I had the identical problem and tried this suggestion but it did not work. I took off the fuel bowl and sprayed all the part I could get to with a carburetor/choke cleaner. Unfortunately that did not work either so I removed the linkages and removed the carburetor. The key part that was clogged was the fuel jet. The bolt that holds the fuel bowl to the carburetor actually screws into bottom of the jet. I totally overlooked this earlier. I sprayed cleaner into this part and then blew it with compressed air. I reassembled the carburetor and tried to start. It caught on the first try. So far so good. I think looking back that all I really had to do was to take off the bowl and spray the jet. A lot simpler than taking it apart.....The real Dr J
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This problem is common if you have not used the engine for some time or you ran out of gas while the engine was running.
Should you like to venture this a try, you have to remove the air cleaner cover & remove the air filter element and temporarily replace it with a clean rug big enough to cover the entire air box. It should cover fully and snuggly the air intake of the carburetor. With the engine off and sparkplug remove, crank the engine several times. The idea is to manually choke the carbs (partial/controlled flooding), prime the carbs (if your engine is using a vacuum controlled fuel/pet cock/valve which of course must be turned on it it was manual). To verify that fuel is getting inside the combustion chamber, you have to stick your index finger to cover the sparkplug hole while cranking. This will cause popping out (because of compression) of your finger. Presence of fuel in your finger would be a good sign. Let it rest for a while then remove the rug, reinstall the air filter + cover & plug. Start your engine. As a safety precaution, when working, no open flames, make sure engine is off when doing the finger test. Based on your post "sparks coming from the plug" I will assume that your mechanically inclined since you were able to perform this test and therefore familiar with the use of tools and safe practice. Good luck and pls post again how things turn up. Kind regards.
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Is there a spark at the plug?
Is there good induction and fuel reaching the combustion chamber?
Is the choke, strangler or cold start working?
An engine needs compression, timing, the right amount of fuel a good spark and a decent cranking speed in order to start.
A side valve easy start engine is likely to have a low compression pressure as would an ohv engine designed to run on poor fuel. Other types of engine with low compression but a good cylinder leakage results probably has a dry or fuel-washed bore and adding a little oil into the cylinder can improve matters.
Pulley ? What pulley?
If you mean the recoil starter pull cord is stuck it might be a simple fix. Did your machine tip over on its side?
If it did oil often flows into the cylinder. Just remove the spark plug. The recoil cord should pull easily and oil will spurt out the spark plug opening. Pull until oil stops coming out. Check your oil level. Replace your spark plug and see if she starts.
Spark and gas??? Must have both. Pull spark plug wire and check for spark. If you have spark, check gap on spark plug. Check the bowl on carburetor. loosen bowl screw to see if gas is coming out. If you have gas coming out, carb needs to be taken off and cleaned or rebuilt.
"leaking into the top of the second cylinder on top of the spark plug wire only this matter !! cure that.
some engines have spark well. are you saying the wells fill with oil? if yes, you didnt buy a real valve cover sit, try FELPRO that comes with the well seals , with kit. skipping is misfire. if the boots get fill of oil, sure it will misfire, how can it not?
I have thought about this problem for a while now. It came to me that what you are experiencing is the aftermath of the WAY you my have stored your machine. If you stored it on it's side or on it's end ,this may have allowed the engine oil to leak into the cylinder . This causes the piston to be blocked by the engine oil. First to see if this is so, remove your spark plug, if oil starts coming out tip the machine to allow the oil to get out of the engine. You can probably clean the spark plug with carburator cleaner, or just replace with a new one. Replace plug, fresh gas, and start. Your mower will smoke for a while ,but will then start to run clear. I hope your problem will be solved. GOOD LUCK.
THE BLOWERVAC COULD HAVE GAS PROBLEM OR A NO SPARK TO SPARK PLUG PROBLEM. TO DETERMINE THE SPARK PROBLEM FIRST, REMOVE THE SPARK PLUG, LOOK AT THE END OF THE SPARK PLUG (ENGINE END) TO SEE IF IT IS DRY OR WET WITH GAS, THEN RE-ATTACH THE SPARK WIRE WHILE THE SPARK PLUG IS LAYING LOOSE AND PULL THE ROPE TO TURN THE ENGINE AND LOOK TO SEE IF THERE IS SPARK OCCURING AT THE SPARK PLUG. IF THERE IS SPARK PRESENT, YOU HAVE NO PROBLEM WITH SPARK. REPLACE THE PLUG AND WIRE. IF NO SPARK CHECK YOUR WIRE LEADING TO THE SPARK PLUG TO MAKE SURE IT HAS AN ELECTRICAL CONNECTION AT BOTH ENDS, SPARK PLUG END AND ENGINE END. IF LOOSE FIX THE CONNECTION THEN RE-TRY THE SPARK/ENGINE TURN OVER BY ROPE METHOD AGAIN TO SEE THEN IF YOU HAVE SPARK. IF THEN YOU DO HAVE SPARK, RE-ATTACH SPARK PLUG TO THE ENGINE AND RE-ATTACH SPARK PLUG WIRE TO THE SPARK PLUG AND TRY THEN TO START THE ENGINE.
IF THERE WAS A WET PLUG WHEN YOU FIRST REMOVED THE SPARK PLUG AND YOU NOW HAVE SPARK AT THE SPARK PLUG, YOUR ENGINE SHOULD START.
IF IT STILL WILL NOT START AFTER THE SPARK CHECK, I WOULD REPLACE THE SPARK PLUG WITH A NEW ONE.
IF THEN IT WILL NOT START, THEN REMOVE THE SPARK PLUG AGAIN AND POUR A SMALL AMOUNT OF GAS INTO THE ENGINE SPARK PLUG HOLE. A PINT PLASTIC OIL CAP FULL OF GAS IS ENOUGH, DO NOT OVER USE MORE THEN THAT.
THE RE-ATTACH YOUR SPARK PLUG AND SPARK PLUG WIRE AND TRY STARTING THE ENGINE AGAIN. IT MAY TAKE SEVERAL PULLS TO GET THE EXTRA GAS IN THE SPARK HOLE TO BE USED UP BEFORE YOU START TO HEAR IT RUN ALITTLE AND FIRE NOW AND THEN.
IT SHOULD START THEN.
IF THEN IT DOES NOT START, YU HAVE USED UP THE GAS YOU PUT INTO THE ENGINE BY THE CAP FULL METHOD AND IT IS NOT GETTING GAS BY THE GAS TANK SUPPLY.
THIS MEANS THEN YOU HAVE AN IN LINE GAS LINE FILTER THAT IS PLUGGED UP OR YOUR GAS MAY BE OLD IN THE GAS TANK. IF GAS IS NOT OLD AND FILTER IS NOT PLUGGED, THEN YOU NEED TO REMOVE THE GAS LINE LEADING TO THE ENGINE CARBURATOR TO SEE IF IT WILL FLOW FROM THE GAS TANK OUT THE GAS LINE SUPPLY HOSE. IF IT DOES FLOW FREELY, THEN YOU DO NOT HAVE A GAS SUPPLY PROBLEM,
AS LONG AS YOUR GAS IS NOT OLD GAS. OLD GAS WILL GO BAD IN TIME. I'D REPLACE THE GAS WITH NEW AND TRY AGAIN.
IF THIS DOES NOT WORK, THEN ITS CARBURATION CLEAN UP TIME.
IT WILL NEED TO BE REMOVED FROM THE ENGINE BY A FEW BOLTS, HOSE'S REMOVED AND TAKEN APART AND CLEANED. TARNISH FROM GAS AND OIL WILL BLOCK THE CARBURATOR JETS AND VACCUM PUMP FROM WORKING PROPERLY. CLEAN AND REPLACE, TRY AGAIN TO START ENGINE.
MORE GAS IN SPARK PLUG HOLE TO GET GOING MAY BE ANOTHER ATEMPT AFTER CARBURATOR CLEAN UP.
Here is the long answer with everything we learned while using a power washer twice a day for years:: This assumes you did not turn power washer over or on its side to drain oil, or dirty oil will flow into carburetor requiring complete carburetor cleaning.
It sounds like could be one of the problems listed below or a combination of those things. 1) The exhaust is partially blocked. Check the screen covering exhaust port for carbon and dirt build-up. High-speed exhaust air must pass freely. We finally broke the exhaust screen out with a screwdriver to get our machine going one day. 2) Gas is not flowing freely to carburetor > under gas tank, find the rubber hose connected to carburetor. Pull off rubber hose and make sure gas flows freely. You can use this hose to drain gas tank of old gas ... and then put in fresh gas. 3) Carburetor is partially gummed up and engine cuts off when gas flow slows down. Buy some gum out, and then don't store power washer with gasoline in the tank. Or put additive in gas when storing machine. 4) The choke is letting in too much gas or not enough gas. Try different adjustments. The choke-lever on our power washer got so bad that we could not set throttle at full open or the machine would die. We still use the machine at 2/3 throttle, and then start it each time using WD-40 as described below. 5) Dirty air filter that won't let engine breath enough air to keep up with combustion. Take off air filter and see if problem persists. 6) The spark coil is going bad?? Change spark plug to see if problem persists. Is spark plug wire pushed all the way onto the spark plug?
Now the nitty gritty: we're gonna start that thing right now 7) Take off air filter. Spray WD-40 directly into carburetor. Yes, we use WD-40 every time to start my power washer, and we use the washer twice a week. Spray in the WD-40, Pull the engine cord. The engine will fire on WD-40. Guaranteed. Once it starts, keep spraying WD-40 directly into carburetor to keep engine going. If engine will not fire and keep going on WD-40, then your spark is suspect. If your engine fires and runs on WD-40 but dies without it, then your gas supply or carburetor are suspect 8) Carburetor problem >>> try Gum out >>> and then take machine to small engine repair shop 9) Spark ... take out spark plug. Put spark wire back on. Hold spark plug by spark wire. Touch metal threads of spark plug to metal opening where plug came out. Metal to metal. Pull back start cord and look for spark between the metal. If you have no spark, then spark coil is bad >>> take machine to small engine repair shop
My power-washer suffers from same problem after sitting idle.
After paying for a new carburetor, I discovered how important it is to drain the gas if washer is going to sit idle.
Another time, we had a problem with the screen covering exhaust outlet. Deposits from the engine + dirt clogged the screen. Although it's not the solution for everybody, we broke the screen open with a screwdriver and the machine ran fine after that.
Small gas engines require 3 things. Compression, spark, and fuel. Take out spark plug. Put finger over spark plug hole and pull cord or push starter. Do you feel suction? If yes, then you have compression.
If machine will not turn over at all, then your motor might have run out of oil. Power washer needs oil in 2 places. It needs oil for the engine just like a lawn mower. Oil plugs are located low on each side of engine. It doesn't hurt to change oil, but do NOT NOT turn small engine upside down or oil will get into carburetor which requires removal and cleaning. I learned that the hard way.
The power washer also needs oil for the pump head. This is the box attached to front of engine. Usually 10W20 non-detergent is a good choice. Oil is usually about half way up inside pump head.
Now hook spark-wire back to spark plug. Hold spark plug in hand. Touch threads of spark plug to metal spark plug opening. Now pull cord or push starter. Do you see sparking in the spark plug gap? If yes, then you have spark. Put new spark plug in anyway. If no, then you need parts from small engine repair service.
Spark plug is in. Take off air filter so you have access to carburetor air intake. Put fresh gas in tank. Use starter spray or WD-40 as a starting accelerant. Set your choke to start engine. Spray starter fluid into carburetor opening and pull cord or push starter. The engine should fire up on the starter fluid. If engine doesn't fire, then try setting choke in different positions. If engine doesn't fire up then carburetor is suspect.
If engine fires but dies, keep spraying starter fluid into carburetor to see if you can keep it going that way ... and then move choke in different positions ... you might need extra hands for that maneuver.
If machine turns on, but dies when filter is put back, then filter might be clogged. Time for a new filter anyway.
Finally check the fuel filter and fuel line below the gas tank. It usually has a hex head bolt. Loosen bolt and see if fuel is able to fall out of tank. Loosen rubber fuel line at both ends and see if fuel is flowing. This will tell you if fuel can get to carburetor.
Usually these measures get the thing going or tell you if professional service is needed.
With your model number I could see if it has a low oil safety switch I have seen them go bad (check your oil level )
With all wires un plugged from the coil you should have spark
if not coil is bad .
Use another spark plug to test for spark, ground the side of the plug by holding it against some-ting metal on the engine , spark
plug wire hooked to the plug. leave a spark plug in the cylinder
head so gas wont fly out and hit the test spark plug catching fire (seen it done).