I have the wires and the former but not the adhesive. Recently my Jlaudio 12 w0 burnt out. I usually repair speakers and make coils for low wattage speakers for home use. I use epoxy to make the coils for these speakers. I tried making a coil for a high powered car speaker using epoxy but the coil failed at an early stage. Does anybody know what kind of high temperature adhesive is available to make high powered voice coils? I want to know the name of the best adhesive available for attaching copper wires to kapton formers that can withstand searing temperatures(above 600f) and thermal shock. Also tell me how can I access this type of adhesive. Please help!
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get it serviced the think is the heating coil may have got burnt out if you need to replace it remove the cover below and take out the coil carefully with the terminals ..now replace the coil of same wattage usually 700watts in the same way
there can also be a problem with some wire got burnt due to heating .try to find the wire located near/attached with the heating coil and check whether everything is correct
Speaker lesson here. For space and time, I'll not get into certain nomenclature. Working from top to bottom, you have the cone, rubber surround, basket, spider, voic coil former, voice coil, and the magnet. The binding posts are connected to the tensil leads which connect to the spider and the voice coil. As the woofer is positively + and negatively - charged, it creates a magnetic field which moves the woofer up and down. There is a small gap between the magnet and the voice coil and former that's called a magnetic gap. This gap is what helps the speaker to move up and down, and creates the Xmax. The Xmax of the woofer is the maximum linear excursion the woofer can travel without causing permanent damage. With a blown speaker, normally the voice coil and voice coil former have been pushed out of the correct magnetic gap, usually around the top of the magnet. That means that the only way to fix it is to take the woofer completely apart. My suggestion is to just go and spend the money. A blown speaker is a sign of abuse, and voids warranties from the majority of companies out there to include Kicker.
Its the power transistors that would be affected by low voltage. It delivered till it finally gave up 'cos the output wattage to be generated at low voltage means more current flowing through the equipment. This high current will adversely affect all small solenoid valves & transistors and IC's. Even failure of one section of any IC is rarely detectable with the naked eye. It has to be thoroughly checked with a multi-meter to assess the damage correctly......sodeep
Crossovers are made with wire coils, electrolytic capacitors and resistors.
Capacitors may get leaky or blown with time and heavy use, and are quite easy to find, just be sure to use the same polarity, capacity and voltage rating and to respect the polarity if it's a polarized capacitor.
There may also be a burnt out resistor or a coil. Resistors can be obtained and replaced (same resistance and wattage) and wire coils can be rewound (same amount of wire of the same wire gauge).
Another possibility is a partially damaged wire on the speaker itself. This is the braided curl wire that goes from the speaker membrane to the cable connection lugs on the speaker armature, and it may be damaged at the membrane side or the lug side.
It usually happens from what you call "overcooking".
To repair this it will require some soldering skills, but it's a bit hard to solder that type of wire, as it tends to oxydize and is difficult to clean prior to soldering, it may be difficult to access it, depending on the speaker structure(an alternative to this is to replace the speaker itself).
There may be some physical damage to the membranes if the sound is present but is of a bad quality (a slightly damaged membrane may be repaired using some rubber glue, but it will never return the speaker to the original condition).
These are just some suggestions, hope they can help you get closer to a solution.
Just had a look at both amp and sub on the JL Audio website. The amp runs from 1.5-4ohms. 4ohms at 14.5V. The sub is running dual 4 ohms coils. That's what the D-4 means. So should be an easy set up. The amp has two mono outputs, so one for each coil. It looks like the perfect wattage to run the sub real nice. Web page for amp: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=439 Web page for sub: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=18
12W3v2-D4 sealed or ported enclosure use.
Sealed 1.25 ft3 23" x 14" x 10"
Ported 1.75 ft3 29" x 14" x 12.25" - Slot port size 1.375" x 12.5" x 23.75"
Fc: 47.4 Hz F3: 41.3 Hz Qtc: 0.83 Recommended Port Tuning: 30.3 Hz
http://www.simplyspeakers.com/speakerrepairinstructions.htm go with the repair .those r good subs,very expensive. i repaired a pokl 12" sub cone and surround foam. never had a problem. save me 300 bucks.the cone you can fix by using the same material that it is made off.if paper use rubbeer glue. if plastic ,i used a 2 part epoxy,airplane glue.didn't look pretty but did the job.rating please
Sorry to burst your bubble, but you CAN'T rebuild the coil, for a multitude of reasons. It's THEORRETICALLY possible, but pragmatically IMpossible. Trust me, I know. Yes, your speaker is glued together (with VERY strong glues. When you dismantle a speaker you have to replace many parts including the surround and spider...). With that said.... There ARE shops that can repair speakers (and, no, they generally don't handwind coils...), but they are far and few and pretty expensive. A base model sub like that would't be economical to repair. I don't know where you're at, but the only one I know of is "The Circuit Shop" in Grand Rapids, MI. feel free to google them and call for a quote.
You see that black round on the middle, ussually they put name print (infinity). You have to take that to access the voice coil. You can use a soldering iron to heat up the adhesive but make sure you dont burn it. Use a low wattage soldering iron.