Question about Smeg SUK91MFX5 Dual Fuel (Electric and Gas) Kitchen Range

Open Question

Range Hi, We need a selector switch wiring diagram to re-attach the 15 terminal connectors to our 1999/2000 year cooker. The selector switch has 6 terminals on one side(4 Gold along one edge and 2 silver on the opposite edge) and 9 on the other side(5 Gold on one edge and 4 silver ones on the opposite edge). Thanks in anticipation of your help.

Posted by William B Griffiths on

Ad

3 Related Answers

Carmen Mikulic

  • 415 Answers

SOURCE: SMEG A 2.5 Range Oven

sound like the TOD to me. have a technician replace it.

Posted on Sep 13, 2008

Ad
barterjoe

Joseph Mueller

  • 346 Answers

SOURCE: can anyone supply a wiring

Looking at http://www.smeg-service.co.uk/support/index.php I have come to the conclusion that the best wat to have this problem resolved is to post it to the help forum or hire an engineer. Smeg has locked down any drawings. Take some pics and draw the wires and you might get someone to figure it out for you. Always remember that the company certified technicians can fix it the right way the first time ;)
Good luck.
barterjoe_33.png

Posted on Feb 26, 2011

Ad

ann barrett

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: smeg suk91mfx shelves not fitting anymore on oven.

buy a pack of 2 oven shelf guards from lakeland 10.99. cut them in half and slide onto the ends of the 2 shelves. works perfectly.

Posted on Nov 13, 2011

Add Your Answer

×

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

I have a 1998 buick centry 3.2 .shut it off came back out and wont click or tick.all lights and everything is working.


Starter Voltage Drop

Starter relay ? Transmission range switch ? IS battery voltage getting to the starter solenoid S terminal ?

How to voltage drop test starter motor circuit

Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free-tsb Enter vehicle info. year , make , model an engine . Under system click on engine ,then under subsystem click on starting .

Starter
When the ignition switch is moved to the RUN position, battery voltage is applied to one side of the Crank Relay in the underhood accessory wiring junction block through circuit 3, the PCM-BCM Fuse in the fuse block, and circuit 439. When the ignition switch is turned to START, voltage is fed to the powertrain control module connector C2 terminal 23 through circuit 5, the CRANK SIGNAL Fuse in the fuse block, and circuit 806 through the underhood accessory wiring junction block. Power is always provided from the CRANK MaxiFuse in the underhood accessory wiring junction block to the common side of the Crank Relay contacts. When the powertrain control module sees the crank signal and determines that conditions are OK for a crank, it supplies ground through circuit 625 to the Crank Relay. The Crank Relay now has both power and ground to the relay coil, causing the relay to pull in. When this happens, and the gear selector is in either PARK or NEUTRAL, the power at the relay common contact is passed through the normally open contact , circuit 1737, the transaxle range switch and circuit 6 to the S terminal on the starter solenoid.

Jul 04, 2018 | Buick Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Looking for a wiring diagram for a range selector sensor plug for a 2004 chevy silverado 1500,4x4,4.8L with a 4KCD transmission


Connector Part Information • 15416722 BLK
• ASM Conn 12 F GT
Pin Wire Color Circuit No. Function
1 DK GRN 1433 Clutch Start Switch Signal
2-3 -- -- Not Used
4 YEL 772 Transmission Range Switch Signal B
5 BLK/WHT 771 Transmission Range Switch Signal A
6 GRY 773 Transmission Range Switch Signal C
7 BLK/WHT 451 Ground
8 WHT 776 Transmission Range Switch Signal P
9 LT GRN 275 Park Neutral Position Switch Signal
10 GRY 1524 Back-Up Lamp Supply Voltage
11 PNK 839 Ignition 1 Voltage
12 PPL 639 Ignition 1 Voltage

This all I could find, hope it is the correct one.

Apr 08, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Mains wiring for Belling Solitaire G707 gas cooker


Improve the FixYa experience for everyone by voting. I want you to let me know if the solutions suggested were of any value. Constructive criticism is welcomed.

Hi,

I'm a Yank who has lived in Europe for ten years and am familiar with mains, earths and colour.

Here a couple of possibilities for you that will require a little work on your part.

CLICK HERE
for eSpares (UK), who assure me that they can help you out.

CLICK HERE for the patent diagram.

CLICK HERE for the non-English diagram.

This was a challenging question and I'm really interested in how you make out.

May 22, 2012 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

P0707 transaxle range swutch- open circut


You can start by unplugging the sensor and look for bend pins or rust in the connector. Once this is done you can try re-adjusting the range switch.

This is from www.hmaservice.com.
1. Place the selector lever in the "N" (Neutral) position.
2. Loosen the manual control lever lock nut to separate the cable and lever.
3. Place the manual control lever in the "N" (Neutral) position.
4. Turn the transaxle range switch body until the 12 mm (.47 in.) wide end of the manual control lever aligns with the switch body flange [12 mm (0.472 in.) wide portion].
5. Tighten the attaching bolts (2 pcs.) to the specified torque.
When setting up the switch body, be careful O-ring does not drop from the switch body. Tighten the attaching bolts carefully.
6. Make sure that the selector lever is in the "N" (Neutral) position.
7. Adjust the flange nut so that there is no slack in the control cable and make sure that the selector lever operates smoothly.
8. Run the vehicle and confirm that the transaxle is set in each range when the selector lever is shifted to each position.


also try a tanny flush

May 14, 2012 | 2001 Hyundai Tiburon

1 Answer

I HAVE A WHIRLPOOL ACCUBAKE RANGE, THE OVEN AND BROILER DOES NOT WORK. CHANGED SPARK MODULE AND STILL DOESN'T WORK. ANY SOLUTIONS?????


There are four other things to check on the oven, you will have to run a test on the broiler element, oven thermostat, selector switch and the oven cycling relay.
To test the broiler element, To access the broil element located on the roof of the oven cavity, first open the oven and remove the oven racks. Remove the screws that secure the element to the oven, remove the holding brackets from the element and slide the element forward.
There is normally a small amount of excess wiring attached to the terminals on the element that allow a little room for maneuverability (you may have to tilt the element to get the terminals through the holes). Look for loose or disconnected wires and if there is no sign of burning; reconnect the wiring to the back of the terminal. If a terminal end is damaged, replace it with a terminal end designed specifically for oven use only.
To test the broil element, remove the wires from the broil element terminals by removing the screws from the terminal or pulling the wires off the broil element terminal. Remember to label the wires for reinstallation.
Visually check the entire element for signs of burn.
Test the broiler element for continuity. Using the ohmmeter, set the range scale on R x 1 and place the probes on the element terminals. There should be continuity, with readings ranging from 19 to 115 ohms, however readings will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer and according to unit size and the wattage, be sure to check your manual for the manufacturer's specifications.
If there are any signs of element burning, or if there is no continuity, replace the element.
To test for a grounded broil element, place one probe on the element outer surface and the other on the element terminal as in the ground test for the baking element. If continuity exists, the element has shorted and should be replaced. Be sure to test both terminals.
To test a dual broil element, remove the wires from their terminals. Using the ohmmeter, set the range on R x 1. Place the probes on terminals A and C to check for continuity, followed by terminals B and C. To test for a grounded element, place one probe on the element outer surface. With the other probe, touch terminal A, followed by B and then C. If continuity exists, the element has shorted and should be replaced.
To install a new broil element, simply reverse the disassembly procedures and reassemble, being sure to follow the wiring diagram and install the wires to the correct terminals
To test the oven thermostat: Access the oven thermostat, which is located in different places depending on the make and model: On freestanding ranges, access the thermostat by removing the screws that hold the back panel in place at both ends. On models with front-loading controls, remove the panel and tilt it for access. Be careful not to let the wires disconnect from their components. Some built-in models have a removable backsplash. Lift the backsplash, rest it on the cook top and remove the screws from the backsplash, which holds the rear panel. On wall ovens or eye-level ranges, access the control panel by opening the door and removing the screws that secure it. The screws may be under the exhaust hood or below the control panel. If the control panel is hinged, simply tilt it towards you. On some models both the rear and front control panels must be removed. The screws may be found on the trim and occasionally the trim must be removed.
When testing the thermostat switch contacts for continuity, refer to the wiring diagram and remove only those wires being tested - and only one pair at a time. Test switch contact terminals as per your wiring diagram. If the switch lacks continuity at any of the contact terminal points then the entire thermostat switch needs to be replaced. Adjusting the thermostat: Test the oven temperature by placing the tester in the oven's center and leaving it for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. Record the minimum and maximum temperatures of three cycles, then add those figures together, divide the result by six and you have the oven's average temperature.
If the average temperature is more than 25 degrees off, try calibrating the thermostat by following your appliance manual instructions for thermostat calibration.
Normally, thermostats are calibrated by pulling the oven's thermostat knob off, turning the knob over and adjusting the calibration ring on the back. If your oven doesn't have a calibration ring you may need to replace the thermostat.
To remove the thermostat: Disconnect the capillary tube and push it through the back oven wall, being careful not to break the flammable capillary tube wire. Remove the screws that secure the thermostat to the control panel and gently pull the thermostat out, leaving the wires in place. To install a new thermostat, reverse the disassembly procedures (Step 7 above), transferring the wires individually from the old unit to the new.
To test the selector switch: In order to gain access to the oven selector dial, first move the range away from the wall and remove the back cover panel by undoing the retaining screws. This will expose the back of the oven selector dial. Note: There are many styles of ranges. If this does not describe your range, refer to your owner's manual for instructions on gaining access to your oven selector dial. Now you can begin to test each pair of switch contacts for continuity with your VOM. Using the ohmmeter function, set the range scale to R x 1, and touch one test lead to each terminal of the switch contacts to be tested. There will be several pairs of contacts, one pair for each setting (eg. broil, bake, etc.). Refer carefully to your wiring diagram (often placed on the inside of the access panel) when testing. It is a good idea to label the wires as you test and only remove one pair of wires at a time. If there is no continuity between any pair of contacts, the switch is defective and must be replaced. To install a new oven selector dial switch, remove the old switch from the control panel by undoing the nut or screws holding the switch in place, leaving all wires attached. Transfer the wires one at a time from the old switch to the correct terminal of the new switch. Check your wiring diagram to make sure all wires are on the correct terminals. Now mount the new switch to the back of the control panel and replace the cover.
To test the oven cycling relay: In order to gain access to the oven cycling relay, refer to your owner's manual. Removing the back panel of the range accesses most relays, but some ranges locate the relay under the oven compartment where the utility drawer is usually located. Now you can test the relay using your VOM. First, label each wire attached to the relay and remove them from the relay terminals. Using your VOM's ohmmeter function, set the range to R x 1 and touch one test lead to the terminal marked L and the other test lead to terminal H2. There should be NO continuity. Next, test the terminals marked H1 and H2. Again, there should be NO continuity. Finally, test the S and R terminals. Continuity should exist between these two terminals. If your relay does not pass all these tests, it is defective and should be replaced. To remove the relay, undo the two screws securing it to the range and replace with the correct new relay. Refer to your wiring diagram and labeled wires to ensure that the wires are on the correct terminals. Now replace the back panel or drawer and test the oven.
Hope this was helpful to you. Thanks for using fixya.

Jan 27, 2011 | Whirlpool Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

Oven is not working


Hello there:
Just to clarify if yu are talking about the entire oven not working than check out these solutions
Fuse/circuit breaker Check to see if power is getting to the range/oven. Does anything turn on--even a light? If not, check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker. Main wiring Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the range/oven, gets burned and so breaks the connection. Then you may have to replace the power cord to the range/oven, and the terminal block that the wire is attached to. Range/oven wiring There may be a broken or burned wire at the back of the range/oven. If you repair any of the wires, use only proper appliance-grade wire and wire connectors. HOWEVER IF IT WILL NOT BAKE OR BROIL
It won't bake or broil If neither the bake nor the broiler heating elements heat, but the range burners still work, the clock may be set for a timed or self-cleaning cycle. Check to be sure the clock buttons and knobs are set properly. If your clock has a knob that says "push for man(ual)", push the knob in and try the baking and broiling elements again. If it still does not operate properly, you probably have a defect in the thermostat, selector switch, or common wiring. If the oven does not have a separate bake/broil/etc. selector switch, the problem may be with the thermostat. But it's not easy to check the selector switch or thermostat for proper operation. If you suspect a problem in this area, call a qualified appliance repair technician.

Nov 19, 2010 | Frigidaire Kitchen Ranges

7 Answers

My old GE oven (JSP38G052BG) won't bake or broil. It start then stop after 1 or 2 minutes. The heating elements get worm. Can you help me please


Hello ediben11.

If your oven's bake or the broiler heating elements won't heat but the range burners still work;the clock may be set for a timed or self-cleaning cycle. So,make sure to check the clock buttons and the knobs are set properly.
*If your clock has a knob that says "push for manual" then push the knob in after that, try the baking and broiling elements again.

*If it still does not work properly, you may have a defect in the thermostat/selector switch/common wiring.

*If the oven does not have a separate bake or broil selector switch; then the thermostat is probably the problem. It is not easy to check the selector switch or thermostat for proper operation. If you suspect a problem in this area, call a qualified appliance repair technician.

Hope this helps.


Mar 23, 2010 | LG LMVM1945 Microwave Oven

1 Answer

Hi there, we have replaced dual infinite switch on our jennair range and cannot figure out the correct wiring for the new 12002125 switch....can you help...???


Follow the instructions below from partselect:

Attach the black wire(s) from the old switch (terminal 2) to the new switch terminal P1. Also attach the jumper cable to P1 and "jump" it to S1.

Attach the orange wire (old switch terminal 5) to S2
Attach the yellow wire (old switch terminal 4) to 4a
Attach the tan/(white?) wire (old switch terminal 3) to terminal 4 on the new switch
Attach the single red wire from the right front element to terminal 2 on the new switch.
Attach the 'compound' red wires (the ones that come from the left rear/outlet connection and is also attached to the right rear switch) to terminal P2 on the new switch.
There is no need to separate the compound red wires.

495ac39.jpg

Best regards.

G.


May 28, 2009 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

Beko cooker model DC211B


Hi
many thanks for your reply ,I suspected that a charge may be applicable for your guidance of how repair the Fault .
Hence enough money spent as I was not happy with the wiring of the appliance as it would not have passed a P.A.T. .
I have purchased a New Cooker Model DW531 as the appliance is for my Disabled Brother & his Wife (Trade Price )

Many thanks
Mginty

Jun 28, 2008 | Beko 24 in. D3421F Free-standing...

Not finding what you are looking for?
Smeg SUK91MFX5 Dual Fuel (Electric and Gas) Kitchen Range Logo

Related Topics:

115 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Smeg Kitchen Ranges Experts

Michael Thomas
Michael Thomas

Level 3 Expert

3056 Answers

Lee Hodgson
Lee Hodgson

Level 3 Expert

4810 Answers

Pieter Vleeshouwers
Pieter Vleeshouwers

Level 3 Expert

2027 Answers

Are you a Smeg Kitchen Range Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...