Question about Kenmore 24902 Top Load Washer

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Kenmore 80 series

Washer filled started then stopped. Won't move in any cycle. Sounds like the it hard to change out, could I possibly do it myself? If so, is there a site to coach me thru it. As a now single mom I am on a tight budget.

Posted by msdoitmyself on

  • 1 more comment 
  • bufordwon Mar 18, 2008

    This is a "dual agitation". The bottom part agitates but the top just sits there

  • Anonymous Apr 05, 2008

    when I use prewash mode, the clothes will end up soaked at the end of the cycle. It doesn't seem to be spinning fast enough to get rid of most of the water. Can you help me out?

  • kmquillen Apr 09, 2008

    The washer filled up and then stopped. it won't go to the next cycle. Is it maybe something wrong with the agitater?



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Jeff Rockwell

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If your washer fills normally, but then stops, this is usually an indication of a defective lid switch. If you raise and lower the lid, you should hear a "click" as the lid closes. No "click", bad lid switch. This is a typical problem for this model washer, and it is not hard to replace. A lid switch normally runs about $34. A timer, on the other hand, can run as much as $200 depending on model. In either case, you will need to remove the console to replace by following these steps: 1. Unplug the washer. 2. Remove console. Depending on the model you have, there are two ways to remove. a. The first type involves removing the two end caps to expose a screw. The end cap has a groove in the back at the top that you can place a flat tip screwdriver and gently lift. The cap should pop off. Loosen the screw under each end cap and grasp each end of the console. Pull slightly towards you and lift up. The console will flip back to a resting position over the back plate of the cabinet. Be careful not to damage the plastic hinges that hold it in place. b. The second type involves placing a putty knife under each front corner of the console and pushing straight from the front to release a retaining clip on each end. Push in with the putty knife while gently lifting at the same time. The console will pop up and can be placed in the resting position as mentioned in the previous step. Again, be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold the console on. Now if you're going to replace the timer, this is as far as you need to go. However, if you need to replace the lid switch you will need to go a few steps further. 1. After the console is removed, disconnect the the white connector plug on top of the washer casing. This is your lid switch connector. 2. Next, remove the two brass colored clips that hold the case to the frame. Place a flat blade screwdriver in the groove on the clip in the opening on top of the washer casing and push away from you. This will release the clips. 3. With the lid open, grasp the casing from under the front rim where it goes into the wash tub. DO NOT grab the wash tub itself, just the case. Pull from the back first and lift the case off the frame. The lid switch is located under the right hand side of the lid opening on most of these washers. Some, will be located in the back. Just remove the plug, two screws, and a ground wire and that's it. 4. Install new switch in the reverse order of the steps given. 5. Placing the case back on the frame can be tricky, but it's not hard. Looking down through the lid opening of the washer, make sure you place the front lip of the case UNDER the frame. Then, carefully lower the case from front to back ensuring you get the small cleats on the frame into the slots in the casing. There are four slots that need to be seated properly in order for the frame the stay on and not vibrate. Seat the front, first, then the back. 6. Place the brass colored clips back in place by hooking one end into the slot on the back plate of the washer first, then pushing down into the opening on top of the washer. The clip should snap back into place if you have it correctly seated on the frame. You will have to push down with a little force. 7. After that, reinstall the console and you're done. easy way to check to see if you have a lid switch problem is to take the connector that leads to the console and find something to short the two black wires together with. DO NOT cut the plug to do this. You will have to use alligator clips or a piece of insulated wire and insert into the plug. Do this with the washer turned off and unplugged. Once you have successfully jumpered the two black wires, plug the unit back in and start the washer. Allow to fill on a small load size. If the unit fills then begins to agitate, you know you have a bad lid switch. Stop the washer by pushing the timer button back in and unplugging. The lid will not stop the washer at this point, because you have by-passed the switch. If the washer still has the same symptoms then you may be right with your guess that you have a bad timer. In the majority of the machines I've worked on, however, the lid switch will fail first. It might be worth a try to replace the switch first, before spending a lot on a timer you may not need. Let me know if this helps.

Posted on Aug 13, 2007


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