Question about Kenmore 62622 Microwave Oven
Heated just fine the night before and when heating up simple cup of coffee like normal and with microwave on and sounding like it was working, pulled out cup to find it had not heated.
When you hit "Start" to
microwave, do the inside light, cooling fan, and turntable all
Any unusual noises? Is it louder or quieter than usual?
We have a sound clip of what a microwave should sound like when the cooling fan and high voltage section are operating here.
Post a new help request with the answers to these questions as well as the full model number from the tag on or in the unit.
A full Sears/Kenmore model number has 3 digits, a dot, then 8 more digits, such as ###.########
Posted on Apr 16, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The most likely causes are a bad door switch, a loose connector on the magnetron, or a bad magnetron. If you or a friend decide to work on it, we have *critical* safety and disassembly info at our site, which is linked at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk Here's a reprint of one of our FAQS on the subject: Q. My microwave seems to be running okay, but it won't heat. A. If you are a do-it-yourselfer with the right equipment and care, you can do quite a bit of troubleshooting, but once you get near the high voltage section, it is time to be VERY sure of your actions. DANGER: Microwaves produce lethal voltages. They can kill. Before you go any further, you should read the safety warnings here: http://188.8.131.52/mwd/safety.txt If you find line voltage (100-125 VAC) on the primary of the high-voltage transformer while the oven is running, the problem is indeed in the high voltage section. If that line voltage is not present, then the problem is not in the high voltage section. Door switches would be one suspect, as well as a control panel problem. To check door swithces, see this file: http://www.microwavedisplay.com/doorsw.txt If you have or suspect control panel problems, see details of the repair service here: http://184.108.40.206/mwd/index.htm There are a few prime suspects to be aware of in the high-voltage section, mainly the high-voltage rectifier diode, the magnetron, and the high-voltage transformer. DIODE: Did the oven pop during the cooking cycle? If so, that's pretty good evidence that the diode has gone bad, not that's not the only way it can fail. High-voltage rectifier ID & diagnosis can be found here: http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/diode.html MAGNETRON: Sometimes everything looks and seems okay, but the magnetron is simply not producing heat. At other times, it may be arcing inside, and producing a noise that sounds something like someone growling into a coffee mug. It's also possible that the mag may have a cracked magnet. Check for that, too. More likely, it may be that the magnetron filament connectors have loosened (they should be snug) and, due to resistive heat, the terminal connections have deteriorated and burned loose to some degree. A photo showing that area can be found here: http://220.127.116.11/mwd/magterm.jpg . Here are some tips if you have loose connections: If the connectors feel loose, and any burning or melting seems minor, you should be able to carefully tighten the connectors with a pair of pliers, then sand or file the rusty-looking terminals of the magnetron until they are clean and shiny. If the burning is more serious, the connectors may need to be replaced. They can be obtained from home improvement centers and auto parts stores. They are 1/4" connectors and can be squeezed in place onto stripped wire with proper crimpers or a pair of pliers. Another option is to cut the connectors off the wires and solder the wires directly to the magnetron terminals. If this is done, do not apply heat to the terminals any longer than necessary. If the burning is really bad, the plastic surrounding the magnetron terminals is charred or melted, the magnetron may need to be replaced. HIGH-VOLTAGE TRANSFORMER: When the voltage transformer fails, it will often emit heat and smoke, but with the fan running, you might not smell it. With the cover off, it may be easier to smell. Also, you can look at the windings and see if they look discolored due to heat. If a high-voltage transformer is shorting, it can blow the fuse a few seconds after pressing the start button to start a cooking cycle. High-voltage transformer ID & diagnosis can be found here: http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/xformer.html HIGH-VOLTAGE CAPACITOR: The high-voltage capacitor will usually fail by shorting. When it does, the fuse will be blown right after you press the start button to begin a cooking cycle. If the capacitor is old and dries out, then it can fail by just not allowing the high-voltage to be doubled. I don't remember having ever seen this condition. High-voltage capacitor ID & diagnosis can be found here: http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/cap_test.html More information on the high-voltage circuit can be found here: http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/doubler.html Again, be safe!
Posted on Feb 25, 2007
SOURCE: microwave no heat
The "HUMM" indicates a breakdown in the High Voltage Side. The loud "POP" was the breakdown. You have only four Components in the High Voltage side.
1. High Voltage Transformer. You can eliminate this as the problem. Why? If it was the problem it would have blown the line fuse, and would have given off a burned transformer smell.
2. High Voltage Diode. Usually will Burn or Pop when shorted, but will then OPEN the Circuit and there is no "HUMM".
3. High Voltage Capacitor.This is the Silver Can with the two terminals on top. It can SHORT internaly between the plates (the two terminals) and give the "HUMM".
4. Magnetron. This is my number one suspect. A SHORTED Magnetron.
Posted on Feb 03, 2008
Generally, the most common causes of a failure to heat are:
- bad door switches or door switch mounts
- loose connection at the magnetron
- problem or loose connection on the control unit circuit board
- bad magnetron or other high voltage part (such as a shorted diode)
If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information, info on door switch diagnosis and replacement, and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383
If not, please reply back with your brand and full model.
We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Posted on Mar 30, 2008
A little over 100F is hotter than most folks can stand to touch, so it may not be seriously hot.
But if you're concerned, you might see if your dealer will let you test another one or a similar model at the store to see if it also gets that hot.
Otherwise, you can return it to be safe or you can contact Panasonic consumer electronics support here or at 1-800-211-7262 to ask them about it.
We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Posted on Jan 03, 2009
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