Dryer runs has little heat takes longer timer to dry

You probably fried the magnetron(it actually makes the microwaves that do the cooking). I bet you will find the magnet is broken(from excessive heat). There should be a diagnostic guide sheet somewhere inside the housing(due to running production changes,this is a guide for the pros to test the power supply,magnetron,etc with an ohmmeter to determine which is defective.

this is probaly a clockwork timer you are talking about sounds like the contackts are stuck together in the timer pull knob off take screws out probally 2 disconnect wires from timer and replace they are not so expensive

I have a Maytag that did the same thing. I unplugged it for about 2 minutes, plugged it back in and it is working fine.

Hello,

follow the below instructions:

Unlock your Kenmore dishwasher control panel by pressing and holding the "Heated Dry" button for four seconds.

Press a series of four buttons in quick succession. Press "Heated Dry," "Normal Wash," "Heated Dry" and "Normal Wash" to instruct your Kenmore dishwasher to run a short diagnostic test

Wait for two minutes while your Kenmore dishwasher runs its diagnostic test.

Press the "Cancel/Drain" button once your dishwasher has completed its diagnostic test. This should reset your dishwasher control panel and stop the "Clean" light from blinking repeatedly.
Good luck.

I can adjust the power level so that circuitry seems to be ok. The longer water boil time could be partially due to the colder winter temperature of the inlet water. We'll just cook the food a bit longer as long as the magnetron is still working.

It may have shipping damage, such as a loose or broken connection or heating element.

But if it's brand new, it's under warranty, and they will fix it free.

You can find your nearest Maytag-authorized servicer here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Best guess is your dryer vent might be blocked. Check to ensure the vent hose is clear of lint all the way to its outlet.

The component in the blower fan area is known as the Thermal Fuse. It is supposed to read a short (0 ohms) or something close to it. If it were blown, the dryer would not run at all.

The component on the outside of the heater box you are referring to is the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO). It is also supposed to read a short if good. If this component blows, the dryer will run, but will not heat. If you are getting an infinite reading, it must be replaced.

NOTE: If the TCO is bad, you must also replace the Hi-Limit Thermostat along with it. This is the other component on the heater box that is mounted adjacent to the heating element terminals. Failure to replace BOTH components at the same time can lead to premature failure of any parts you do replace. These parts are commonly sold as a set for this reason. The part number for the replacement kit is 279816.

Replacement parts can be purchased on line at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
appliancepartspros.com
pcappliancerepair.com
repairclinic.com

For assistance, you can refer to the Sears website for some excellent exploded view parts illustrations. The parts I'm referring to are located under the "Bulkhead" section:

Item 1 - Thermal Cut-out/Hi-Limit Thermostat kit
Item 59 - Thermal Fuse - you should not need this part if it checked good.

Now...if the TCO has blown, it usually blows for a reason. The most common cause of dryer failures is poorly installed, kinked, or clogged dryer vent ducting. I would would strongly suggest you inspect the entire length of the ducting and ensure the vent hose is not kinked or clogged anywhere. Also, make sure you leave enough space behind the dryer to make sure the vent hose is not crushed. This will lead to poor ventilation, resulting in longer dry times, poor efficiency and eventual failure of the heating circuits. It is also recommended that you use the semi-rigid metal ducting because it resists kinking, crushing, rodent investation and heat.

CAUTION: Make sure you UNPLUG the dryer before servicing. Dangerous voltage is still present inside the dryer even when it is shut off.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Is the air venting all the way to the outside? If you ducting is clogged, dry times will be much longer. You may also be seeing steam come out the door if you open it halfway thru the cycle if vent is clogged. A crimped hose between the dryer and the wall can cause a similar problem. A clogged vent can also be a fire hazard.

Basicaly you need to know if ot has 110 volts on the primary of the mag transformer. If you do its someting in the cap or the mag tube. If not then its in the relay or the timer.

If it just slowely started taking longer and longer to heat over months then the mag tube has gone bad.