My LG WM2016CW washer will not turn on. No power

How to reset the washing machine:

1. Press POWER to turn the washer off.
2. Unplug the washer from the power outlet or turn the circuit breaker to the unit off.
3. With the power disabled, press and hold the START/PAUSE button for 5 seconds.
4. Plug the washer back in, or turn the circuit breaker back on.

https://www.lg.com/us/support/help-library/le-error-code-CT00000305-1337701712239
Download manual
https://servlib.com/lg/washing-machine/wd-10485tp.html

Press POWER to turn the washer off.

Unplug the washer from the power outlet or turn the circuit breaker to the unit off.

With the power disabled, press and hold the START/PAUSE button for 5 seconds.

Plug the washer back in, or turn the circuit breaker back on.


Suggest you test the wall receptacle with some other known good appliance e.g. vacuum cleaner.

Circuit breaker?
Do you mean the main RCD/ELCB or the MCB (micro circuit breaker) protecting the circuit.
The MCB is the modern replacement for a fuse...

If it is the main RCD that is tripping it indicates a current leakage to ground that might be in the power outlet or coincidentally in both appliances. If the appliances work ok on other circuits the fault is likely with the power outlet.

If it is the MCB that is tripping and the appliances work ok in other circuits, it indicates the MCB might be faulty.

u have a faulty electronic board,,,,,,,,,,,,front panel.

do you mean the gfci that is normally at the end of the cord or the switch on the unit itself. if its the ground fault circuit interrupter its detecting a short to ground and protecting you from recieving a shock.must inspect inside unit for possible moisture around motor or switch i don't think its overloading

As an electrician, when someone loses more than 1 item of electronics in a day, its almost
always traceable to a nearby lightning strike, accompanied by inadequate surge protection for
the VCR/TV/Computer/Stereo/uninsured valuable electronic item/XBOX 360. Surge protection can
be provided by the consumer at the power strip (a good one with builtin protection and a
warranty costs $20, whereas a zero-protection 4-outlet or 6-outlet power strip will cost $4-$5).
Your electrician can provide whole-house protection, or per-circuit protection at
the breaker box, where a GFCI breaker (or better, an AFCI breaker) can be installed.
GFCI = ground fault circuit interruptor
AFCI = Arc fault circuit interruptor
Lightning protection is especially important in Florida, which is the "lightning capital of the world."
I've never found a good solution to lightning-fried electronics (random power supply components are destroyed), other than renters insurance or homeowners insurance.
The converter box may be replaced by DirecTV, you'd have to contact their customer
service at http://www.directv.com/DTVAPP/content/customerservice
If desperate, you could try replacing the entire TV power supply as a module, but even this provides
no guarantee of a fix - lightning damage can extend beyond the power supply.
When traveling, I will always unplug everything before I leave (except the security system),
and also turn off the breakers to unneeded house circuits (which kills the wall switches that
control interior lighting - forcing a burglar to use their flashlight instead of interior lighting)
which is the least convenient lightning protection, but highly effective, and cheap (free).

Usually the washer circuit is a seperate 20A circuit. The lights would be on a different circuit usually 15A. Check your panel and see if there is a 20 breaker tripped. Hopefully your panel is labeled (or it should be) Are you saying this tripped while using the extension cord? Another possibility is that it is controlled by a GFCI outlet. You can connect additional receptacles to a GFCI outlet to protect them. Check to see if you have a GFCI receptacle tripped (in garage, bathrrom etc)

hi,

if your handy , you can fix that. first see if you can get the dryer going again. unplug everything and use a pair of wire cutters to remove the damaged cord off the dryer , make sure all that damaged wiring is unplugged and away from the dryer and plug your dryer back in and reset the circuit breaker and try the dryer. hopefully its okay. then unplug everything again, pull the washer out and look where the damaged cord goes into the machine, the back of the washer may have to come off. remove the strain relief fitting by turning a quartewr turn clockwise, remove the ground wire and remove the wires off their posts carefully. look carefully at the cord for a ridged end of the cord or writing on the cord this is your neutral side of the wire, make sure when you replace with the new cord the wiring is exactly the way it was on the old cord. reorder the cord from the sears parts store and hopefully that gets you going. if things are worse than this or you have any doubt, call the repairman..jm

While looking for the fuse, which I could not find despite opening up the machine from the back (and vacuuming underneath--yuck!), I left the washer unplugged for about 30 min. From reading other forums and such, I realized that unplugging for a little while is often the solution because the prolonged (at least 5 min) lack of power triggers the system to reset. Sure enough, when I went back to plug it in and give up for the night, the thing worked fine. Good luck to anyone else out there!

Is the power cord plugged into a grounded 3 prong outlet?
Plug power cord into a grounded 3 prong outlet.
Are you using an extension cord?
Do not use an extension cord.
Has a household fuse blown, or has a circuit breaker tripped?
Check to see if a household circuit breaker or Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) outlet has tripped. If so, reset the circuit breaker or Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter. If the washer is on a fuse box, check to see if a fuse has blown and replace it, if necessary. If the problem continues to occur, call an electrician.
Are both the hot and cold water faucets turned on?
Turn on the water. Check the household faucets to see if the hot and cold water faucets are turned on. Make sure to open both faucets completely for proper fill.
NOTE: Both hot and cold water must be connected to the washer and turned on. The washer will not operate properly with only one incoming source of water.
Is the water inlet hose kinked?

Straighten the water inlet hoses.
Are the water inlet valve screens on the washer clogged?
Turn off the water and remove the inlet hoses from the washer. Remove any accumulated film or particles. Reinstall hoses, turn on water and check for leaks.

Is the washer in a normal pause in the cycle?
The washer pauses for about 2 minutes during certain cycles. Allow the cycle to continue. Some cycles feature periods of tumbling and soaking.
Is the washer door firmly shut?
The door must be completely closed for the washer to operate. The door may look closed, but may not be latched. Open the door and close firmly.
Are the shipping bolts removed?


All four shipping bolts must be removed from the rear of the washer before you operate the washer. Each unit is shipped from the factory with four bolts, which are designed to protect the washer during shipping. Failure to remove all of the shipping bolts, and the four plastic spacers that are with them, can result in noise, vibration, error codes and possible machine damage.
Has a cycle been selected, but Start has not been selected and held for 1 second?
Press and hold Start for 1 second.
Is the Control Locked status light on?
Press and hold the End of Cycle Signal button for three seconds. This will turn off the Control Lock feature.
Is the Delay Wash status light on?
Your washer will start after the selected hours of delay are completed.
Was the door left closed after the last cycle?
The washer door must be opened and closed again to start a new cycle. If the door is not opened between cycles, the washer may not start.