Hello TraciK,
It is likely you could fix it YOURSELF
for less than the cost of your ruined food...
(we can do this).
Refrigerators... while divinely simple... are self
sufficient (noble) appliances that are designed to
take care of themselves. Clean them, love them & they
will serve faithfully for DECADES...
ELSE... comment me back (I do love'em).
I have a
'94 Amana.. Counter depth, STAINLESS,
water/ice door service...
(the only appliance that survived our "kitchen refresh")
Likewise mine also
DOES NOT have a DEFROST TIMER...
but an electronic
PC (printed circuit)
CONTROL BOARD...
Mine (of course) is
MANUFACTURER DISCONTINUED
so count yourself "
LUCKY" ...
NOT only are your parts available... but
reasonably priced... (see below).
If you "refrigerator" has been UNPLUGGED for
three days... (and I am right) it should run NICELY
for a week or 10 days... before FAILING on the "REFRIGERATOR" side...
(frosting up... blocking
AIR FLOW).
You are most likely suffering from a
DEFROST
circuit FAILURE.
Not unlike the simple TIMER the
DEFROST circuit
operates 2 or 3 times each day...
(about 45 minutes).
As the entire interior of your "FRIG" is soft
plastic... going above 55 to 60 degrees
Fahrenheit
could/would case serious damage to your
REFRIGERATOR'S soft plastic interior...
Ergo... your
defrost heater is under the
control of a DEFROST THERMOSTAT... designed
to go "OPEN" (no connect) at temperatures
above 55 degrees (room temp (chilly))...
This is ENOUGH to melt frost but not affect your
food... nor cause damage to the soft PLASTIC
REFRIGERATOR'S interior.
To test for DEFROST issues on a single EVAPORATOR
refrigerator (yours)... you need only look through the vents of one that has been running a COUPLE of WEEKS.
You will likely see an EXCESSIVE build-up of
FROST.
/If you look into your defrost pan... it s likely quite DRY...
Testing with a clean, fresh piece of typing paper ..
would QUICKLY leave water marks on a fresh [piece
of paper...
(Same as testing for a leaky valve under your sink).
~~
((a single drop will
QUICKLY mark the paper)).
There are only 3 parts to YOUR defrost circuit:
- Defrost PC Board
- Defrost Thermostat
- Evaporator Heater element
The only other (REMOTE) possibility would be the
AIR-FLOW is being blocked by a bad "
DAMPER"
(also has video instructions (see below)).
Video
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-board-jazz-wpw10503278-ap6022400.html#autoplay
Part: PC Board (
WPW10503278)
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/01-cabinet-back-parts-for-amana-abc2037des.html
Damper Control
(part number
WP67003903)
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-control-damper-wp67003903-ap6010385.html
Happy hunting!
Carnac the Magnificent
Parts
PartSelect Appliance Parts and Repair Help
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freezer is 20 deg and ref is 60
maytag msd2756deb
the freezer works but refrigerator is warm.
any sugestion.
Neither one is cold enough...yet fan is running, nothing looks THAT dirty...but I cannot get into ANYthing! I hate to hire THEM to come fix it,
after all I've read on here. Mine is just three years old.
'Sure am glad we kept our first 'fridge, purchased 24 years ago, in the garage. It's holding everything and have never broken down! It's a
Maytag as well. They don't make 'em like they used to...Or it's Amana that's the problem?!
freezer is cooling fine but fridge is warm even on coldest setting.
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