While cooking dinner, I opened oven to turn meat and noticed inside light flicker a few times. I turned my burner up on high to get water to boil---nothing. The exhaust fan ran until the oven cooled down but the clock went out and nothing would work. Tried to rest the breaker-nothing. I tried the burner again and the range made a weird noise, the clock blinked but nothing. After about 12 hours, the burner was in the on position, same weird noise,clock blinked except when I hit the cancel button---clock worked. Tried to use the stove top to boil water but didn't make it to boil before it quit again. I give up! Please, any ideas????
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Re: Stove/oven gets hot then shuts off
Shut the breaker off!
These are the exact symptoms that a tenant of ours reported for their range. I went to check the range and found that one of the power wires on the terminal block in the back of the range was burning itself up. It had actually started a small wire fire.
You need to pull the range out of it's hole and unplug it. Remove the panel in the back above where the cable goes into the range. Examine the power wires and terminal block carefully, because I bet you'll find one of the wires is burning up and needs to be repaired.
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I suggest you roast the pork at 250 degrees Fahrenheit, so the cooking time will take longer. When you return home, pull the roast out of the oven and insert your meat thermometer. The internal temperature of the meat needs to be between 140-145 degrees F. If it is not, put the pork roast back in the oven and turn the heat up to 350 degrees F. Check the internal meat temperature every 15 min.
You CAN set the cooking temperature even lower to allow for an even longer cooking time. But NEVER set it lower than 200 degrees F.
Note: Be sure to turn your oven off when no longer needed. Plus, allow the meat to rest 10-15 min. before carving.
you have just triggered an exothermic reaction of light hydrocarbons and oxygen as a result of introducing an external heat source trigger. Which could possibly result in the cooking of some dinner. Yum.
No worries Barbara, you have done no damage. Unless dinner burned....
Look at the back of your range there should be schemetic for your power control board. look for defective burner wire going into relay. There should be 5 relays in rows. Realy is the problem. I had the same problem with my front left burner stuck on high. After replacing everything works okay.
Bat, your model number is right on accurate. Here's the scoop... the F3-E2 means the temp sensor inside the oven cavity needs replacing, but I doubt that your problem is the sensor.
The problem is your "microcomputer". I call it an ERC for short. There are 3 separate circuits on your ERC; low voltage for your keypad, medium voltage for the mechanical relays and high voltage for you elements. When you program a cook time/temperature, the ERC translates this into medium voltage and activates the proper relay on the ERC (i.e... "bake", "bake w/ convection", etc...) to send high voltage to the proper component.
All of that to say this, the relay on the board that activates the bake element is "welded" shut. When powered off, the relay won't open up! This will result in run-away temps. I've seen this before on Whirlpools.
The ERC will have to be replaced, the part number is #8302994 and lists for ~$180.00 at your local appliance parts store. If you need assistance with the replacement procedure, post back. If you decide to get in there without posting back, DISCONNECT POWER AT THE BREAKER PRIOR TO ANY SERVICE.