Question about GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

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Replaced mother board now damper clocsed

2cnd time this has happened.evap.motor wouldn`t run,replaced motherboard.evap.motor came back on. 1 day later damper stuck closed,just replaced damper thermister,to early to tell if this worked,will post later.any thoughts?

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  • ripcord Aug 18, 2007

    sorry about the rating,your advise is truley apprciated!however i had to call ge,turns out the replacement boards are wirered for two thermisters`some models only have one,check serial numbers per instructions that come with the board(you think i did that-no)you have to cut the wire on j9 pin2`works just fine now. thanks for your help anyway.



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Rip, couple of checks to do: On the main board, connector J3. On the harness you should have 400 ohms on J3-1 (yellow) to J3-2 (red/black) and 400 ohms on J3-3 (white/brown) to J3-4 (blue yellow. Same values should be at the damper motor. If you don't have those values, damper motor defective. One other check, you have 10 seconds to do this on power up, so get some help. Plug in the refer. Check for 6 VDC. DC voltage now from pins J3-1 to J3-4. If you don't have this it's the board. If you do have this and the dampers not working, replace the damper. Catriver.

Posted on Aug 16, 2007

  • Ron Marek
    Ron Marek Aug 18, 2007

    Since you gave this a crappy rating, why don't you let me know what you found. Thanks, Catriver.



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Be sure all zones are calling for cooling. Press the purge override and verify air flow on all zones. If one is still not working verify the board is sending voltage to that damper. A meter is a huge help but if all lights are on chances are the damper is stuck. You should be able to free it up but it will just happen again. Either replace damper motor, replace damper or if you can figure out if it is a "spring open" damper, get it open and unhook the wire to that zone. This will keep it open at all times because it can not "power close". Provided that zone CAN stay open all the time. Keep me posted!!

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Sarct, the question is, was the freezer side ok, if it was, I would suspect the damper not opening. If the freezer side was warm too, then I would suspect the evaporator thermistor not sending the signal to the board to terminate the defrost. Have the tech first check the continuity at connector J3. He should have 400ohms at J3-1 to J3-2 and the same at J3-3 to j3-4. If he doesn't get those readings have him check at the damper motor itself. If he doesn't have it there, replace the damper motor. If the damper motor passes all the checks then it's on to the evaporator thermistor. Have him check the resistance. At 5 degrees it should ohm at approx 36K ohms. The evap thermostat is redundant to the defrost operation. It's there as a back up in the event the evap thermistor fails to terminate the defrost. It's normally closed and will open at 140 degrees.

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I have a side by side whirlpool fridge and the freezer is fine but the fridge is now freezing everything. It's about 11 years old.

Since you stand to loose all the food I would call a service tech ASAP. But here are the most common reasons for the problem you have.
Cause 1
The Evaporator Coils are Frosted Over The defrost heater assembly turns on a few times throughout the day to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost heater assembly is defective, frost will continue to accumulate on the evaporator coils, and the coils will become plugged with frost. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, the airflow through the coils will be restricted, causing the refrigerator not to cool. Check the evaporator coils to determine if they are frosted over. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, test each component of the defrost system.
Cause 2
Evaporator Fan Motor The evaporator fan motor draws cold air over the evaporator coils and circulates it throughout the freezer. If the evaporator fan is not working, the freezer or refrigerator will not cool adequately. To determine if the evaporator fan motor is defective, try turning the fan blade by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, replace the fan motor. Additionally, if the motor is unusually noisy, replace it. Finally, if the motor does not run at all, use a multimeter to test the motor windings for continuity. If the windings do not have continuity, replace the evaporator fan motor..
Cause 3
Damper Control Assembly The air damper control opens and closes to let the proper amount of cold air into the refrigerator compartment. If the damper does not open properly, it won't let enough cold air into the refrigerator. Check the damper control to determine if it is broken or stuck closed.

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Zis480mnc ge monogram built in refer temp varies from 34 to 48 several times a day.

Try replacing that evap thermistor. The diagnostics on thermistors can be wrong. If it is rounded on the end, replace it. There is a damper between the freezer and refrigerator. There may be a refrigerator fan motor in the damper assembly, It could be bad. It could be a bad control board. When you run diagnostics there is one function that checks all the fans.

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What will cause a damper between the freezer and fridge on a side by side to stop working?

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most likely you have a bad damper,go here to see it
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Rather than go thru GE, you can found a new one online for 66 bucks. You can replaced it in about ten minutes and it's all fixed.
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