Agitator ''dogs'' not gripping, agitator spins freely; tub rocks

hi Rick.
Reasons a washer will make noise during spin mode:
1. Main tub bearing faulty
2. Main drive pulley
3. Motor coupling worn
4. Bad clutch
5. Worn out drive belt
6. Clogged or damaged drain pump
7. Transmission is worn out
8. Shock absorber (front loader washers)
9. Springs or dampening straps (top load washers)
10. Agitator directional cogs aka "agitator dogs" (top load washers
When the washer spins, it rides on a bearing that allows the tub to move freely with zero resistance. If this bearing is worn out, a loud noise will be heard when the washer spins. A good way to tell if your washer problem is the main tub bearing will be that the washer noise will get worse or louder as time goes on. This means the bearing is becoming more worn out and close to complete failure. The bearing in your washing machine is a circular metal object that has many small little metal balls inside. These small metal balls inside the bearing sit in a track and move when the washer is spinning. If the tub bearing begins to wear out, usually the small metal balls inside can fall out one by one causing the noise you hear. (If your washing machine is a front load washer, open the door and turn the drum by hand. If you hear a rubbing sound or the drum spins uneven, then the main tub bearing is most likely bad and needs replaced.)
Washing machine tub bearing

Washer has noise during spin cycle
The bearing may also be without lubrication. If the sound you hear is more of a squeaking noise than a grinding noise, it may mean the bearing needs to be lubricated with a mechanical grease. If the sound is more of a grinding noise, then this usually means the bearing is falling apart and will need to be replaced ASAP. If you suspect your washers main tub bearing is worn out, the repair process is one of the most difficult to perform yourself. A worn bearing can also damage the tub of the washer. This means the tub (inner or outer) may need to be replaced also.
A washer making a loud noise during spin cycle can also be caused by a faulty drive pulley. The pulley is what the belt (if applicable to your washer) rides on to spin your washers tub. The pulley can be made of plastic or metal. It could be simply worn out or just loose. To find out if the drive pulley is causing the noise, you will need to take the washer apart and inspect the pulley for signs of damage.
WASHER MOTOR PULLEY
The motor coupling could also be the cause of the loud noise. The motor coupling in your washer connects the washers transmission to the motor. It is made of plastic and built to break if the washer gets overloaded. This is so the motor and the transmission do not become damaged. The motor coupling is an easier repair and can be done by most people.




Washer Washing Machine Motor Drive Coupling Coupler
The clutch in a washing machine connects the inner wash tub to the transmission. The clutch lets the washer get to the proper spin RPM in a gradual way. If the clutch is worn it can make noise when the washer is spinning. A bad clutch needs to be removed and replaced to stop the noise.
Washing Machine Clutch
The belt in your washer can become worn and cause noise while spinning. If worn out, replace the belt. Replacing the drive belt on a washing machine is an easy task and can be ordered online for less.
Washing machine belt
The drain pump in your washer that drains the water out could be clogged or damaged. While in spin mode, your washer may drain out the water by using the drain pump. If the loud noise only happens at certain intervals during the spin cycle, it may be the drain pump. Usually this can be fixed by simply removing the drain pump and removing any debris that may be clogging it up causing the noise.
Drain Pump for Washing Machine




The next part of your washer that can be causing a loud noise is the transmission. If the transmission is bad, usually the cost to fix this outweighs the cost of a new washer.
If you have a front loading washing machine, they all have shock absorbers. The shock absorbers are used to center the tub movement while in the spin cycle. These shock absorbers are connected from the washer frame to the outer tub. If the shock absorbers in your front loader become weak the washer will make a loud banging sound during the spinning cycle.
Shock Absorber for washing machine
Top load washers usually have springs or dampening straps holding the tub centered. If a spring or strap falls off or becomes weak, a loud noise will be heard in spin mode. Simply replace the strap, spring, or springs to remedy this issue.
Washing machine suspension springs
Agitator directional cogs are used to operate the upper part of dual action agitators (Top load washers). They engage the cogs on the inner area of the agitator as it turns in one direction. They release when the agitator reverses its direction. This lets the top part of the agitator to ratchet in only one direction. The bottom part will agitate in both directions. The cogs are made of plastic and wear out with regular use. They will start slipping and make a grinding noise. Another way to be sure that this part is bad is if you notice the top portion of the agitator does not move in a smooth motion. Removing the top half of the agitator to see if the cogs are worn out.

make this test and fix it. God bless you
First you will need to identify if you have a direct drive type or a belt drive. The later is obvious if you have belts under your machine it is a belt drive, if not it is a direct drive. Also there are 2 basic agitator types with some variances among them. The 2 piece and the single.

Agitator Dogs
The agitator dogs are in the 2 piece type of agitator. These wear out over time. They also break and can cause noise. To inspect and replace the agitator dog .

Agitator Coupling / Spline
The other type depending on age of your machine use a spline. Newer GE types have a coupling that gets stripped out and the older GE type has a spline directly on the agitater that gets stripped out. You will need to remove the agitator. The dispenser usually pulls right out. This will give you access to the bolt that holds the agitater down. Remove the bolt, then place your fingers under the agitator and pull up. This can take some force. A belt slid under the agitater can also work. Once off you will see if it is stripped or not.

Belt
If your washer is a belt drive type make sure the belt is tight. Check for black soot from belt wear. Replace if it has excessive wear or broke.

Motor Coupler
This is a fairly common problem with direct drive machines but inexpensive and easy to replace. The Motor Coupler transfers power from the motor to the transmission. The following video will walk you through the replacemente motor coupler.

Transmission
The transmission does not usually fail. To check this on a direct drive remove the motor and then turn tub inside. If it spins freely with no noise the problem is elsewhere. If it is noisy it needs replacing this is expensive and depending on the age of your machine you may not want to replace it. On a belt drive remove the belts and spin tub.

follow this steps and fix it. God bless you
First you will need to identify if you have a direct drive type or a belt drive. The later is obvious if you have belts under your machine it is a belt drive, if not it is a direct drive. Also there are 2 basic agitator types with some variances among them. The 2 piece and the single.

Agitator Dogs
The agitator dogs are in the 2 piece type of agitator. These wear out over time. They also break and can cause noise. To inspect and replace the agitator dogs follow video.

Agitator Coupling / Spline
The other type depending on age of your machine use a spline. Newer GE types have a coupling that gets stripped out and the older GE type has a spline directly on the agitater that gets stripped out. You will need to remove the agitator. The dispenser usually pulls right out. This will give you access to the bolt that holds the agitater down. Remove the bolt, then place your fingers under the agitator and pull up. This can take some force. A belt slid under the agitater can also work. Once off you will see if it is stripped or not.

Belt
If your washer is a belt drive type make sure the belt is tight. Check for black soot from belt wear. Replace if it has excessive wear or broke.

Motor Coupler
This is a fairly common problem with direct drive machines but inexpensive and easy to replace. The Motor Coupler transfers power from the motor to the transmission. The following video will walk you through the replacemente of motor coupler

Transmission
The transmission does not usually fail. To check this on a direct drive remove the motor and then turn tub inside. If it spins freely with no noise the problem is elsewhere. If it is noisy it needs replacing this is expensive and depending on the age of your machine you may not want to replace it. On a belt drive remove the belts and spin tub.

see this steps and fix it. GOd bless you

First you will need to identify if you have a direct drive type or a belt drive. The later is obvious if you have belts under your machine it is a belt drive, if not it is a direct drive. Also there are 2 basic agitator types with some variances among them. The 2 piece and the single.

Agitator Dogs
The agitator dogs are in the 2 piece type of agitator. These wear out over time. They also break and can cause noise. To inspect and replace the agitator dogs follow video.

Agitator Coupling / Spline
The other type depending on age of your machine use a spline. Newer GE types have a coupling that gets stripped out and the older GE type has a spline directly on the agitater that gets stripped out. You will need to remove the agitator. The dispenser usually pulls right out. This will give you access to the bolt that holds the agitater down. Remove the bolt, then place your fingers under the agitator and pull up. This can take some force. A belt slid under the agitater can also work. Once off you will see if it is stripped or not.

Belt
If your washer is a belt drive type make sure the belt is tight. Check for black soot from belt wear. Replace if it has excessive wear or broke.

Motor Coupler
This is a fairly common problem with direct drive machines but inexpensive and easy to replace. The Motor Coupler transfers power from the motor to the transmission. The following video will walk you through the replacement of motor coupler

Transmission
The transmission does not usually fail. To check this on a direct drive remove the motor and then turn tub inside. If it spins freely with no noise the problem is elsewhere. If it is noisy it needs replacing this is expensive and depending on the age of your machine you may not want to replace it. On a belt drive remove the belts and spin tub.

Most likely agitator dogs / gears are stripped out inside agitator. If it's a double action agitator where the top turns independently from the bottom, the top should turn one way and not the other. If top of agitator turns freely in either direction, then replace those dogs. If it's a single action agitator, then grooves that slide onto transmission shaft in agitator itself could be stripped out. If that's the case, replace agitator

open the lid and get a model #, sound like all you need is agit dogs # 80040. then remove top of the agitator, could be a softener dispenser. under that you will find a plastic cap, pull up with needle nose pliers. under that you will find a 7/16 or 1/2 bolt, remove the bolt and the agitator can be lifted off. the agitator can now be split into to pieces, turn the top half over and the assy with the agit dgs will fall out. simply replace and reassemble and DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN BOLT. just snug it up. should be fine.

If the problem is just the agitator not working, but everything else does, you may just have a worn agitator cam assembly, worn agitator dogs, loose agitator bolt, or all of the above. The following link explains what agitator dogs are and how to access them:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3608577-replacing_agitator_dogs

Whirlpool manufactured washers (such as Kenmore) use a split agitator design. The top half is known as the "auger, while the lower half is the agitator. Between the two pieces is a cam assembly, with small teflon teeth known as "dogs". There's also an agitator bolt that holds the entire assembly to the center post.

If the auger (top half of the agitator) is slipping, I would suspect the dogs or cam assembly need to be replaced. The part number for the dogs is included in the link I provided. For a little more you can purchase the entire cam assembly which includes the dogs, the cam, the cam seal and thrust bearing.

If the entire agitator appears loose or slipping, check the agitator bolt to ensure it is tight. DO NOT overtighten as this can restrict movement of the agitator or damage it. Tighten until snug.


Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

All these sites are reputable and offer great service with competitive pricing, so shop and compare. The first three sites I listed also include helpful exploded view parts diagrams to assist you in locating and properly identifying the parts you need. If you do not wish to order parts on line, use the part numbers from the Sears website and go to your nearest appliance parts retailer. These parts are commonly sold as part of their in-store inventory.


NOTE: Other causes can include a broken motor coupling, bad gearcase (transmission), or worn clutch assembly. It does not sound like the problem is associated with any of these components however.

If the motor coupling were bad, the washer would not spin at all (whether you held the agitator or not), but would still have the ability to drain.

If the gearcase (transmission) were bad, the washer would either not spin, or may spin with assistance (meaning, if you gave the drum a spin by hand to get it started).

If the clutch were bad, the symptoms would be similiar to that of the gearcase and the tub would probably also have problems stopping.

This problem sounds like it may only be associated with an agitator that could be loose, causing an off balance tub. Read through the information provided and let me know if you have any questions. I hope this is helpful to you.

If dogs and coupling are replaced, then you will need to look at the transmisson, check the piece that holds drum on itself, this bearing can go bad. There is also a seal under the nut that holds on the air bell housing.
There is also a plastic hub that connects the agitator to the motor that can go worn.

its probably in the gear case. or spin tube bearings. did you see any oil leaks on the gear case or clutch and break area.

remove cap,,or fabric softner dispencer..pull straight up..look down in the agitator you will see a plastic cover,,pull it straight up...now your looking at the agitator dog cam assmbly..thats a 1/2 in nut there,,remove it you will need a nut driver or wrectet...now just pull the hold agitator up...be careful not to lose the agatitor dogs..onthejob