Dump valve running continious its not turning off automatic

Is it dumping water or is it pouring water back into the ice bin? if it is pouring water back into ice bin than check your water float to make sure it is not calling for water also make sure the water valve is not letting water seep buy you can cut power to machine and if you here water still entering sump tray then replace water valve. if not then turn machine back on check and see it the water full light is on if so and water is still entering sump tray then replace float switch. If water full light is not on and the sump tray is full of water than remove the water sensor and clean or replace it.

first, freeze cycle too short because you are loosing water. Water may be leaking thru the dump valve. Look at drain while machine is running and see of alot of water is draining. The dump valve spring may be week or there is trash in the dump valve preventing it from seating properly. drain water first before pulling dump valve apart.

If it continuously drips, replace the water inlet valve on the back where the house water supply comes in.

Good day,
Sounds like a bad water valve located in the rear bottom of the machine. (not shutting down properly).
Solution is to replace the valve.
In extremely rare cases it can be a faulty ice maker.
The ice maker sends power to the water valve for 7 seconds on each cycle. If the circuit board in the ice maker malfunctions, it could cause this problem.
But again, very rare.

I am assuming that water is running all the time if it is turned on from the house water supply.

If this is the case try unplugging the flat or round cable that runs between the ice maker and the wall of the freezer. If that stops the power to the dump valve then the problem is in the ice maker itself.

You will have to remove it and check the switch contacts to see if they are stuck or broken. There is a thermal switch that causes the cubes to dump and then add more water to the trays. If you can't figure out how this system works but un-plugging the cable stops the power at the valve, the only solution is a new ice maker unit.

A new icemaker will run about $90 retail if you can't get the contacts working corrrectly.

If water is not running all the time it is likely that the ice maker is calling for more water and the valve is not responding. Get a new valve.

dwilli10

It is possible the water control valve on the back of the refrigerator is defective. When the thermostat in the ice maker tells the water control valve to ope after dumping the ice. Try filling the ice maker with tap water and let it freeze and cycle one time. It is also possible that the fill tube for the ice maker has frozen shut because of the slow continious flow of a leaking water control valve. You can try to clear the ice with a hair dryer, but if the control valve continues to let water buy will have another damaged ice maker. The part number for the water control valve is WR57X10032 and you can enter parts numbers and model numbers on the search feature at the link below. Let me know how thing are and if you were able to get this under control, I am here to help if you like, sorry I just today saw your post, Thanks, Sea Breeze

http://servicepartstec.blogspot.com/

THE BEST PLACE TO PUT IT IS IN THE LARGE INTAKE NEXT TO THE AIR BOX

that model may have a digital timer that is acssed using the panal swithes get the number for wilbur curtis from thier web site they will talk you through it {simple} the other style timer is a potentiometer type To adjust first unplug brewer, look behind either the front panel or top cover for a dial with numbers around it. turn the dial down slightly brew a pot of water see where the water level comes keep turning down till desired level is reached

RWAL Fault codes
Codes for Dodge RWAL, Ford RABS and GM RWAL applications are similar but have a few differences:

1. Should not occur (replace the controller if it does)
2. Open isolation valve circuit or defective ABS module
3. Open dump valve circuit or defective ABS module
4. Grounded or closed RABS or RWAL valve switch
5. Excessive actuations of dump valve during ABS braking
6. Erratic speed sensor signal
7. Shorted isolation valve or defective ABS module
8. Shorter dump valve or defective ABS module
9. High resistance or open speed sensor circuit (resistance should be 1000 to 2500 ohms)
10. Low speed sensor resistance (Dodge & Ford only)
11. Open speed sensor circuit (GM only)
12. Stop lamp switch circuit (Dodge & Ford)
13. ABS module speed processor (Dodge & Ford only)
14. ABS module program (Dodge & Ford only)
15. ABS module RAM memory failure (Dodge & Ford)

To manually clear a stored fault code on GM and some Dodge trucks with RWAL, remove the ABS fuse or disconnect the battery for 5 seconds. Ford RABS codes will automatically clear when the ignition is turned to the off position.