Blown transformer Seem to have a faulty transformer. Can not find any details or replacememt for transformer. Part number 8201-28000-001-0 KS 23h, cna anyone help?

I may have one - call me [email protected] AE6JI 704-470-9020 73's!

Magnetron or the High voltage transformer is faulty
If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Pull up older posts.
http://electro-medical.blogspot.com/

For Fender parts and schematics, call Fender Customer Service at 800-856-9801. I will mention that the cost of replacing a transformer in a 15 watt Squier amp would lead me to just replacing the amp

hello there and welcome to fixya
there are a few things than may have happned i will post the most common ones first ok If the microwave oven doesn't heat the magnetron tube might have burned out. The magnetron uses high voltage, high current DC power to generate the microwave frequency that cooks the food. If the microwave oven is turned on when it is empty this can cause the magnetron to burn out. Once it is burned out it has to be replaced, it's not repairable.
Next ks the thermal fuze
If the microwave doesn't heat the thermal fuse may have blown. It can be tested for continuity. Watch our fuse testing video for more information.
and finley
If the microwave doesn't heat the main control board may be defective. This is not common. When a microwave doesn't heat the problem is usually a faulty door switch or within the high voltage circuit; either the high voltage capacitor, diode, transformer or magnetron.

Could be the small bulbs in the speedo unit have simply blown over time . You just remove the speedo unit and they tun about 90 degrees to unscrew . They cost a few pounds and you can get different colours these days.

Write a program to find out the largest number from a
given unordered array of 8-bit numbers. Store the largest
number in largest variable.

52h, 23h, 56h, 45h, 9Ah, ABh

The buzzing comes from the transformer of the power source - it's overstressed by a short. To find out which part is shorted you must check the voltages on the output lines from the source - the voltage on the one powering the faulty part will be way lower than normal. Follow that line and test every single component until you find it. But on your tv the first thing i would test is the horizontal deflection power transistor - the one that powers the flyback.

Hi
What has happened to the transformer. Does it have an open circuit primary?  Get back to me if you want a fix.
regards robotek

1234 works for me

That model doesn't show up at my normal Samsung US parts supplier. Can you post all the numbers found printed on the transformer? One of them should be the Samsung part number. Normally you can look at the voltage rating of the large filter capacitor on the control board and assume that the AC secondary voltage will be about 2V less (in ACrms) than that DC voltage. Now what I'm saying may seem a bit twisted - and it is - but what I mean is this: If the cap is rated at 15VDC, then I'm saying that a secondary voltage of about 13VAC rms should be a good safe level for testing. To confirm this, multiply 13VAC by .635 (assuming it uses a full-wave rectifier) and you get about 8.26VDC. Then allow for about 50% derating by mulitplying the 8.26VDC by 2. This gives you 16.5VDC, which with my generous derating, is pretty close to the caps 15VDC. Then you can remove the transformer and use an isolated Variac(tm) to apply that calculated AC voltage to the secondary connections at the circuit board to see if it powers up. You can measure the DC voltage across the cap as you adjust the Variac(tm), making sure you don't get too close to or exceed the DC rating of the cap. Once you get it working with a main DC voltage of about 50-75% of what's printed on the main electrolytic capacitor, you can start shopping for a sub transformer. It's much easier if it's not a VFD display which would require a separate filament winding, but there's nothing wrong with using a small second transformer for that. You can even mount them both on the chassis and run long leads to the board. As long as the leads are of sufficient gauge, routed and secured well, and protected from nicks, there's nothing worng with that technique. You should make them long enough that if the front panel is later removed for service, the next technician will be able to see the wires before he pulls them out or otherwise damages them. I would also add a varistor on the primary if there's not already one! *grin*