HOT(C5292) blowsoff frequently;B+voltage(88v) shoots up up to 120

If you consider doing this the first thing is SHUT THE MAIN BREAKER OFF. Use an auxiliary light source to see when working in a dead panel. Always keep in mind an ARC FLASH ACROSS HOT MAINS HAS ENOUGH HEAT TO PEAL THE SKIN OFF OF YOU. Before an explanation of how to do it you should keep in mind that this is for a single receptacle only. If any other receptacles are on the same circuit they will also be changed to 240 volt receptacles and if you plug any 120 volt device into them, the 120 volt device will be destroyed. That said OK, any 120 volt outlet can be changed to 240 volt by removing the 120 volt circuits neutral, re identifying the white wire with red or black phase tape and connecting it to a new 2 pole 15 amp breaker. The maximum that this circuit will now load up to is, on #14 wire at 80% = 12 amps at 240 volts. The 120V receptacle must be changed to a 15A - 240V receptacle so that 120 volt devices can not be plugged into it. Never use 2 single pole breakers together because code requires that on a fault trip both legs of the 240V circuit must be disconnected simultaneously. OR USED A Quick 220 Voltage Converting Power Supply
Voltage converter buying guide. Voltage Transformer Buying guide.Voltage converters also known as voltage transformers are devices that convert foreign electricity to power devices from different parts of the world. A step down voltage converter is a 220 to 110 volts converter. A step up converter is a 110 volts to 220 volts converter. Our 2-way converters are voltage transformers that convert power from both 220 to 110 volts and 110 to 220 volts. They also work with 100 volts, 110 volts, 120 volts, 220 volts and 240 volts. This model is a 2 way voltage converter / voltage transformer available in many different sizes including 100 watts, 200 watts, 300 watts, 500 watts, 750 watts, 1000 watts, 1500 watts, 2000 watts, 3000 watts and 5000 watts.

You have 220Volts (same as 240V), then that circuit does not need a neutral.
All household single phase voltage requires two wires to complete the circuit.
With 120V, you have 1 hot wire and 1 neutral wire.
With 240, you have 2 hot wires, and these hot wires are called 'out of phase' since each comes from separate side of breaker box.
Notice that your 220V 10-2 wire goes back to a double breaker. This double breaker snaps over two different busbars. The breaker pulls 2 out of phase 120Volt lines, and when testing voltage across those two out of phase 120V wires, you get 240V potential.
The ground wire is redundant safety in both 120 or 240 Volt circuits, and is not necessary for either 120 or 240 to operate.
http://waterheatertimer.org/240-v-water-heater-circuit.html#120-240

This sounds more like you need a new set of plug wires and spark plugs. That should fix ya up.

Hello,

The screen is blank with no raster at all. There are indications that the channel numbers are changing in the display. This indicates that some of the low voltages are present but these may be derived from the standby supply.
Assuming there is no deflection and no High Voltage, you either have a low voltage power supply problem, bad start up circuit, or bad horizontal output transistor (HOT) or other bad parts in the horizontal deflection.

Check for bad fuses.

(If you have High Voltage as indicated by static electricity on the front of the screen and you hear the high pitched whine of the horizontal deflection when it is turned on, then the following does not apply).

Use an ohmmeter to test the HOT for shorts. If it is bad, look for open fusable resistors or other fuses you did not catch.
Assuming it is good, measure the voltage on the collector-emitter of the HOT (this is safe if there is no deflection). You should see the B+ - probably between 100 and 150 V.
If there is no voltage, you have a low voltage power supply problem and/or you have not found all the bad/open parts.
If there is voltage and no deflection (no high pitched whine and no HIGH VOLTAGE), you probably have a start up problem - all TVs need some kind of circuit to kick start the horizontal deflection until the auxiliary power outputs of the flyback are available. Some Zeniths use a simple multivibrator for this - a couple of transistors. Others power the horizontal osc. IC from a special line-derived voltage. The multivibrator type are sometimes designed to fail if someone keeps turning the set on and off (like kids playing) since the power rating is inadequate.
Test the transistors if it is that type with an ohmmeter. If one is shorted, you have a problem. The usual way a TV service person would test for start up problems is to inject a signal to the base of the HOT of about 15.75 kHz. If the TV then starts and runs once this signal is removed, the diagnosis is confirmed. This is risky - you can blow things up if not careful (including yourself).

If you hear the high pitched whine of the deflection and/or feel some static on the scree, confirm that the horizontal deflection and high voltage are working by adjusting the SCREEN control (probably on the flyback). If you can get a raster then your problem is probably in the video or chroma circuits, not the deflection or high voltage.

hope this helps......

Hello, The screen is blank with no raster at all. There are indications that the channel numbers are changing in the display. This indicates that some of the low voltages are present but these may be derived from the standby supply.
Assuming there is no deflection and no HV, you either have a low voltage power supply problem, bad startup circuit, or bad horizontal output transistor (HOT) or other bad parts in the horizontal deflection.
Check for bad fuses.
(If you have HV as indicated by static electricity on the front of the screen and you hear the high pitched whine of the horizontal deflection when it is turned on, then the following does not apply).
Use an ohmmeter to test the HOT for shorts. If it is bad, look for open fusable resistors or other fuses you did not catch.
Assuming it is good, measure the voltage on the collector-emitter of the HOT (this is safe if there is no deflection). You should see the B+ - probably between 100 and 150 V.
If there is no voltage, you have a low voltage power supply problem and/or you have not found all the bad/open parts.
If there is voltage and no deflection (no high pitched whine and no HV), you probably have a startup problem - all TVs need some kind of circuit to kick start the horizontal deflection until the auxiliary power outputs of the flyback are available.Others power the horizontal osc. IC from a special line-derived voltage. The multivibrator type are sometimes designed to fail if someone keeps turning the set on and off (like kids playing) since the power rating is inadequate.
Test the transistors if it is that type with an ohmmeter. If one is shorted, you have a problem. The usual way a TV service person would test for startup problems is to inject a signal to the base of the HOT of about 15.75 kHz. If the TV then starts and runs once this signal is removed, the diagnosis is confirmed. This is risky - you can blow things up if not careful (including yourself). This require a skilled personnel to handle this
If you hear the high pitched whine of the deflection and/or feel some static on the scree, confirm that the horizontal deflection and high voltage are working by adjusting the SCREEN control (probably on the flyback). If you can get a raster then your problem is probably in the video or chroma circuits, not the deflection or high voltage.

Try reading the resistance on the coil itself. If your coil is damaged and has a high resistance the voltage will still read 120 volts, becuase there is no current. The voltage drop across the coil is equal to the resistance of the coil times the current. V = I * R. "I" being current. If the resistance of the coil is high because it is broken then the voltage will still read 120V. Another way is to read the current through the coil.

If it is a 1500W fryer then the current through the coil is about 12 amps. 1500/120= 12.5. To calculate the resistance of the coil you would you take the voltage divided by the current. 120/12.5 = 9.6 ohms.

Therefore the resistance of the coil should be very low. It will actually be lower when it is not hot. So your ohmeter should read somewhere between 5 and 15 ohms.

Bob Janelli

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/bob_62dfa2f81bb55288

Sir, You should have 120v to the valve... if no voltage timer or electric control which ever you have... if voltage to it you may have to remove it to see if screen is blocked with debris.
Also make sure you have 120 volts at the water inlet valve.Regards, Biswa.

Hi

ang voltage ng HOT 90 to 120 Volts. kapag standby power yan ay 90 volts japag nag oscillate ang HOT power yan ay tataas ng 120volts Psi. Technician kaba?

Thanks
Likha!

240v There are 3 terminals on the back for the cord to go to the far left is a hot or L1 the center it N or nutural and the right is a hot or L2 the heating elements work off 240v so if you only have 120v then they only get warm

Thjeres a problem with the screen voltage driver voltage capacitor or the crt is going bad. have the shop test the b+ on the crt board first off . then remove the crt board and see if the voltage comes up. If it does the capaicitor is bad as it can take the load. But remeber theres extremly hi Voltage inside these sets so its never a good idea to try to do this your self unless you have the training to deal with HI Voltage and the proper saftey and test equipment. Good Luck