Light inside the Refrigerator will not go out when the door close

. Using a good light , flashlight , etc. check your refrigerator and freezer door seals . This is the gasket that seals the door shut when closed . Look for cracks, tears, and possibly bumps in the gasket material. If you notice any of these , replace the door seal gasket . Furthermore , it is always best to replace both door gaskets at same time .

Where exactly on the back wall of the fresh food compartment(refrigerator) is this ice build up? If its building up in the air vents, that usually indicates a warm air leak, and this additional warm air is creating condensation, read ice, where it meets the colder air. There is no defrost heater or sensor in the refrigerator, all the cooling components that need to be inside the cabinet are located in the freezer. To check for warm air leaks, check to see that your light switch turns the light(s) off, check that the door actuates the switch when its closed, you will have to close door and squeeze part of the gasket to see if the light stays on. Furthermore, check the door gasket itself, make sure there are no gaps, rips or other malformations. Check that the bottom part of the gasket is not sagging, or the hinge side corners are not bunched up, or stretched out from the corners. Also, let the door close by itself like normal, and check the lower portion of the non hinge side of the gasket, if there is a gap here, further check for scratches on the bottom inside liner, not the door, inside the bottom of the fresh food compartment. If there are scratches here, this indicates the door is rubbing on the bottom because its too low, indicating a problem in the lower door hinge area. You dont mention any refrigerator freezer temperature problems, so it does not sound like a defrost problem or an issue with an evaporator fan motor failure.

Press the door swtich inside the fridge. If you press the door switch close and the lights still don't turn off then you have a faulty door switch. They are cheap to replace.

James Memije
Head Technician
Accufix Appliance Service Centre

This can be due to one of two things, either the door is not hitting the light switch when it closes or the light switch is bad.

Locate the switch, it is usually on the top of the cabinet inside the refrigerator, push the switch, if the light does not go out then the switch is bad, if the light goes out the door needs adjusted so it will hit the switch when it closes. Typically this can be done by loosening the hinges and holding the door in place while someone tightens the hinges back up.

Check if it is still under warranty - I think that it is usually 2 years.

When in this condition, was the compressor still running ?
There was one issue that occurred occasionally on some models - the fridge door has a height adjustment so you can level the 2 doors up. Sometimes, it drops a bit too much, and on models with the fridge door light switch on the top (not the side), it meant that it wasn't turning off the light. Some have 2 lamps (commonly 40W or more each), so you effectively have 80Watts or more of heating running constantly. If your (exact) model has the door switch on the side, this is Unlikely to be the issue.

If the compressor was not running, I could say something like "it might have got stuck in a defrost cycle", but this DOESN'T really fit with the operation of these fridges (no defrost elements in the fridge side).
Does this help in any way ??

If I understand correctly, you have the bottom freezer with the two doors that open into the fresh food section. Also you have to open one of the two doors first in order to get into the fresh food section. If i ma correct. The switch on the door you have to open first to get into the fresh food section is bad. This is why it makes not difference if you hold both in. The switch on the second door does something else. You will need to replace the switch that the first. You can test this switch by, take the switch out. They are tricky to get out. Take a putty knife and slide it under one end of the switch, push in while you are prying outward. It should pop out. There should be three wires going to the switch. One of the wires is hot (110 Volts), one goes to the fan inside the fridge and the other goes to the light. (The switch operates like this. When you close the door, it turns the light off and the fan on. When you open the door, it turns the fan off and the light on.) Once you find out which one is hot, connect one of the others to it. If the fan comes on try connecting the hot to the other wire. The light in the fridge should turn off. If so replace the switch. I hope you can understand the way I tried to explain.
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If you can find the 'Plunger" for the light switch......push on it to see it turns off the light. Once you know that is working you can add a "shim" to the door with a piece of tape. But if the plunger isn't working nothing else you do is going to fix it.

The plunger is usually located somewhere on the fridge on the same side where the door hinges are

I assume "light flashing inside@the switch" means the inside light turns on when you open the door, and goes off when you close the door, or depress the switch manually.

Sounds like the fill valve has failed at the bottom back of the refrigerator.

Reply back your findings if that is not it and I will give you more suggestions.

Make sure the light is going off when the door is in the closed position. Find the switch that the door makes contact with when it closes. If the light is not going out the heat from the light being on could cause such a problem.

I had this exact problem with my 4 yr old Samsung RB1855SL refrigerator. BTW, the temperature display doesn’t display higher than 9C, even when its warmer inside. The fan wasn’t turning on to circulate the cold air, although the cooling coils were still cooling. There was no excess ice build-up. The freezer was working fine.

I thought perhaps the fan was toast or the temperature sensor. Then I noticed the interior fridge light was not turning off when closing the door (but the freezer light was). BINGO—thig light switch was the problem. A small piece on the inside of the fridge side of the switch was broken. When the door was closed, the broken switch didn’t let the fridge know that the door was in fact closed, causing the door alarm to keep beeping. This must shut the fan down in order to save energy when regularly opening the door.

DIY fix: I removed the switch (until I could get a replacement) which is located to the left of the lower door hinge (right hand side). Gently, with a flat nose screw driver, I pried it out.

The light no longer turned on when opening either door but that was a small price to pay compared to the incessant beeping and rotten food. The part can’t be very expensive and I can replace it myself. The local appliance repair shop will order it for me.

No expensive “internal brain” needed to be replaced or an expensive repairman needed to be called. Good luck!