Question about Maax Calla 6042 Bathtub - 101058-000

2 Answers

MAXX code E01, jets don't work

When water sensor is activated, only the 'time' button, 'circulate' button and button numbers 1,2 and 3 light up. The 'light' button and the 'bubbles' button and one other button that looks like it has an eye on it don't light up. The tub will circulate and heat the water, but the jets don't work. It flashed an error code E01 and also something like SP6?THANK YOU!

Posted by erinaov on

Ad

2 Answers

Anonymous

  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

    Mayor:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 2 times.

    Problem Solver:

    An expert who has answered 5 questions.

  • Contributor
  • 6 Answers

Well first of all i have to assume that this tub is equipped with jet's on the floor and lights,if not then there's no reason for it those buttons to light up, now if it is equipped with these features and your getting a error code all this means is that this tub need to Re Configured to run this type of system,this is something a tech needs to look at because you wouldn't be getting error codes if the tub was configured wrong the reason your getting error codes is because something isn't plugged in correctly at the control box and the computer detected a fault.
Justin 503-547-3483

Posted on Mar 22, 2009

Ad

Anonymous

  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

  • Contributor
  • 2 Answers

I had the same problem with my Maax Tub. It would flash an E01 followed by an E06 error code. The problem was the connectors that connect the water sensor to the control unit were loose. I pulled the wires out of the control unit and bent the pins in slightly so they would make better contact. Once of the connectors had 6 pins while the other had 8 pins. I carefully bent them all inwards a little bit which made the connection seem much more tight. Now my tub is working again! Yeah.

Posted on Oct 01, 2009

Ad

Add Your Answer

×

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

2 Answers

Cooling sytem,the carOpel Corsa Utility is blowing hot air in even when the air-con if off and the selector knob is on the blue side.


Answer for question 3: No sensor tells the water pump to pump, the water pump is running as long as the motor is running. The serpentine belt turns the water pump and the crankshaft pulley powers this belt.
The thermostat is a variable valve that controls the flow of the water to a set temperature. The temperature switch is a sensor that will switch the fan/fans on if the temperature rises above a set temperature.
Answer for question 2: The bubbles that you see coming from the radiator could be cavitation bubbles. A more worrying aspect is that they could also be a sign of a bad head gasket.
Answer to question 1: It is possible that the water could not circulate if the water pump failed. It could also be very restricted if the thermostat failed open but there are bypasses that still allow some flow.

Jun 16, 2015 | Vehicle Parts & Accessories

1 Answer

2005 impala temp gauge not working light says overheating replaced thermostat temp sensor and bleed system. Any thoughts


Remove the radiator cap, let the car run. When the car is at temp. and the thermostat opens you should see coolant circulating in the radiator. If there is coolant flow and you know for a fact that the engine is not actually hot,(check with a laser thermometer: point the laser at the engine block and read temp.) then you more than likely have a problem with the coolant temp. sensor. Check the connections, replace the sensor.
If you do not see coolant circulating in the radiator then you have an issue with either a thermostat, water pump or possibly a blockage or at worst a problem in the head. Check the overflow with the car running, if it is steadily "blowing bubbles" in the over flow (like someone blowing bubbles into a cup with a straw) then there is compression leaking into the cooling system and there is a problem with the heads. Remove the heads and have them checked for cracks at a machine shop.
If there is no "blowing bubbles" then I would remove the thermostat, run and check for circulation in the radiator again. If it is flowing, then replace the thermostat. No flow, Check the radiator with a laser thermometer. With the car at temp. point the laser at different areas of the radiator and see if you have "cold" spots. If you do then you have blockage at the radiator. If you have consistent readings across the radiator that is not "cold" then change your water pump.
I hope this has been helpful and helps you to solve your problem.

Jul 04, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

The red pressure relief button on my GE Smartwater whole house water filter system is leaking what do i do to stop this


I had the same problem. The valve is not seating properly. I first took a plastic bag and placed it over the unit so it didn't spray all over, then, pushed the button several times to try to flush it. I then shut the water supply off (or move lever to bypass) and removed the cannister that holds the filter. I activated the red button several times until it looked like it seated well. Keep as much water in the cannister(sump) as you can and still have the filter seated properly. Screw it back on, and open the water supply slowly to fill the rest of the way. Don't push the red button again, but instead open a faucet in your house for around 5 minutes to let air circulate out. If the red button still leaks, you may have to try a few times. If it leaks just a little it may stop after a day or so. Once you get the red button to stop leaking, don't push it again! Just always use the open faucet method to work the air out. There will still be some air bubbles for awhile, but will work out within a day

Sep 13, 2012 | General Electric GE SmartWater Household...

1 Answer

Light flashes 7 times then pauses and blinks 7 times again, and keeps repeating


Temperature problem with water. Incoming water when filled should be no less then 1/2 inch below heater. If not, possible water valve. Incoming water temp. min after fill. 120 degrees. Missaligned door. One of door switches not activating. Bad circulation motor. Not throwing water over heater. Tech.sheet behind bottom panel. Will tell you. Shorted heater. When bottom panel is removed. Look for signs of water leaks. Hard water deposits on floor.

Mar 28, 2011 | Kenmore 24 in. 17032 Built-in Dishwasher

1 Answer

Water won't drain


Do the diagnostic test:
SHU 53 MODELS

To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ ?21? = version 1 with jumper). When wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.
To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display alone). Cycle Countdown display will show “88′ when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and “8h” when Delay Start button is pressed.
To start testing, press both the SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended, Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added together, (e.g./ ?6? = faults 2 + 4).
0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault
1 = Aqua Sensor (“Sensotronic”) fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code “4′ and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won’t be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show “0′, water won’t heat (to 150?F) and water won?t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code “8′ immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.
---------
The dishwasher not draining is most probably faulty drain pump or drain hose is got bit loose.It has to be checked and confirmed
.You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

Aug 27, 2010 | Bosch 24 in. SHU53 Built-in Dishwasher

1 Answer

I have a lazy xl spa heater light coming on massage system working but but hot water not circulating


when the bubbles are on the water blowing out of them is cold, you can not run bubbles and heat at the same time

Jul 21, 2010 | Pool & Spa

1 Answer

The dishwasher has been running for 3 hours and seems to be stuck on 1 minute left. Upon opening, there was sudsy water remaining in the bottom, but the dishes looked clean. The washer just won't go to...


SHU 53 MODELS To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ ?21? = version 1 with jumper). When wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button. To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display alone). Cycle Countdown display will show ?88″ when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and ?8h? when Delay Start button is pressed. To start testing, press both the SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended, Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added together, (e.g./ ?6? = faults 2 + 4). 0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault 1 = Aqua Sensor (?Sensotronic?) fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test) To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty. If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code ?4″ and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won?t be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show ?0″, water won?t heat (to 150?F) and water won?t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code ?8″ immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.

Aug 01, 2009 | Bosch SHU5315UC Dishwasher

1 Answer

Bosch SHU 6800 Water hot at sink only luke warm at the washer


BAD CONTROL BOARD TO TEST TO SEE IF THIS IS THE ISSUE RUN TEST PROGRAM
To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by
pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ “20” = version 0 without jumper). When
wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.
To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and
REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display
alone). Cycle Countdown display will show "88" when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and "8h" when Delay Start
button is pressed.
To start testing, press both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended,
Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added
together, (e.g./ “6” = faults 2 + 4).
0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault
1 = Aqua Sensor ("Sensotronic") fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil,
measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays
at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "4" and unit will continually fill and drain where
testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show "0", water won't heat (to 150ºF) and
water won’t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "8" immediately and
testing will end shortly after water has started circulating

Jul 18, 2009 | Bosch 24 in. SHU43 Built-in Dishwasher

1 Answer

Coolant system


Hello there,

Either an air bubble, the thermostat or the water pump.
  • Air bubble (pocket) - Just because the radiator is full, doesn't mean the engine is. When an air bubble circulates through an engine it will cause the temp gauge to swing from hot (when water is in contact with the sensor) to cold ( when air is in contact). The less water, the hotter the engine. Easiest fix - add water.
  • Thermostat - Keeps water circulating in the engine separate from the water in the radiator until it gets to a certain temperature. At that point, it opens and allows the hot engine water and the cooler radiator water to cycle. Hot to radiator, cool to engine. As the cooler water flows over the thermostat, it closes, allowing the cycle to repeat. If it opens at the wrong temp, or not at all, your engine will overheat. Water will begin to boil. Steam will make the temp gauge swing erratically.
  • Water pump - If the water pump is failing (sometimes the impeller will come of the shaft), the water will not circulate. Same results.
Troubleshoot:
  • First and foremost: BE SAFE!!! Wear safety glasses. Start this with the engine cool. When you look in the radiator, do it from an angle and as far away as possible.
  • Have a hose or a couple two liter bottles full of water.
  • Take off the radiator cap. (Do not take off if engine is hot)
  • Is the water level low? If so, top it off.
  • Make sure the transmission is in either PARK or Neutral and set the parking brake.
  • Start the engine.
  • Observe the water level in the radiator. If it drops, top it off again.
  • At first it should do nothing. The water in the engine is still cool. The thermostat is closed. As the water in the engine heats up, the thermostat will begin to open. When it does, you will notice the water level begin to surge up and down.
  • Check your temp gauge. If the gauge getting close to the 'Red Zone', the thermostat should have begun cycling before now. Go back to the radiator and check it.
  • When (if) the thermostat finally opens all the way, the water will start moving as it cycles through the system. You will be able to tell the difference.
  • If you see the water flowing, the water pump is ok.
  • If the water does not start to move and the gauge is getting close to 'Red', shut the engine down and let it cool. Do not put your face near the radiator. If the thermostat suddenly let go, The hot water, driven by steam, could erupt out of the filler hole. Replace thermostat. Rerun this test. If results are the same, replace water pump.
  • Does the water level drop at this point (air bubble)? If so, top it off while it's circulating. Adding cold water will close the thermostat. Be prepared to wait through the cycling two or three times.
  • Check the temp gauge again. Has it leveled off?
  • When you don't need to add water any more, put the cap back on. Observe the temp gauge for a few more minutes. has it stopped the erratic behavior? If so, it was an air bubble and it's gone. If not, replace the thermostat.
Let me know how it goes. If you have any other problems, click the ASK button.

Remember: Good thing come to those who Rate.

Mike

Jul 28, 2008 | 1998 Saturn SL

Not finding what you are looking for?
Maax Calla 6042 Bathtub - 101058-000 Logo

2,926 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Maax Home Experts

Mike

Level 3 Expert

4369 Answers

Vincent G
Vincent G

Level 3 Expert

2363 Answers

Bill Johnson

Level 2 Expert

306 Answers

Are you a Maax Home Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...