I have a Whirlpool Model LGR5620KQ Heat Problem ....
It seems common, but the model # is not valid it seems when searching for help. Heats up, takes forever to dry ,hi / lo coils and fuse good, glows and flames sometimes but when I took it apart I see no wheel for the tension bar.? I cleaned all lint . any help would be appreciated.
Thank You , It was the coils # de382 on the burner, cool tested o.k. but failed after a few cycles. This is like sitting in a bar or calling tech support most people with common sense and resources can get the answer by "not" thinking about it for a few minutes. mine was pretty wiedrd though. thought it would be a timer or fuse...
Thans , againThank You , It was the coils # de382 on the burner, cool tested o.k. but failed after a few cycles. This is like sitting in a bar or calling tech support most people with common sense and resources can get the answer by "not" thinking about it for a few minutes. mine was pretty wiedrd though. thought it would be a timer or fuse...
Thans , again
AnonymousNov 15, 2007
no heat , timer dose not workno heat , timer dose not work
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135 Answers
Re:
Here's a site that shows exploded view parts diagrams for your model, which can be useful when working on it. -->
http://www.partselect.com/MultiModels.aspx?ModelNum=LGR5620KQ&searchTerm=&RefineSearch=0
A dryer needs two things, heat & airflow. If you have the heat, look for a kinked vent hose or a blocked vent louver where it blows outside the house.
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Your model is not valid. Belt is accessible on most whirlpool made dryers from the front. Top must be raised after removing screws under filter. Then front can be removed to access belt.
Although this isn't a common problem, one of the thermostats that controls the temperature in your dryer may break and cause the dryer to heat poorly. If so, you need to replace it. The thermostat is usually a small, round, black device mounted to an oblong steel plate. The plate is mounted to the internal ductwork with two screws.
You either have an element out or your t-stats are out. You have a thermal fuse also that could go out. On most dryers, if the t-stat goes out, you should replace all the t-stats and thermal fuse. Pull the element out first and if there are no visible breaks or burn marks on the coils, it's not the element. Call or email us and we will be sure to get the proper parts right out to you asap.
So,. basically your drum doesnt turn. SO your getting heat still even though the drum isnt turning. Is this right? Sounds strange??? Do you hear any humming noise when you push the start button? I need to know a little more about the problem because im kinda confused as how you decribed the problem. Iv never seen a dryer heat but the drum not spinning. especially your model dryer. Its electric heat right? because if the drum doesnt spin, maybe your motor is bad. and if your motor is bad, then your heating element wont heat up because the centrifical switch in the motor is not switching to complete the circuit to the heating element. So this is why im confused when you said" Dryer heats when knob turned but when "push button" pressed, drum doesnt run." Because your belt wraps around the motor pully and the motor is what makes the drum turn. Like i said, i never seen this model dryer heat with out the motor operating. So if you can give me some more info, ill do my best to help you out....Thanks!!!!
Hi, there are three issues that will cause a no heat situation in a microwave. these issue are a failed Magnetron, busted cut-off fuse and, failed diode.
I recommend checking all these area that are located inside the microwave for faults.
The most common issue will be a failed Magnetron.
The diode and, fuse will be located on the noise filter assembly.
Your issue is;
"my whirlpool dryer has no heat. the drum turns."
Based on the information provided above, I am unable to access my database to provide you with exacting information. A valid model number was not provided. However, I have provided some common solutions to help guide you in your search.
This information is for an electric, generic model dryer only! My Solution is: Following this link, http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SmartSearch.aspx, provides valuable D.I.Y. safety information on the make and model number of your appliance. In order to access your product information, you will need to enter the model number stamped on the manufacturers product information data tag, located on the unit, and not in the User’s Manual. Note: A volt-ohm meter is beneficial in performing electrical tests.
Temperature Switch; make sure a positive heat selection has been made, still no heat, then check these:
This link shows disassembly of a version 2 Whirlpool dryer: http://www.repairclinic.com/0100_16.asp Power from the house Heating element Thermal fuse Wiring Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.
Heating element
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.
Thermal fuse
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)
Wiring
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.
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Thank You , It was the coils # de382 on the burner, cool tested o.k. but failed after a few cycles. This is like sitting in a bar or calling tech support most people with common sense and resources can get the answer by "not" thinking about it for a few minutes. mine was pretty wiedrd though. thought it would be a timer or fuse...
Thans , again
no heat , timer dose not work
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