I'm scratching my head on this one. The freezer seems to be plenty cold -- between 5 and 10 degrees, but the fridge won't get below 50. It has worked before, from the day we bought it (new) over a year ago until last month.
I have defrosted for 72 hours, removed the panel at the back of the freezer to see that the fan moves freely, the coils look great, and the three vents between the fridge and the freezer area aren't clogged.
I've also checked the seals around the fridge door, and it's as good as new.
There are three vents between the freezer and fridge -- two passive vents on the sides, and one central vent that's ducted to a fan at the top of the freezer compartment. The left (passive) and center (ducted) have styrofoam inserts, the right (passive) vent does not have any insert.
What the heck else can I check?
Thanks!
Hey Dog, thanks for the suggestion. I replaced the thermostat, and now the freezer goes down to -20(F) but the fridge is still around +60F. I can rate your solution "Thanks for Trying" if you want, but I don't want to bring down your rating percentage. Any other ideas?Hey Dog, thanks for the suggestion.
I replaced the thermostat, and now the freezer goes down to -20(F) but the fridge is still around +60F.
I can rate your solution "Thanks for Trying" if you want, but I don't want to bring down your rating percentage. Any other ideas?
Okay, the thermostat may have been bad but it may not have been. What WAS bad was the evaporator fan in the freezer. For this fridge, the fan draws air up from the fridge via the central vent, pushing it out into the freezer. This allows colder freezer air to flow down through the two side vents.
My fan stopped spinning, which is why the fridge wasn't cool. I called a bunch of parts stores, but they all balked at the word "Haier" -- saying it would have to be special-ordered, and would likely be expensive. I finally found a place that was willing to actually LOOK at the fan, and she immediately said "Huh. Looks just like a standard whirlpool fan. Let me grab one and check." I replaced it with an OEM brand -- Supco SM-338 -- which is a replacement for GE WR60X162. I had to snip the wires from my old fan and crimp on spade lugs to attach to the new fan.
All set now, and hopefully this comment (and Google) will help somebody else down the road.Okay, the thermostat may have been bad but it may not have been. What WAS bad was the evaporator fan in the freezer. For this fridge, the fan draws air up from the fridge via the central vent, pushing it out into the freezer. This allows colder freezer air to flow down through the two side vents.
My fan stopped spinning, which is why the fridge wasn't cool. I called a bunch of parts stores, but they all balked at the word "Haier" -- saying it would have to be special-ordered, and would likely be expensive. I finally found a place that was willing to actually LOOK at the fan, and she immediately said "Huh. Looks just like a standard whirlpool fan. Let me grab one and check."
I replaced it with an OEM brand -- Supco SM-338 -- which is a replacement for GE WR60X162. I had to snip the wires from my old fan and crimp on spade lugs to attach to the new fan.
All set now, and hopefully this comment (and Google) will help somebody else down the road.
AnonymousNov 01, 2007
I have to keep making my fridge to cut in.The dial is always up on 4(5 being the highest)We have to turn the dial in the moring to make the fan to work and when we get home in the evening she has everything defrost in the freezer,and the water in the fridge is warmI have to keep making my fridge to cut in.The dial is always up on 4(5 being the highest)We have to turn the dial in the moring to make the fan to work and when we get home in the evening she has everything defrost in the freezer,and the water in the fridge is warm
unit is only 15 months old, problem has been developing over a couple of weeks as food is fridge section seems not very cool, or even warm.
here are some details, may or may not be related to problem. frost seems to have been building up on bottom freezer door upper portion lately. Also when freezer door is closed it then becomes difficult to open fridge door as if vacuum had developed in fridge section. with a wait period the fridge door is easier to open.
last night we tried a manual defrost. emptied freezer and put hair dryer to back panel of freezer where vent open to the evaporator coils. this morning fridge section still at 68. water tray at bottom back of unit was full so I sponged out the water. the condenser fan was seen operating at this time.
This unit has two vents at bottom rear shelf of fridge section, as far as I can tell they seemed unobstructed. They was some standing water at bottom of fridge section but there did not seem to be a drain at this point. I sponged out the standing water.
Over the year that we have had this unit I would say that it did make a noise that I was not used to in previous refrigerators. It was what I would describe as an overly loud impulsive knocking or thumping noise that would occur in groups of 3 or 4 as part of it's normal cycling. I never worried too much about it since the unit seemed to be running ok.
now i'm thinking maybe there is a fan not running that could explain lack of cold air flow to the fridge section. One last observation, turning the freezer and fridge cold control to the max setting of 7 (from 4) overnight did not make any difference in fridge temp of 68.kenmore 596.75239402 bottom freezer refrigerator
freezer seems fine, fridge at at 68 degrees
unit is only 15 months old, problem has been developing over a couple of weeks as food is fridge section seems not very cool, or even warm.
here are some details, may or may not be related to problem. frost seems to have been building up on bottom freezer door upper portion lately. Also when freezer door is closed it then becomes difficult to open fridge door as if vacuum had developed in fridge section. with a wait period the fridge door is easier to open.
last night we tried a manual defrost. emptied freezer and put hair dryer to back panel of freezer where vent open to the evaporator coils. this morning fridge section still at 68. water tray at bottom back of unit was full so I sponged out the water. the condenser fan was seen operating at this time.
This unit has two vents at bottom rear shelf of fridge section, as far as I can tell they seemed unobstructed. They was some standing water at bottom of fridge section but there did not seem to be a drain at this point. I sponged out the standing water.
Over the year that we have had this unit I would say that it did make a noise that I was not used to in previous refrigerators. It was what I would describe as an overly loud impulsive knocking or thumping noise that would occur in groups of 3 or 4 as part of it's normal cycling. I never worried too much about it since the unit seemed to be running ok.
now i'm thinking maybe there is a fan not running that could explain lack of cold air flow to the fridge section. One last observation, turning the freezer and fridge cold control to the max setting of 7 (from 4) overnight did not make any difference in fridge temp of 68.
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159 Answers
Re:
Haier refrigerators have been known to have the cold control go bad. it only sense's the temp in the fresh food section so that would be why the freezer is still ok. The problem is the control is cutting out to fast and not letting the temp go lower. from what you said i would take that there is good air flow between the freezer and the fresh food compartment. so the only thing it could be is the cold control. I would replace it and you should be all set.
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Modern consumer refrigerators only have coils in the freezer. In the lower back of the freezer there is a small fan and possible a damper (flap that opens/closes) to push cold air from the freezer to the refrigerator. Given that the freezer is 18 deg, it's probably cold enough to keep the fridge area at typically 34 deg.
So the cooling system (compressor, coils, thermostat) are not working properly to keep the freezer at, typically 0 deg. Possible causes: partial loss of refrigerant gas, icing around evaporator coils (in freezer), compressor failing, dust clogging condenser coils (under fridge), condenser fan clogged or broken (under fridge), thermostat failure.
I'd start with condenser. Remove the slotted trim at the bottom front and look in with a flashlight. Are the coils clean? Pull out the fridge and remove the lower back cover (usually cardboard). You can now see the coils and fan. Clean and blow them out.
If it's icing, it probably means freezer door not closing tight. If auto-defrost not working properly it would probably get worse over the period of a few days so not likely.
THE FREEZER HAS FROZEN PAST THE POINT OF DEFROST;TURN FRIDGE OFF AND MANUALLY DEFROST ALL THE ICE IN THE FREEZER SECTION AND ALL AIRWAYS TO FRIDGE SECTION.
The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper)
between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through
it.There is a flap you adjust with the
fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the
fridge temp and that the fan in the freezer is running when the compressor runs.
Is the fan that moves the air from the freezer to fridge running If there is a switch in cabinet somewhere the freezer door would contract it, with door open push in switch hear the fan both are good. Don't hear fan check evaporator or freezer fan and that switch it may be a duel switch open light closed fan run. Tricky there are light switches, when out light on or when switch is in its lights out
We have a Kenmore Coldspot Model # 106.8770687 and the freezer is cold and keeping things frozen, but seems to be frosting over and the refrigerator is warm at 40 to 50 degrees ... any help regarding what to check is helpful! Or a schematic / manual
You said, freezer is fine the refrigerator is 50-65 does not get colder than
50.the evaporator fan is working but it seems to be blowing very little
air
Have a 1998 Hotpoint Model # CTX16CAZDRAD Serial # ZS738209. The
refrigerator is not cooling. Temp is at 66 degrees with setting at 5.
The Freezer is working, but it seems to be running all the time. Please
help!
There are a few things that come to mind!
The Freezer is working, but it seems to be running all the time, you said!.
This could be a bad thermostat!
But lets try some simple maintenance first!
Is your freezer packed too the hilt with packages???????
Where the articles cover the air vents in the freezer?
The freezer and the fridge share the cold air and the passages must not
be blocking the cold air from moving out of the freezer!.Search your
freezer !
Also your fridge is 10 years old!
Did you ever remove the plastic grille at the bottom of the fridge
along the front, and GENTLY run a refrigerator brush along the black
metal tubes running back and forth under the fridge?
( You can buy this brush at any hardware store $10.)
They must not be covered in ten years of lint and dust. These narrow
tubes carry the freon and run in this parallel fashion back and forth,
so they are cooled by the air being **** through them.
if not and they overheat your fridge will get warm.
If the tubes are found to be covered or submerged in dust sometimes I
have found them one to two inches thick in dust, and sometimes they
are even not visible until you clean the dust out.
Then it will take 10 to 24 hours for the system to get back to full
working temperature again. As long as the heat did not cause permanent
damage!
if these are not the answer, then you may need a hands on diagnoses!
BUT, most of the time these two things are what I find!
Let me know how it goes!!!!!!!!
Thank You for asking my advice!
Huuum Please remember to leave a rating for me!
Hey Dog, thanks for the suggestion.
I replaced the thermostat, and now the freezer goes down to -20(F) but the fridge is still around +60F.
I can rate your solution "Thanks for Trying" if you want, but I don't want to bring down your rating percentage. Any other ideas?
Okay, the thermostat may have been bad but it may not have been. What WAS bad was the evaporator fan in the freezer. For this fridge, the fan draws air up from the fridge via the central vent, pushing it out into the freezer. This allows colder freezer air to flow down through the two side vents.
My fan stopped spinning, which is why the fridge wasn't cool. I called a bunch of parts stores, but they all balked at the word "Haier" -- saying it would have to be special-ordered, and would likely be expensive. I finally found a place that was willing to actually LOOK at the fan, and she immediately said "Huh. Looks just like a standard whirlpool fan. Let me grab one and check."
I replaced it with an OEM brand -- Supco SM-338 -- which is a replacement for GE WR60X162. I had to snip the wires from my old fan and crimp on spade lugs to attach to the new fan.
All set now, and hopefully this comment (and Google) will help somebody else down the road.
I have to keep making my fridge to cut in.The dial is always up on 4(5 being the highest)We have to turn the dial in the moring to make the fan to work and when we get home in the evening she has everything defrost in the freezer,and the water in the fridge is warm
kenmore 596.75239402 bottom freezer refrigerator
freezer seems fine, fridge at at 68 degrees
unit is only 15 months old, problem has been developing over a couple of weeks as food is fridge section seems not very cool, or even warm.
here are some details, may or may not be related to problem. frost seems to have been building up on bottom freezer door upper portion lately. Also when freezer door is closed it then becomes difficult to open fridge door as if vacuum had developed in fridge section. with a wait period the fridge door is easier to open.
last night we tried a manual defrost. emptied freezer and put hair dryer to back panel of freezer where vent open to the evaporator coils. this morning fridge section still at 68. water tray at bottom back of unit was full so I sponged out the water. the condenser fan was seen operating at this time.
This unit has two vents at bottom rear shelf of fridge section, as far as I can tell they seemed unobstructed. They was some standing water at bottom of fridge section but there did not seem to be a drain at this point. I sponged out the standing water.
Over the year that we have had this unit I would say that it did make a noise that I was not used to in previous refrigerators. It was what I would describe as an overly loud impulsive knocking or thumping noise that would occur in groups of 3 or 4 as part of it's normal cycling. I never worried too much about it since the unit seemed to be running ok.
now i'm thinking maybe there is a fan not running that could explain lack of cold air flow to the fridge section. One last observation, turning the freezer and fridge cold control to the max setting of 7 (from 4) overnight did not make any difference in fridge temp of 68.
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