Replaced mother board now damper clocsed

Be sure all zones are calling for cooling. Press the purge override and verify air flow on all zones. If one is still not working verify the board is sending voltage to that damper. A meter is a huge help but if all lights are on chances are the damper is stuck. You should be able to free it up but it will just happen again. Either replace damper motor, replace damper or if you can figure out if it is a "spring open" damper, get it open and unhook the wire to that zone. This will keep it open at all times because it can not "power close". Provided that zone CAN stay open all the time. Keep me posted!!

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Sarct, the question is, was the freezer side ok, if it was, I would suspect the damper not opening. If the freezer side was warm too, then I would suspect the evaporator thermistor not sending the signal to the board to terminate the defrost. Have the tech first check the continuity at connector J3. He should have 400ohms at J3-1 to J3-2 and the same at J3-3 to j3-4. If he doesn't get those readings have him check at the damper motor itself. If he doesn't have it there, replace the damper motor. If the damper motor passes all the checks then it's on to the evaporator thermistor. Have him check the resistance. At 5 degrees it should ohm at approx 36K ohms. The evap thermostat is redundant to the defrost operation. It's there as a back up in the event the evap thermistor fails to terminate the defrost. It's normally closed and will open at 140 degrees.

Since you stand to loose all the food I would call a service tech ASAP. But here are the most common reasons for the problem you have.
Cause 1
The Evaporator Coils are Frosted Over The defrost heater assembly turns on a few times throughout the day to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost heater assembly is defective, frost will continue to accumulate on the evaporator coils, and the coils will become plugged with frost. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, the airflow through the coils will be restricted, causing the refrigerator not to cool. Check the evaporator coils to determine if they are frosted over. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, test each component of the defrost system.
Cause 2
Evaporator Fan Motor The evaporator fan motor draws cold air over the evaporator coils and circulates it throughout the freezer. If the evaporator fan is not working, the freezer or refrigerator will not cool adequately. To determine if the evaporator fan motor is defective, try turning the fan blade by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, replace the fan motor. Additionally, if the motor is unusually noisy, replace it. Finally, if the motor does not run at all, use a multimeter to test the motor windings for continuity. If the windings do not have continuity, replace the evaporator fan motor..
Cause 3
Damper Control Assembly The air damper control opens and closes to let the proper amount of cold air into the refrigerator compartment. If the damper does not open properly, it won't let enough cold air into the refrigerator. Check the damper control to determine if it is broken or stuck closed.

Try replacing that evap thermistor. The diagnostics on thermistors can be wrong. If it is rounded on the end, replace it. There is a damper between the freezer and refrigerator. There may be a refrigerator fan motor in the damper assembly, It could be bad. It could be a bad control board. When you run diagnostics there is one function that checks all the fans.

Recheck the board wiring, and make sure the damper has power when the thermostat calls for cooling in the fridge. If there is power, it's the motor or its connection to the baffle plate. If no power, it's the board.

most likely you have a bad damper,go here to see it
http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Damper/67003410/1025326
all that happens is the evaporator coil in the freezer gets cold,the evap fan blows the cold air to the fridge section and it goes through the damper,when it gets cold enough in the fridge section the thermostat on the damper closes the damper door,your damper broke in the closed position,this is as long as the door wasn't left open or anything like that,if it was the air ducts could have froze up but most likely it will be the damper.go here and it will show you where it is up near the light in the back and it's part number 18.hope this helps
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Amana-Parts/Refrigerator-Parts/Model-ARB2217CWPARB2217CW1/1268/0161000/M0403273/00003?blt=06&prst=&shdMod=

is there any frost on your food packages or on the ceiling where the light is?if so the door was left open and the air vents are froze up or you have a bad damper or evaporator fan motor,open the freezer door,do you hear the fan blowing?if so the fan motor is good,check for ice on the ceiling and packages,if that checks good look at the back inside wall of the freezer,if that's covered with like snow or frost you have a defrost problem or also you have a damper in your model,it's closed and won't open to let the cold air in from the freezer.
http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Damper/R0161050/223353
go here,this is the part,all that happens is the evaporator coil in the freezer gets cold,the evap fan blows the cold air from the freezer up into the fridge section,in your model the damper door opens to let the cold air in,when it gets cold enough the damper closes and that's it,so if the door wasn't left open and the fan is blowing in the freezer you have a bad damper.

First case, whistling sound is what we call "Ghosting". To get rid of this sound one needs to put more gas into the system, but more gas will create the suction pipe to frost up and reducing the gas level will create less cooling. The best solution were to full regenerating Freon gas mean remove it filter it out and charge it back. However this will cost more $100 and basically you can leave it and live with it. No harm is created only the sound appears while running.
Second case were with a loud whistling, like a dying bird stuck in your freezer, you likely have a faulty freezer fan motor and you need to be replaced


Third case were with a lower pitched, sort of gentle whistling sound then you have an issue with the door damper, which allows the air flow from the freezer into the refrigerator. And assuming you don't have any cooling problems, it may simply be a normal occurrence, as some makes and models open and close this damper door automatically, and when it is closed, can sometimes cause a low whistling noise
Fourth case was making a moaning, whistling noise coming from just above the ice maker. It happened when the fan speed changed. We found out that the motherboard was probably defective.
Rather than go thru GE, you can found a new one online for 66 bucks. You can replaced it in about ten minutes and it's all fixed.
Fifth the evaporator fan motor should not change speeds in less than 1 minute of time. The fan motor has two speeds. Usually this is a indication of a failing main board. If you have a meter you can do a voltage check at the J-2 connector on the board. Check for 13VDC between pins J2-3 and J2-8 and 8 to 13VDC between J2-3 and J2-4. If this voltage stays steady, your problem lies in the evaporator fan motor. If this voltage drops out or fluctuates, it's more than likely the board need to be replaced.

all a fridge does is blow cold air from the freezer into the fridge section,so you could have a bad evap fan motor,when you open the freezer door you should hear the fan blowing air around,the air ducts could be frozen from the door being left open,common on bottom freezer machines or if it has a damper in it the damper door could be stuck closed,next time when you ask a question you have to send the model number and brand name so i can help you better.

is you freezer freezing if yes is your evaporator motor in the frezeer running.
if yes then it might be you damper assy that is not opening but on GE'S most of the times that run call with that problem the evap motor is not running does your frige have a computer at the back if you do then you have to trouble soot that computer or call a tech or just repl that board and if it doesn't work just return it