Question about Maytag MAT13MN Top Load Washer

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Maytag Washer Noise While Spinning

I have a two year old Maytag washer model sav515deww. At the fastest point of the spin cycle it starts to make a noise that sounds like something on the side of the inner drum is scraping on the outer drum. My only theory is that there is something stuck on the inside of the inner drum. Can anyone give me step by step instructions on how to remove the inner drum so I can inspect it. I am fairly handy but can not find instructions anywhere on how to get the inner drum out. Thanks for your help.

Posted by Jamie Walker on

  • 6 more comments 
  • Avasdad Jan 09, 2008

    I have the exact same noise as Jaime as far as I can tell. My Maytag SAV365AAWW works great except on spin cycle it makes a grinding sound that almost sounds like plastic on plastic. I havent tried to troubleshoot at all yet, but if I follow the instructions above, what should I look for once the top of the wash is off?

  • Anonymous Feb 23, 2008




    trying to replace belt


  • Anonymous Apr 08, 2008

    I have the same problem, mine is more of a clicking the speed of the sound increases with the speed of the spin and it does should like something is striking the cabinet. My repairman thought it was the spring and tried lubricating them where the clip to the cabinet, but that did not work, I still have the problem with the same model

  • rslusr Sep 05, 2008

    I have the same problem with a Maytag SAV515DEWW washer. Loud noise during the spin cycle and the ordor of burnt rubber. Service tech says the problem is the lower pulley that is causing the belt to drag. both need to be replaced and the cost is high. Is this something I can do myself and where can I get the parts ?

  • bigduck61873 Dec 03, 2008

    burning belt smell and loud vibration sound but still is working? what should i do?

  • melissa116 Dec 28, 2008

    I have the maytag washer sav515deww and have the same problems as everyone else. Is Maytag going to do anything to correct this problem? I can't imagin that we all have the same problem. Mine is less than 3 years old. I am very disappointed in this washer.

  • joshraph Jan 04, 2009

    Help - we can't remove the spinner support! Any suggestions???

  • Anonymous Mar 29, 2014

    Indesit wasking machine model iwb71250. The inner metal drum is loose and is making a clanking noise

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Anonymous

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Most washer models have snap-clips holding the front of the top panel down, with hinge-like clips at the back. Carefully pry up the top panel on the front of the machine using a tool that won't scratch the finish, such as a plastic or wooden wedge. If it does not pop loose fairly easily, then carefully examine the back of the machine to see if this is a rare model that has screws holding down the top panel. (But really, it _should_ just pop loose.) Once the top panel is tilted up to expose the inside, you should be able to see everything you need to see inside the body to evaluate a spinning drum problem.

Posted on Aug 04, 2007

  • Anonymous Aug 05, 2007

    In the hopes that you will remove that ATROCIOUS rating you left on me, or at least replace it with a better rating, I spent more time trying to help you with your problem...

    Keep in mind that I'm _still_ taking you at your word when you say you are fairly handy. So much of what you're doing with this washer is observation/reaction that you have to have a minimum level of mechanical expertise.

    However, below this paragraph is a link to a website that shows exploded views of the parts in your particular washer model. You can use these exploded views to guide you when disassembling or assembling the unit, and hopefully this will make it easier for you to complete this repair project. -->
    http://www.partselect.com/AdvancedModelS...

    (Note: pay close attention to the model numbers on the Tub drawings. This particular parts list shows two different models of Maytag washers, though the major difference appears to be in these tub details - and because of this they have two separate Tub detail drawings.)

    First, you need to unplug the washer, turn off the water faucets and disconnect the hoses. Also remove the drain hose from it's drainpipe, and pull the washer out away from the wall. Give yourself _plenty_ of room to work around the entire machine, or you will be making life difficult for yourself.

    As I said before, the top panel simply pops loose from the rest of the cabinet, on the front side. I use a wooden wedge to pry the top panel up and off the lower cabinet because the wood won't scratch the finish or otherwise leave marks as a metal tool would.

    For verification of this fact, look at the exploded view of the Cabinet and examine part #7 from that drawing. The front of the top panel is held down with two of these spring clips and is designed to simply pop loose and swing up out of the way, much like the hood of a car.

    I was unable to locate a picture of the rear of your washer, so I cannot tell you for certain whether or not another part will interfere. (Although looking at the drawings, I'm led to believe that you have nothing else in the way.) As I said before - the top panel should simply swing up and out of the way, but if the control panel or a rear panel is interfering, they simply need to be loosened or removed.

    (Note: you can remove the front panel from the rest of the cabinet, if you choose to do so, but it shouldn't be necessary for the removal of the inner tub. It should just be held on with two screws, so it's very easy to remove. It might make it easier to access parts inside the cabinet, but the choice is up to you.)

    With the lid out of the way, you now need to remove the large plastic ring sitting on top of the washer tubs. It should be held on with nothing more than coil springs. Pay attention to which spring is in which location, and in which direction they are mounted. You want to re-assemble these springs in the same position you removed them from.

    Now remove your agitator. Just pop the plastic top off and remove the bolt holding it down. It may take some wiggling to get the agitator loose, but it lifts right out. Once the agitator is out, you can remove the bolts holding the inner tub in place and lift it right out as well.

    Removing the plastic ring, agitator and inner tub is actually pretty simple and straightforward, once you have the machine open and ready to be worked upon. Which is why my previous message to you was not very detailed...

    My apologies for not being very clear about this before, but hopefully you now see that this repair process is easily accomplished once you know the "secret" of the spring clips that hold the top down to the cabinet. If you have any further questions regarding this repair process, feel free to ask about it and I will do my best to describe the solution to you.

    Hope this helps! ;)

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douldoug

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You would think that the lip on the top of the drum assembly would be ther to locate how far the top went down WRONG
make sure you can get a finger in between the inner tub and the top. lightly loosen the clamp around the tub and carefully lift the inner lid until you can fit your finger around the entire circumfrence then retighten the clamp

Posted on Jun 18, 2008

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If its making a loud squeeking/scraping noise, in my maytag that i repaired, the problem was the waterpump. If you turn the washer on it's side, you will see that it has a belt with three pully's on the bottom. One pulley is connected to the waterpump and right where the pulley meets the metal plate it's connected to, there should be a gold coupling. This coupling sometimes comes loose and scrapes the metal plate on spin cycle (when the pulley is spinning) which causes the scraping/squeeking sound. If this is the case, you will see where the coupling has scraped a groove into the metal plate. The coupling will eventually catch while spinning and break entirely. The cheapest i found a water pump new is $80.

Posted on Dec 04, 2009

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