These subs are dual voice coil I'm sure...make sure they are putting a 2 ohm load on the amp total, and also set your gain and frequency setting right. Set the frequency around 85 or 90, make sure the lo pass filter is on. Turn the gain ALL the way down and turn your stereo to the point right before your speakers distort....then slowly increase the gain until the subs are playing at full volume. This should not even be close to all the way up, and the subs should sound accurate and bold. Turning them past this point will cause distortion, in which case you should back off the gain a bit. Distortion causes power to cycle through the amp very rapidly and can cause blown subs and blown fuses.
If you do not know how to wire both subs for a combined load of 2 ohms, please let me know what type of subs you have.
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Because it's drawing more power than the fuse can handle get a fuse with a higher rating. A 100 app fuse worked great for main power with my setup 760w amp a 15"sub 2 10"subs and a 12" sub. Also my amp had 2 30amp fuses on it one for each channel but I ran everything out of one channel.
Sounds like you burned out the sub channel usually due to having a sub the draws more watts than the system can push, effectively blowing a capacitor or node within the internal motherboard of the AMP.
If you have replaced with the correct rating and the fuse blows off then you will need to check for higher current drain in the sub woofer or the network. After replacing the fuse load up the subwoofer slowly, reduce the bass and as you increase check at the point the fuse blows off. Now we need to analyse if the rating of the amplifier you are using is rated for the subwoofer. If your subwoofer has a higher rating you can increase the rating by about 25% and check again. Some amplifiers give a very higher voltage on full bass which could result in such a condition. Moderate this and check again. If the fuse stays Ok you can continue with this new rating.Otherwise the output of the amp at higher volume needs a confirmation. Hope this helps. Good day
Could be that you have a partially roasted(blown) coil on one of your subs which will function- but will keep tripping your amp.You can check that out just by using a different set of subs to listen to and by the process of elimination if the problem goes away then you know where the problem is at.Also check your gains you might be riding the gain a little high which causes distortion which causes heat(FAST) which will cause the amp to shut down completely or some amps will decrease output in a programmed attempt to save itself.turn the bass boost down to half if you even use it at all- that too can cause massive distortion in the amp itself,meaning only that if you have the bass boost on your deck turned up and then you turn the boost up on your amp the sound signal is then WAYYY distorted which will cause a thermal shutdown too. Last thing is to make sure that your subs arent running below 2 ohms because i believe that particular amp is designed to put out about 900 watts at 2 ohms.good luck
kicker subs arnt ment to hit the lowest bass, unless you go spend a **** load of money, im talking 3000 wat amp, ant some 15' or bigger subs. the most commen kickers are 12' subs, so im asuming you have 12' subs, if not, this (said lightly) should work. try turning the bass boost screw on the amp to the middle of its turning range. this will offer the greatest balance between high and low bass. if you want more low bass, turn it past half. if you want more high bass, turn it down. i have mine set to mid range, but i also recently purchased 2 18' kickers. with every new set of subs, you should spend at least 15 min tuning the amp to get the best performance. every sub is different. hope this helps, good luck.
are u sure you didn't blow a fuse? check the fuses to make sure you did not blow one because the amp will not work in that case. make sure you are not over working your amp as well because it seems like that amp is not big enough to power all four of those subs. usually 4 channel amps are used to power speakers not subs. what is the rms on your subs and amp? i could better tell whether your amp is big enough. thanks hoped this helped
When any amp blows fuses, this indicates that something is drawing too much current. The most common cause are components in the output stage and driver stages that have become defective.
On the amp that is blowing the fuse with the volume being turned up, this means that the output stage is partially working. The short or over-draw of current must be in the output stage, or what is loading it. It is possible in this case that a crossover in a speaker unit is defective, and is drawing too much current. I have seen this with especially sub-woofer crossovers, and the driver itself. Subs pull a lot of current because of the amount of drive power required to have very strong bass sounds. Other than that, this still does not rule out the possibility of the problem being defective components in the amplifier.