is
getting to the unit. Same for 110 volt units. A voltage meter can be
used to assure that the voltage is correct.
For window air conditioning units the voltage can also be checked before and after the thermostat.
If voltage is being supplied to the thermostat but not from it then the
thermostat probably needs replaced. This is a fairly common problem.
Another place to check is the fan motor voltage. The fan on window air conditioners runs both the indoor blower and the condenser fan. If that motor fails than the compressor
may run for a short time, but will overheat and shut off. Continued
operation like this will result in compressor failure. This motor can be
economically replaced for larger window air conditioners, but for
smaller ones the cost of replacement will be more than a new unit.
Central air conditioners
for the home are more complex and there are more things that can go
wrong. As with the window air conditioner the thermostat can also be a
problem. The central air conditioner thermostat will only have 24 volts going to it. So don't look for high voltage there. Some units the voltage will be coming from the outdoor unit and others the voltage will be supplied by the indoor air handler or furnace. Most home central air conditioning will be supplied by the indoor air handler or the furnace. If the air conditioner is for cooling only the unit will usually have only two wires going to the condenser unit. Make sure that you have 24 volts across those wires.
The
next thing to check will be the indoor blower. If your thermostat is
calling for cooling then the indoor blower should be running. If there
is no air moving across the indoor cooling coil then you will soon have a big block of ice formed on the coil.
This can happen for a few reasons. The indoor blower is not working,
the air flow is restricted and not allowing air to move across the coil.
A clogged air filter would also do this. Or the outdoor condenser unit has lost the charge of refrigerant.
Finally and worst of all is when you have a complete compressor failure. Often when this happens the compressor will "lock up" or not be able to turn when power is supplied to it. Overheating or lack of lubrication are usually the main causes of compressor failure. Overheating can be caused by the outdoor coil around the compressor getting clogged with dirt, leaves, or grass. Loss of the refrigerant charge will also cause the compressor to overheat. It is the cool return gas coming back to the compressor that helps to keep it from overheating.
As
you can see there are many things that can go wrong with an air
conditioner and I have not come close to exhausting the possibilities
here. I have just touched on the most common problems in a very basic
way. There are some basic trouble shooting things that can be done very easily. Most
problems are above out of the range of comfort for many homeowners and
professional help should be consulted before any attempt is made at
repairs. Remember also, that the release of refrigerant gases into the atmosphere is a federal offense in the US. Proper care must always be taken to minimize the release of any gases. A license is also required to handle refrigerants. Make sure that the professional you call has the proper certifications to handle refrigerants properly.
A few basic principles for air conditioner troubleshooting. For both central home air conditioner or window air conditioner,
the first thing to check is whether the unit is getting proper power.
If the unit uses 220 volt power be sure that the proper voltage is
getting to the unit. Same for 110 volt units. A voltage meter can be
used to assure that the voltage is correct.
For window air conditioning units the voltage can also be checked before and after the thermostat.
If voltage is being supplied to the thermostat but not from it then the
thermostat probably needs replaced. This is a fairly common problem.
Another place to check is the fan motor voltage. The fan on window air conditioners runs both the indoor blower and the condenser fan. If that motor fails than the compressor
may run for a short time, but will overheat and shut off. Continued
operation like this will result in compressor failure. This motor can be
economically replaced for larger window air conditioners, but for
smaller ones the cost of replacement will be more than a new unit.
Central air conditioners
for the home are more complex and there are more things that can go
wrong. As with the window air conditioner the thermostat can also be a
problem. The central air conditioner thermostat will only have 24 volts going to it. So don't look for high voltage there. Some units the voltage will be coming from the outdoor unit and others the voltage will be supplied by the indoor air handler or furnace. Most home central air conditioning will be supplied by the indoor air handler or the furnace. If the air conditioner is for cooling only the unit will usually have only two wires going to the condenser unit. Make sure that you have 24 volts across those wires.
The
next thing to check will be the indoor blower. If your thermostat is
calling for cooling then the indoor blower should be running. If there
is no air moving across the indoor cooling coil then you will soon have a big block of ice formed on the coil.
This can happen for a few reasons. The indoor blower is not working,
the air flow is restricted and not allowing air to move across the coil.
A clogged air filter would also do this. Or the outdoor condenser unit has lost the charge of refrigerant.
Finally and worst of all is when you have a complete compressor failure. Often when this happens the compressor will "lock up" or not be able to turn when power is supplied to it. Overheating or lack of lubrication are usually the main causes of compressor failure. Overheating can be caused by the outdoor coil around the compressor getting clogged with dirt, leaves, or grass. Loss of the refrigerant charge will also cause the compressor to overheat. It is the cool return gas coming back to the compressor that helps to keep it from overheating.
As
you can see there are many things that can go wrong with an air
conditioner and I have not come close to exhausting the possibilities
here. I have just touched on the most common problems in a very basic
way. There are some basic trouble shooting things that can be done very easily. Most
problems are above out of the range of comfort for many homeowners and
professional help should be consulted before any attempt is made at
repairs. Remember also, that the release of refrigerant gases into the atmosphere is a federal offense in the US. Proper care must always be taken to minimize the release of any gases. A license is also required to handle refrigerants. Make sure that the professional you call has the proper certifications to handle refrigerants properly.
A few basic principles for air conditioner troubleshooting. For both central home air conditioner or window air conditioner,
the first thing to check is whether the unit is getting proper power.
If the unit uses 220 volt power be sure that the proper voltage is
getting to the unit. Same for 110 volt units. A voltage meter can be
used to assure that the voltage is correct.
For window air conditioning units the voltage can also be checked before and after the thermostat.
If voltage is being supplied to the thermostat but not from it then the
thermostat probably needs replaced. This is a fairly common problem.
Another place to check is the fan motor voltage. The fan on window air conditioners runs both the indoor blower and the condenser fan. If that motor fails than the compressor
may run for a short time, but will overheat and shut off. Continued
operation like this will result in compressor failure. This motor can be
economically replaced for larger window air conditioners, but for
smaller ones the cost of replacement will be more than a new unit.
Central air conditioners
for the home are more complex and there are more things that can go
wrong. As with the window air conditioner the thermostat can also be a
problem. The central air conditioner thermostat will only have 24 volts going to it. So don't look for high voltage there. Some units the voltage will be coming from the outdoor unit and others the voltage will be supplied by the indoor air handler or furnace. Most home central air conditioning will be supplied by the indoor air handler or the furnace. If the air conditioner is for cooling only the unit will usually have only two wires going to the condenser unit. Make sure that you have 24 volts across those wires.
The
next thing to check will be the indoor blower. If your thermostat is
calling for cooling then the indoor blower should be running. If there
is no air moving across the indoor cooling coil then you will soon have a big block of ice formed on the coil.
This can happen for a few reasons. The indoor blower is not working,
the air flow is restricted and not allowing air to move across the coil.
A clogged air filter would also do this. Or the outdoor condenser unit has lost the charge of refrigerant.
Finally and worst of all is when you have a complete compressor failure. Often when this happens the compressor will "lock up" or not be able to turn when power is supplied to it. Overheating or lack of lubrication are usually the main causes of compressor failure. Overheating can be caused by the outdoor coil around the compressor getting clogged with dirt, leaves, or grass. Loss of the refrigerant charge will also cause the compressor to overheat. It is the cool return gas coming back to the compressor that helps to keep it from overheating.
As
you can see there are many things that can go wrong with an air
conditioner and I have not come close to exhausting the possibilities
here. I have just touched on the most common problems in a very basic
way. There are some basic trouble shooting things that can be done very easily. Most
problems are above out of the range of comfort for many homeowners and
professional help should be consulted before any attempt is made at
repairs. Remember also, that the release of refrigerant gases into the atmosphere is a federal offense in the US. Proper care must always be taken to minimize the release of any gases. A license is also required to handle refrigerants. Make sure that the professional you call has the proper certifications to handle refrigerants properly.
I have installed many heat pumps and if it is installed without and ouside temperature sensor I would not recommend running it below freezing 32 degrees farenheheit. Running a heat pump at low outside ambient temps. can hurt your compressor and that is the most expensive part of the outside unit.
This is a 2 speed condenser fan control board, the tempstar part number is 1086071, if you google tempstar 1086071 you will receive 1 listing for the part for something like 44 bucks, but if you go to sears parts direct and enter the part number they have a factory authorized substitute part number 1088977 that you can order from them for $17.49, some tempstar units were shipped without this control unit and the 2 speed fan just runs off the contactor on high speed only to do that disconnect the control unit and connect the black and orange wires that ran from contactor to the control unit previously together, and then the fan should come on in high speed when the condenser is on. there is a kit that they shipped these control units http://icpindexing.mqgroup.com/documents/086477/48201222001.pdf, (just for you to look at) so all you really need to do is get the new part from sears or run the motor in high and get rid of the part all together, hope this helps.
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