Fan or motor contantly running and howeling

Maybe evaporator fan making noise. After leaving open for long time, there was probably significant frost build up on evaporator near fan.

It is helpful to have the sequence of the blinking red light. This may help:

MODELS: WD-52627 / 52628 / 62627 / 62628 / 62827 / 62927 / 73727 / 73827 / 73927

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3. Error Code Operational Check

Note: The TV must be in "Shut Down" and not have been switched Off, to perform the Error Code Operational

Check. When the TV is switched Off, the code automatically resets to "12" No Error.



Pressing the front panel "DEVICE" and "MENU" buttons at the same time, and holding for 5 seconds,

activates the Error Code Mode. The LED flashes denoting a two digit Error Code, or indicating no problem

has occured since the last Initalization.



Note: The front panel buttons must be used, NOT those on the Remote Control.



• The number of flashes indicates the value of the MSD (tens digit) of the Error Code.

• The flashing then pauses for approximately 1/2 second.

• The LED then flashes indicating the value of the LSD (ones digit) of the Error Code.

• The Error Code is repeated a total of 5 times.



Example: If the Error Code is "23", the LED will flash two times, pause, and then flash three times.



4. Error Codes

The Error Code designations indicating malfunction, or no malfunction, are listed below:

POWER

LED

STATUS

LED

LAMP

LED

Power

Status Condition

Off Yellow Off Low

Power Excess heat. Check Lamp Filter

Off or On Off Yellow No

change

120w usage time over 7000 Hrs.

150W usage time over 3500 Hrs.

Off Off Blinks

Yellow

Low

Power Lamp Cover open

Off Blinks

Yellow Off " Filter Cover Open

Off Off Red Stby Lamp did not turn On

Off Blinks

Red Off Low

Power Fan Stopped

Off Red Off " Circuit failure (short or DVI

connector unplugged)

Abnormal LED Indications

Error Codes "DEVICE" & "MENU"



Error Codes Description



12 No error detected

22 Recovery from Reset

32 Lamp cover is Open

34 Lamp abnormality

35 DM Fan failed (Chassis Fan)

36 Exhaust or Lamp Ballast Fan failed

37 DMD Engine Fan failed

38 Lamp temperature abnormally high. Remove Lamp to check filter.

39 DMD temperature abnormally high

41 Short is detected (Standby Power Supplies)

42 Lamp Fan failed

44 DVI cable between Format and Engine disconnected

46 DMD Temp. Sensor not detected (check DT connector))

47 DM Temperature too high

48 Engine power supply short detected

51 Speaker Drive circuit short detected

52 HDD excess temperature (V30+ & V31 only)

55 HDD Fan Stopped (V30+ & V31 onlyt)

check your themostat fan mode switch to see if it in on or auto. It should be in auto. If this does not stop indoor fan motor, (it may take up to 2 minutes for the fan to stop, preprogrammed shutoff in the thermostat and fan control cards may make you think the fan has not stopped ) If this does not stop the fan the fan control board in your air handler has a green wire shorting to 24 volt signal in the theromostat wire or the contact on the blower control card is stuck and will need replaced.

I have taken one apart. reassembled and the fan would not turn, although there was power to the motor and it wanted to turn.
Sorry this is long...only this is about taking the motor itself apart..and I have yet to find a replacement motor.

1. Tried a little WD 40...(only on iron motor Housing!) nothing.
2. Took apart inside of motor. some rust inside..
3. carefully rubbed clean with WD 40..
4. leaned off WD 40 with contact cleaner...
5. Then worked little bearing loose on back side.
-Kind of turned upon reassembly..
6. Found some silicone High temp lubricant and took motor inside part again.
7. a very thin coat of lubricant inside rotor.
-Re assembled yet again..began to turn at high speed, kept running..24 hrs..
- It .finally turned at silent mode. and continues to work
This may be ar beyond what you want to do, however if all else fails...what else can you do? buy another one?
Tips:
1. mark rotor holders with housing. (do not reverse.)
2. make sure you remove all lint, dust, etc inside.
3. the rotor bearing I had to work by hand again and again repeatedly syringing a little WD 40 at a time to until it turned easily.

Your lamp is rated for 3000 hours. Is the fan working to cool the lamp? When you turn off the projector do you allow the fan to continue to run? If not the lamp is not cooling evenly and the lamp will fail. Th filters should be cleaned regularly and the vents be unobstructed.

It sounds as if the compressor is overheating causing a large current draw throwing your breaker. If the coils are durty on the back....clean them..also clean the coils under the frig by the fan motor.

the pins that protrude into the lamp compartment have a tendency to get out of alignment where the lamp will only make partial contact. It sounds like what youre describing.

Make sure that the condenser coil is not dirty. If so clean it. Have you actually seen the fan in the back of the unit running? It has 2 fan motors. One on the inside of the freezer and one on the back of the unit. The one on the back not working will cause it to get very hot and so will dirty coils.

sound like you have a bad fan motor

it is a bad fan. it also could be a power supply. Quite often the real problem is dirt clogging up the fan(s) to the point that they need to be replaced. Operation of the set in a dirty environment is not a good idea