Fitting a new control switch for the fan oven (model number 10450G)
I broke the pin that the fan oven knob fits onto whilst moving the unit into position
i removed the broken part, making a diagram of where all the wires went
contacted parts dept and got replacement switch (brown box thingy
new pin is in place but i've managed to loose my diagram and can't figure out where to plug in the various wires.
switch to fan oven is the one on the far left as you look at the unit
i have 1 blue, 1 purple and 3 red wires
can anyone help me get back in the good books with the wife? new kitchen ready to roll but for the lack of an oven!
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Re: fitting a new control switch for the fan oven (model...
Sesspod, 2 things...
1.) Pull the oven out and look on the back of it, there may be an envelope back there containing a technical data sheet which includes a wiring diagram. If not on the back, then possibly under the cook top. It is somewhere on your oven, sometimes the hard part is locating it. If you can find it, look closely and you'll see the wiring color and location is labeled.
2.) If you can't locate the tech data sheet, can you post a good macro picture of the back of your new switch so we can see what you're dealing with.
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Is it the actual knob that is broken or the little tab the knob holds onto that is broken. You either need a replacement knob or a replacement switch assuming the know is also the thermostat for the unit. Does that same knob control the fan speed? Temprature or timer?
Hello, I want to tell you about some of the knobs for the temperature control switch, if that is the switch you are referring to.
The way some of the knobs are made, they have a 1/2 moon shape with a metal clip inside them on the backside of the knob. The 1/2 moon shape is also present on the control shaft the knob fits onto. When the knob breaks and splits, the knob rotates around the temperature control shaft without moving anything. From the driver's view, the knob is normal.
You would need to pry off the knob and inspect it, then rotate the temperature control shaft with your fingers or lightly grab it with pliers.
You probably can't any longer as they contained mercury. Whilst this never was a problem, I believe California outlawed all devices for commercial cooking that contained mercury and manufacturers had to stop fitting them. My understanding is that they are not even allowed to hold stock. GOOD NEWS! there is a modification kit that can be retro fitted that turns the unit into an automatic pilot system. It contains a grey control box and some wiring. The original flame switch and spark box are removed and this new box initiates the pilot valve/ignition. I don't have part numbers and you will need to be a really good engineer to fit this mod' kit, but it does work and is pretty reliable, just make sure it doesn't get mounted where it will get too hot.
You need to change the "Simmerstat", take the model number to your local electrical parts supplier/parts counter at your local stove retail shop that sells Simpson stoves and ask for one for that model, make sure you get the right one for the position as some control a single element and some control dual elements.
*** TURN OFF THE WALL SWITCH AND ENSURE NO POWER IS APPLIED TO THE STOVE BEFORE PROCEEDING **** Remove the upper back panel of the stove. Swap wire for wire of the old simmerstat to the new one, remove the knob from the old Simmerstat, undo the nut securing the simmerstat in the oven control panel and discard, fit new one, secure, fit knob, fit back panel, turn on wall switch and test.
Some countrys/states require registered electricians perform this task on electrical appliances so you must ensure you can do this legally before you start and take the relevant safety precautions and don't electrocute yourself.
You can get the timer and the knob from www.searspartsdirect.com or call 1-800-252-1698.
Once you have the part, remove the screws from the back of the control panel, removing the back cover. From there you should see the timer. It will either have one wiring harness or many wires attached to the timer. INSURE UNIT IS UNPLUGGED WITH NO POWER TO IT. If there is a harness, unplug the harness. The timer will be held in place either by a couple screws on the front of the control panel that is normally hidden by the knob AND/OR a screw INSIDE the control panel at the timer. There could also be a plastic tab holding the timer in place. Raise this tab and turn timer until it is free. Remove timer and put new timer in place. Fit harness onto timer.
If there are many wires attached to the old timer, I would hold the new timer in my hand and transfer the wires one-by-one to insure you get the right wires on the right terminal tab. Once wires are transferred, remove old timer and put new timer in place.
At this point. put new knob on the timer on the front of the control panel. Plug unit in, stay clear of exposed wiring, and test dryer. If it works, replace back cover and you are done.
If it doesn't work, further troubleshooting will be needed and Ill need the make and model number.
Hope this helps. Please take a minute to give a testimonial if I've help you.
I can only speak for the 720. If you want a circuit/wiring diagram for this one, then I need an email address. I will then register this on my BT Digital Vault and you can the download the whole manual.
Looking at the diagrams, the neon for the main oven has white and black wires.
The white wire from the main oven neon goes onto the same connector on the thermostat block as the white wire to the oven element. The black wire from the neon goes to a common terminal on the top oven neon, which then goes onto P6 of the top oven switch (still black wire).
If you need any more info, then let me know.