Question about GE GSH22JFR Side by Side Refrigerator
I have an ge side by side refrigerator the model # on the inside door says it's TFX203SAXA. The freezer part keeps getting ice build up on the back of the freezer. Then the temperature on the refrigerator keeps going up so its not cooling at the right temp. What could be going on?
Cabinet heater switch or timer if gone. Ice is building up and blocking the vent from the freezer to the refrigerator where the cold air has to travel.. Call the ge repair people.
Posted on Feb 18, 2018
The codensor fan is not running. I have the same problem. I had the fan replaced a year ago for the same problem, so I can't tbelieve it's the fan. I am guessing something on the circuit board is not letting the fan kick on. I don't have a definite answer yet, but the fan not running is the main issue you are having.
Posted on Sep 30, 2008
Need you to unplug and remove the back panel in freezer to examine the evaporator coil. Check the defrost element and the defrost thermostat. On the back of the refrigerator is a main control board located behind a panel screwed to the refrigerator back. With the power off through all of this I need you to inspect the control board for burn marks on both sides. Click on link below and enter your model or 1 of 34 models like yours. Place model GSH25JFR in model parts search this will lead you to the many similar models like yours. On diagrams on left of your screen count eight down that shows the circuit board. If no burn marks I will tell you how to test the other parts I mentioned,
Thanks, Sea Breeze
Posted on May 21, 2009
this is a problem that is no stranger to most GE side by sides; GE has used a glass type defrost heater in the freezer which often fails. If you manually defrost your appliance (unplug and leave doors open for 24 hrs) then plug back in, it will appear to work normally for a few days and gradually build up frost on the evap panel (back panel in the freezer) and eventually the refrigerator side will seem to loose cooling due to frosted damper, or lack of cold air transfer over the evap coil. The fix for this is to replace the defrost heaters (s). While not as common, defrost thermostats can open causing the unit to skip defrost, and even less likely is the defrost control (either mechanical timer or adaptive defrost). First, defrost your appliance, then remove the evap panel and ohm out the heater(s), if open, replace. If they check ok, check your defrost thermostat (small disc like object attached by a clip on the evap. coil itself) for signs of popping open or open ohm readings at normally closed temperatures. Its a good idea to change this anyway when replacing defrost heaters as the two work hand in hand. Last, check the defrost timer by manually advancing the screw advance clockwise until you hear the first click, then check voltage to the defrost heater and thermostat, if no voltage present replace timer. If your appliance is equipped with a adaptive defrost board, refer to the schematic for proper diagnostics.
Posted on Jun 25, 2009
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