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Inside of the fuel filter housing is a heating element, a fuel warmer. It is common for this element to break the spot welds of it's mounting plate and ground out against the housing, hence it blowing the fuse every time you try and warm up the glow-plugs. Take the top off of the fuel filter housing and remove the filter, then look into the bottom of the housing and see if the heater is touching the walls of the housing. If this is the problem you should be able to unplug the fuel heater and have the engine start until you get the heater replaced.
It could all be down to the micro-switch on you door. If the switch is not opening or closing properly, making/breaking contact properly it could cause a short which blows a fuse. Try giving it a clean. if there's some goo on the contacts from use, it could cause the problems you describe.
Try and get direct contact with the switch to clean it, if you cant, try a spray of WD40 a de-greaser or similar.
Hi, If you are blowing fuses and GFCI's your compressor is either not starting at all, is starting hard, or is at least grounding out momentarily... at any rate the compressor is failing, and that is not economically replaceable..
Try this website for resolving car problems by downloading a FREE
service manual for your vehicle. This is not an owners manual but a
factory mechcanic's manual.
Probably a problem with the heater element (if mineral insulated metal sheath type), or fluff on wire heater coils if that kind. This is behind the back cover.
This fuse will blow IF their is a blockage of air flow. The restricted air will build quickly. The fuse is mounted on the blower housing on rear of dryer. NOTE: you will continue to replace these puppys a around 10 bucks a pop if you fail to clean the dryer.
Try your oven on another circuit in your house. It is curious that your oven doesn't blow its own fuse before the house one. If it doesn't blow the fuse in the "new" circuit, check to see what is really on the kitchen circuit. It might, in fact, be overloaded. Good luck.
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