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Oil leaked out over a couple days from the casing back by belt and clutch probably aseal but if so or not is it a tuff job

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Tom Diffin

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With out the proper tools it is a tuff job check the drain plug and the 3/16s allen bolts that hold the cover on might be loose

Posted on Jan 15, 2009

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My oil light on a 1999 nissan sentra is coming on. I changed the oil and oil filter about a week ago before light came on. What could be the issue?

Have you observed any leaks or loss of oil in your engine?

Though this may not be the case, my daily driver suddenly started flashing the oil light after a couple days. I saw some oil spots in the garage a few days before finding out that I was in for a very costly repair...

The rear oil seal, in between the crankshaft and the flywheel was dislodged and eventually needed replacing.

Hope this is not the case for you, and it is a simple fix for you by checking if the oil filter is properly seated and there are no leaks. Pull out your oil dipstick and ensure that there is enough oil in the crank case to flow around the engine during operation.

Many times the oil light coming on is an indicator of inadequate oil pressure, and should never be dismissed as a simple error in the system, regardless of having a proper lube job done recently.

Hope this helps.


The leak is probably unrelated to the oil change, at least in a bad way. Many vehicles are poorly designed for oil changes. Oil gets on several components under the engine and could leak for a couple of days. You'll have to find the leak yourself if they are unwilling or unable to do it and you don't want another shop to look at it just yet.

Keep in mind that the older a vehicle gets, the more leaks it has. Place a piece of clean cardboard under the vehicle when you park it. Check above where you see the spot on the cardboard if it still leaks. Since the oil is traveling down, keep tracing upwards until you don't see oil leaking or seeping and you have found the location of the leak. Keep in mind as well that oil can be slung by the engine belts if you have any seals on the front of the engine leaking.

How hard is to chagne an oil pan gasket?

Here is the procedure. You DO have to remove the flexplate cover to get to the back 2 bolts. There are also a couple struts on the sides that block a couple bolts, if i recall correctly. I think you can do it in a couple hours.

3.3L & 3.8L Engines

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
  2. Drain the engine oil.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Negative battery cable Engine oil dipstick Drive belt splash shield Strut to transaxle attaching bolt and loosen the strut to engine attaching bolts Transaxle case cover Oil pan fasteners Oil pan and gasket
To install:
  1. Clean the oil pan and all mating surfaces.
  2. Apply a 1 / 8 inch bead of gasket material at the parting line of the chain case cover and the real seal retainer.
  3. Install or connect the following:

    New gasket on the oil pan Oil pan. Torque the bolts to 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm). Transaxle case cover All bending brace bolts Drive belt splash shield Engine oil dipstick Negative battery cable
  4. Fill the crankcase to the correct level.
  5. Start the engine, check for leaks and repair if necessary.

Cannot remove bit from keyless chuck

soak it down with oil and let it sit a couple of days. them tap around the chuck with a hammer lightly. put the key in the chuck and try to move it. if it moves a little then go backward then forward. keep going untill you move it all the way down. if that doesn't work you will have to use a sawzall to cut it off. that is a tuff job.
Feb 08, 2010 • Drills

4 cyl 5 speed. oil comes out and sreads a ring

It sounds like you front main crankshaft seal is worn out and leaking, the job is quite involved and if you are going to tackle it buy a haynes repair manual and a flywheel puller if you are not mechanically skilled I would not recomend this job. If you are going to tackle the job replace the water pump and timing belt while your in there the oil will degrade the belt and failure will result within a year.

Tub won't agitate and when it does spin, makes a grinding noise.

its probably in the gear case. or spin tube bearings. did you see any oil leaks on the gear case or clutch and break area.

Oil leak on the rotor timing out put shaft

If you mean the camshaft seal, yes, you would need to pull the timing belt and sprocket off, and if you are anywhere near the service interval for the belt, replace it and the water pump (unless the water pump is very easy to service, and the tensioner.  
You will probably need a (gear/sprocket) puller to get the sprocket off and a another type of (seal) puller to get the seal out.  You could probably extract the old seal with a screwdriver, but it's not recommended.  Get a Haynes manual (around $20) before you even contemplate doing this youself. If you haven't done this before, are mechanically inclined. and have all the tools, you will spend about 1/2 a day to do either the cam seal by itself, or the seal, timing belt, tensioner and water pump.  Once you have it all apart, the last three components will only add an hour to the job, and you won't be stranded when the timing belt breaks.
good luck ..ajm

Kenmore Washer

the problem could be several different things depending on the make or model. quick answer would be to replace the belt(s). after a while belts stretch and become worn. not so quick answer would be a problem with your transmission and or motor.
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