Broken and missing on-off switch for pm0401850

Question edited for clarity to put things in the right order and throw in some upper case letters.

Three ways

Model Search ' JGB860EEJ1ES

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GE® 30" Free-Standing Gas Double Oven Convection Range. JGB860EEJ1ES. Product Specifications · Owner's Manual · Installation Instructions ...

Gas & Electric Range - Wiring Diagram Location

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The wiring diagram (mini-manual/schematic) is packaged with each model. The most common locations are listed below: Behind the control panel. Taped to the right ...
Missing: JGB860EEJ1ES ‎' Must include: JGB860EEJ1ES

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  How to Obtain a Wiring Diagram or Schematic - GE Appliance

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  A wiring diagram, also referred to as a mini-manual, is included with most GE Appliances products. If you need the wiring diagram, you can determine where ...

It could be one of the relays (cube things). Two of them should be flasher relays but the others are there to allow heavy electrical currents to be controlled by light weight switches and wires. These work as heavy duty switches controlled by an electro magnet. The key switch often has several positions; The first one after off usually controls the ancillaries, the items you are having problems with. The switch powers up a relay which then powers up a part of the fuse box that supplies the fuses to the individual items. You will need an electrical tester. Pull a fuse to one of the items that isn't working and turn the key switch to the on position. Check for 12volts on one side of the fuse. If things were working correctly then you should have a supply to the fuse but I suspect that you won't. You will then need to find which relay supplies that part of the fuse box and remove it. Use the electrical tester to check for 12 volts at two of the terminals with the key switch still on. If you do then the relay is probably at fault. One of the 12 volt supplies powers up the solonoid the other is switched by the solonoid to another terminal. Most solonoids have a wiring diagram on them showing what each terminal does. You could read this diagram and temporarily short the supply to the feed to test the theory. Make sure that you know what you are doing though because shorting the wrong terminals could cause a fire.

1. Switch off the machine, then switch on the machine.
2. Enter dC330 code 10-100 to heat the fuser to 180 degrees. Enter codes 10-200 (centre
thermistor) and 10-210 (front thermistor) to verify the condition of the thermistors.
3. Enter code 10-300 to check power supply unit 2. If necessary, install a new power supply
unit 2, PL 1.10 Item 4.
4. Switch off the machine. Remove the fuser assembly. Check that the thermistors, PL 10.25
Item 9 are clean and in good contact with the fuser heat roller. Check the wiring to the
thermistors. Install new components as necessary, PL 10.25.
5. Check for continuity between the two pins on the fuser assembly connector, PL 10.25
Item 8.
NOTE: A cold fuser has a resistance of approximately 11.5 ohms (220V/240V) or 2 ohms
(110V).
6. Check that there is continuity through the fuser heater and across the over temperature
cut-out.
7. Check the wiring between the fuser connector, PL 4.15 Item 20 and CON3, CON8 and
CON9 on Power Supply Unit 2. If necessary, install a new fuser connector, PL 4.15 Item
20.
8. Check the wiring between CON4 on Power Supply Unit 2 and CN7 on the Main PWB.
9. Install new components as necessary:
• Fuser assembly, PL 10.25 Item 1.
• HVPS, PL 1.10 Item 2.
10. Perform the OF5 Main PWB Check RAP.
4250/4260 Checkout
NOTE: The main PWB has test points. The location of the test points is shown on the Main
PWB PJ location illustration.
Refer to Wiring Diagram 17, Wiring Diagram 18 and Wiring Diagram 21. Perform the following:
1. Switch off the machine, then switch on the machine.
2. Enter dC330 code 10-100 to heat the fuser to 180 degrees. Enter codes 10-200 (centre
thermistor) and 10-210 (front thermistor) to verify the condition of the thermistors.
3. Enter code 10-300 to check power supply unit 2. If necessary, install a new power supply
unit 2, PL 1.15 Item 4.
4. Switch off the machine. Remove the fuser assembly. Check that the thermistors, PL 10.28
Item 9 are clean and in good contact with the fuser heat roller. Check the wiring to the
thermistor assembly. Check the wiring to the NC thermistor, PL 10.28 Item 19. Install new
components as necessary, PL 10.28.
5. Check for continuity between the three pins on the fuser assembly connector, PL 10.28
Item 8.
NOTE: A cold fuser has a resistance of approximately 11.5 ohms (220V/240V) or 2 ohms
(110V).
6. Check that there is continuity through the fuser heat lamps and across the over temperature
cut-out. Install new components as necessary, PL 10.28.
7. Check the wiring between the fuser connector, PL 4.15 Item 20 and CN5 on the Main
PWB. If necessary, install a new fuser connector, PL 4.15 Item 20.
8. Check the wiring between CON1 on Power Supply Unit 2 and CN7 on the Main PWB.
9. Install new components as necessary:
• Fuser assembly, PL 10.28 Item 1.
• Power supply unit 2, PL 1.15 Item 4.
10. Perform the OF5 Main PWB Check RAP

Bad switch or broken wire.

I unfortunately cannot cut and paste the schematic on fixya.com. It doesn't copy over.

I would recommend going to the store and buying the haynes or chilton manual that has the
electrical schematics.

Otherwise, one can check the wires for power with a non powered test light with the door panel removed and the switch contacts exposed.

You can get full wiring diagrams and a complete factory service manual for around 20 bucks from Promanuals.
Here is link 2008 Jeep Patriot Service Manual

We have purchased this item and it has it's own wiring diagram sections broken down by categories.

WARNING: Do not attempt to do this work unless you completely understand the information provided below. If in doubt call an electrician.
Always make sure the power is disconnected from all possible sources before making any connections. Your description of the problem indicates that there may be multiple power wires coming into the same box. In that case local codes may require that the box be partitioned to prevent exposure to voltages up to 220 volts.
You need to determine where each wire goes to know how to connect them together. You cannot rely on color alone. If the power supply runs through the box to the loads then most (but probably not all) of the white wires will be connected together. If the power runs to the load boxes first then none of the white wires in the switch box should be connected together. They are used to run the switched/dimmed power back to the loads (and should be taped to cover the white in the box). In that case each switch has its own power input and they should not be tied together. A wire (could be black or white with black tape) brings power from the load box, gets connected to the input terminal of the switch and the corresponding black wire carries the switched power back to the load. The fan/light switch will have one power in and a switched power out for the fan and another for the light. The 3-way will have one "power" in (or it could be the final power out to the light) and two "carrier wires that connect to the other 3-way switch. If the power supply goes through the switch box then there will be at least 10 wires in that box. In that case see the attached diagram:

Thick wires at IGN SW .... Red(s) - supply power from the battery to the IGN switch ... Pink - ignition supply ... Orange - Accessory power ... Purple most RWD sometimes (Yellow most FWD) - Starter .. Did I miss any? It's been a while The thin wires on the IGN swich are for key sense and VATS (if applicable)

The Black 120vac Line In wire goes into "L". The Black wire goes into "2". The Red Wire goes into "3". When you install the switch, the Red and Black wires will be on top of the switch.