It were working perfectly well for about 6 months. Last winter, suddently stop. I called a technitian, he replace the 3 Amps fuse and the heating start working again. Later, same day, I try to turn on the fan, and the 3 Amps fuse, blow again.
Can some one help me with this problems?
It is a problem on your low voltage side. I had the same issue and found that my wire going to my outside condeser had been snagged on a wire hanger in my basement and was shorting out the system. I went a head and replaced the entire wire from my outside unit to my indoor and haven't had an issue since. So my advice is go to HD or Lowes and purchase some 14 gauge wire and replace the low voltage wire. If that doesn't work, then replace the thermistat wire, and thermistat. Great time to upgrate to a energy efficient thermastat.
This fuse is used on the low voltage side of the furnace. All 24 volt controls operate thru it. You may have a short in your thermostst, thermostat wire or even a bad transformer. After replacing the fuse, inspect the wiring in the cabinet as well as the wire heading toward the thermostat for damage. If you find none, check the thermostat for loose wires or contacts. If all else fails, jump out R and W with a small jumper temporarly at the furnace and see if the unit runs. You will have to tape the door switch closed to run it with the panel off. Remember, this will keep the furnace running 100% of the time until you disconnect the jumpers. Not a solution, just a test! If it runs flawless, you have a bad thermostat or wire. Diagnosing a transformer is for a technician.
I HAVE THE GMPN 0804 AND IT CAME ON THIS MORNING AND THEN A LOUD NOISE CAME OUT OF IT. I IMMEDIATELY SHUT OFF THE EMERGENCY SWITCH. AFTER A FEW MINUTES I TURNED IT BACK ON AND IT KICKED IN BUT THEN IT MADE A CLICK IN THE FAN ON THE BOTTOM WHICH DID NOT KICK IN AND SMELLED A LITTLE.
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Anybody who sells batteries can tell you those specs, there is some leeway. My last battery purchase was at a place called "Battery Warehouse". For my 1992 Buick, they only offered 2 options: the one recommended by Buick with higher cranking amps, or a lower price one with fewer Cold Cranking Amps, I think around 500 CCA. For a car that old, I went with the lower price battery for $75. It has served perfectly well these last few months.
I will assume this is a central air conditioning system. From what you tell us about the symptoms a few things come to mind for you to check.
1. Change your thermostat and see if that cures your problem. *The following steps requires the use of a multimeter and work around electricity, use due caution or call a professional.* 2. Check the contactor inside the outside unit while you have the thermostat calling for cool and see if it is pulled in or if it is stuck. If you are not comfortable around high amp electricity then please call a professional in your area to make these checks. 3. Check to see if the thermostat wires going to the outside unit are sending 24 to 28 volts to the unit. This will tell you if the problem is outside or inside the home. If there is no voltage there then check at your furnace to see if the t-stat is sending the power on the Y connection.
There is much more to check but this should get you going in the right direction and will locate the problem in most cases. Hope this helps.
i replace the thermal fuse kit 2 month ago and my dryer was working good but 2 days ago stop heating again so i did replaced the thermal fuse again and i did some lint cleaning but this time it only last about 20 min. and stop heating again.what could be the problem?
from your description, it seems the little fuse is overheating sometimes, a short is a short and an immidiate fuse blower. i would use a higher amperage fuse, 30 amps. any electronic tech can replace this, doesnt have to be your Gaggenau guy, as it seems to me hes made a regular income of this
if you live in a town that has a remote starter installation shop you can just go there and buy a new pinswitch for around 6 dollars i recomend changing the location of it under the hood
and if your red power wire has only 15 amps of protection you should switch it for a 30 amp fuse thats the minimum that is going to be pulled when the unit cranks the starter wire so the 15 will deffinately melt or blow and check to insure the ground is perfectly connected (in the world of current vs. resistance the weakest point will give in first...