First, check to make sure your fryer is assembled correctly, everything is seated firmly, and nothing wet or oily. make sure everything's turned off, and there is oil in the reservoir. also make sure (on the rival czf625, not sure about the 630) that the magnetic "surerelease" is properly attached and secure (i can not begin to explain the grief this has caused me, every movement seems to dislodge the plug, though it still looks attached). plug in the power cord to the outlet, and try to turn it on. if all looks well, and it still doesn't work, i'd send for a replacement heating element.
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The heating element needs to be checked to see if it has power and if it has burned out. To do this, you need a meter that checks voltage and resistance. To test it, locate the connections to the heating element and with the machine unplugged test the heating coil with the meter set to measure resistance. It should not be infinite. IF it is then the coil is burned out.
The easiest way I know is to check the heating element, turn thr dryer on and try ranging slowly,a minute each through the cycles if no heat-it is almost immediate, I would SUSPECT the heating element. I do not know how to access it but it is basically a foot or so coiled wire like the old hot plate elements sometimes enclosed in a tin "heater box" to direct the heat. If they break-no heat. You have to before you start disconnect all power and remove the element and check for breaks and also use a multi meter to check for continuity(breaks that might not be visible.If this doesn't help I strongly urge a manual which should help you trouble shoot. Best Wishes
I would need a model number to better narrow the problem down for you. If this is a gas dryer Remove the lower panel. With the lower toe panel removed, start the dryer & watch the igniter. If the igniter glows & cuts off without lighting the gas this would usually indicate the gas valve coils are weak & will need to be replaced. For this type of repair be sure to disconnect the electrical power & turn off the gas to the dryer. If the timer is set in the auto dry cycle, it will not advance if the dryer is not heating. Once you repair the dryer, the timer should start advancing. It is possible that your old timer is good. If you need further assistance please resubmit your question. If this is a electric dryer The timer not advancing from 50 minutes in time dryer & the unit not heating are not related unless 1 leg of the 240 volt supply is lost. Diagnosing a problem like this will require using a volt/ohm meter. With the timer set to time dry you should be getting 240volts to the timer motor & 240volts to the heating element. In the wiring diagram provided L1 comes from the timer on R & goes through the thermal cutoff, oper thermostat & the hi-limit to provide 120volts to 1 leg of the heating element. The L2 leg goes through the motor switch to the other side of the heating element. This is how the element gets 240volts. The timer motor gets its voltage on BK from L1 & OR from L2; this is what advances the timer.
Sounds like one of your heating elements is not heating properly.
Check to make sure you are getting power to both of the heating coils, you can check that by removing the two covers over the heating elements and checking with an electric ohm/volt meter for power to the elements. If you have power going to both elements then you will need to check the elements themselves.
Unplug the water heater and then check the two heating coils to make sure they have continuity across the two terminals. You probably will find only one is working, replace it with a new element and enjoy all the hot water you can use.
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Hi Thanks for using FixYa.
Things that could stop an electric
dryer from heating: - house fuse or breaker (needs two of them), heating
element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse (not all models),motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power
cord/plug. Please do accept
the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further
assistance. Thanks Rylee
Hi, Did you get a restring kit for the element or did you get element and housing complete? If you just got the restring kit, the element might have sagged and shorted out. The squeek in the drum could be the rear bearing. You probably seen that on the drum shaft when you replaced the element. The timer problem might be, if you use the auromatic cycle, it will not advance if the element doesn't get hot.
Hope this is sme help.
Check with a multi-meter for power on THE heating element's tags (115/220V). If it does get power, you should replace the heating element. In case of no power- you should replace the thermostat.