Very similar problem---Leak

EC usually means that the compressor overheated while trying to move the refrigerant through the compression part of cycle. This usually happens when the refrigerant is low due to a leak in the system. Sometimes, you can spot the problem when ice builds up around the coils near the leak.

This is not a user-repairable problem. If your dehumidifier is under warranty, contact the manufacturer. The entire system has to be checked to identify the leak. Then after the leak is fixed, the correct amount of refrigerant appropriate to the model has to be added. (In most places, freon and freon replacements must be handled by a trained professional.)

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

Yes, there should be a screw out plug for the drain hole on the lower left. If the plug is not in there, the you will have water all over the floor. Unless, you can find the drain cap for it. The auto drain hose connection is about 6" above the manual drain hole, I just mentioned. That is where the auto drain hose connect. It's held in place by a squeeze clamp, that goes on the hose before making the connection. But, keep in mind, with out the drain hole screw in plug, water will still spill onto the floor.

If you can't find it, try Appliance Factory Parts 1-800-955-7075. As they may can help you.

Hope this helped you and thanks for choosing FixYa

You may still have some packaging materials left inside the unit. The plastic pan doesn't stay in side the bucket. It's used as a drain pan on the outside. Also, be sure the air intake filter is in place, is clean and there are no packaging materials behind it.

To extract more humidity, after checking all the things mentioned above. Lower the extraction level to 32 to 35%. Lower percentages means extraction of more humidity. (i.e.200% -35% = 5% drop in humidity).

Hope this helps you troubleshoot and solve the problem. Please let me know. Thanks.

Hi,

If you are running and not pulling moisture first check air flow. Vacuum the front and back grills and make sure the coils are clean. If you have good air flow the cause of the problem is most like a sealed system issue. This is most commonly a refrigerant (freon) leak. check your use and care manual to find how long the warranty on the system is, sometimes it is as long as 5 years. If it is out of warranty then the repairs are more costly than a new unit.

You've developed a sealed system problem.

Well life span is 3-15 years depends how long and hard you run them. 45 pint is about 1000sqft basment. rule of thumbs bigger better. run less and do a better job. I would start by filling the bucket and place in a dry shower see if you have a crack. cant find a source for the bucket discontinued this might be your problem. http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-M7DH45B2A-%3d%3di1025984&PartID=1025984 Repair cost are about 40-50 and hour!!!! good luck

It seems these units only last about a year or two before this happens. Unless you can get it replaced under warranty (mine had 5 year warranty) you probably will be better off getting a new one. They leak their freon out and then just run, usually forming ice near the top of the unit in the front. Classic case of not enough refrigerant.

Its likely one of two things. 1) the fan isn't moving enough air through the unit. If there is a filter, clean it. 2)If aire flow is OK and its freezing up on one end of the coil and the other end of the coil is not very cold at all then refrigerant charge is probably low. I know that seems counter intuitive but a low charge in a refrigerator or A/C unit (which this dehumidifier is a derivative of) can actually frost up when slightly under charged. Now if the charge is determined to be low there is a leak somewhere and that leak will need to be found and repaired. It will probably take an electronic leak detector to find it. If the leak is on a section of aluminum tubing in a tight location it may be impossible to repair the leak and that may force you into a new unit. If its on a copper tube it can be fixed. If its on aluminum tubing it can be clamped shut if there is physical access for attaching a clamp and seal. Sometimes a leak pushes out some refrigerant oil at the site of the leak making it a visible spot to the naked eye. Hope these comments are of some help

You should see the tabs near each corner on the top and near each corner on the sides up towards the top. What I recommend is pull out slightly where you removed the screws. Then when you look closely you will be able to see the tabs. Once you see the tabs you can compress them with a small flat head screwdriver.

Mine did this last year. I took the housing off of the left side and found a clear plastic tube had popped off the fitting, I put it back on and it worked fine. The tube was toward the lower front of the unit.