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Question about Malber WD1000 Front Load Washer/Dryer

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Need service for Malber 1000 heating element..

I have a Malber 1000 washer/dryer combo unit and the heating element for the drying cycle stopped working. The machine still spins and condensates through the cycle, but with no heat. I live in Haverhill Massachusetts and am having trouble locating a repairman/service for a Malber. Any suggestions for an affordable fix and/or how to get a local service call? I know it most likely needs a heating element replaced, but without parts locally available, and someone knowledgeable in Malber repair to fix it, I don't know what I can do. I've tried calling the 718-767-7396 # in NY but haven't been able to get through..

Posted by niffa on

  • jrc2127 Apr 01, 2009

    I think it's the same problem: the heating element clearly isn't working, but the timer for the dryer also seems involved. it sticks right around the 120' mark, and although you can force it (I've only done it once), and then the timer dial will move (if you don't force it past that point, it won't), it never shuts itself off and the heating element never goes on. I also haven't been able to get through to that NY number, though I've had good luck w/ them in the past (I'm in Brooklyn).


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Hi. Mike here. I repair Malbers in the Washington D.C. area. The most likely problem is not the heating element, but the hi-temp (or "brown") thermostat. They cost about $25 and are very simple to install. A "Torx 1.5" screwdriver (asterisk tip) removes two screws, in back, holding top on. Lift off top, and (from the front) see silver-foil-wrapped heating assy. At lower right will be a small philips screw holding a thin wire "hasp" which holds the thermostat in place. Remove screw and hasp (without dropping in machine!), unplug two "quiik-connect" lugs (orange & red wires) and pull out thermostat to the right. New one slips right back in. Replace wires, hasp, phillips screw and top -and you're done! This is 90% sure to fix. The heating element is only about 5% likely.
One last thing ... when re-inserting new thermostat, you'll have to "wrestle" with it a bit, as the tip needs to slip into a tiny (hard to "find") hole. Keep trying, and eventually it'll fit ALL the way in, so the hasp can hold it. To purchase part, call Joel (at Malber): 800-600-8913
Oh yeah, one MORE last thing... That red wire may be burnt a little, or completely burnt in two. Radio Shack and Home Depot sell "crimp-on" lugs (1/4") like these (female). Trim back the wire, crimp a new lug on the end, and push it back onto lower terminal on thermostat. If wire is too short, of course, add a few inches of 16 guage "stranded" (lamp cord). The same stores also sell tubular "crimp-on" wire-connectors (little blue tubes) to join the old and new wires. May God bless.

Posted on Mar 11, 2009

  • 5 more comments 
  • ghousman Sep 26, 2010

    We need to replace our door latch. Can we do it ourselves? Get the part at Malber or do we need a new door?

  • Gearmeister Oct 03, 2010

    Mike, in Washington D.C., again. Of course you can do it yourself. First call Joel (Malber in NY) at 800-600-8913 or 516-294-6660 . Tell him which model machine you need a door latch for (if you aren't sure, check label in rear).
    Once you've received your new latch assy (about $20):
    Open door, and notice white plastic "ring" around glass is actually 2 pieces (front and rear) snapped together - with a seam around periphery.
    Unsnap (separate) them by either getting your fingernails into the seam and pulling them apart - or prying them open with a spackle knife or thin screwdriver blade. Once it starts coming apart, just work the opening all the way around.
    Remove front "ring" and set aside.
    Using a 1.5mm Torx screwdriver, remove 2 small screws holding broken latch assy. Note the way the ends of the spring go under the 2 screws. That's the way it has to go back.
    Slip new latch assy into place, pressing vertical "hinge pin" and ends of spring into slots (near screw holes).
    Replace 2 screws. Test latch with door open - is it working? Try closing door. All good?
    Replace front "ring": Open door and, while pulling out on latch handle, slip the ring over the latch handle and get it into approximate position. Let go of latch (it snaps into "closed" position) and adjust ring so it doesn't bind the latch handle (meaning it's free to move). Now, beginning anywhere on outside edge, begin snapping rings together - and continue all the way around.
    Test that door latch still operates smoothly and that door latches shut properly.
    FYI: There is no adjustment for this latch assy - it just fits precisely where it's supposed to.
    Good luck and God Bless ...

  • JoJoNoLow Sep 09, 2011

    Actually the problem is likely to be the heating element. Suds can get up into the area where the heating element is and corrode it over time. I took Mike's advice and checked the thermostat first--the easiest fix--but it worked fine. The heating element though was completely corroded through.

  • Steven Bate Aug 26, 2020

    Mike, I don't know if you're still monitoring these posts. After all, it's been over 10 years! But if so I just wanted to thank you for your very clear and easy-to-follow solution and instructions for a Malber dryer heat problem. For those that have a Malber 1000 with the same problem, I can wholeheartedly endorse this answer. I'm no handyman but it was relatively simple and doing it myself probably saved hundreds or more. Wife just assumed it was time to buy a new one. Ha! Not yet dear!

  • Gearmeister Aug 26, 2020

    Hey Steven,
    FixYa sent me an email mentioning your post. I'm very happy I was able to help you (and maybe others) fix their own machine. Several years ago, Malber HQ (in Italy) decided to no longer support their half-hearted effort to sell their appliances in the U.S. So the small Malber importing company (in NY) could no longer get new machines or parts. After that, it wasn't long before I had no more spare parts either. So, around 2015 I had to start telling callers there was no way to repair their machine.
    I wonder when you repaired your WD1000? It must have been several years ago. Thanks for making the effort to go back and send me a thank you. It made my day!

  • Steven Bate Apr 19, 2021

    Hi Mike, Steve here from last August. Sorry I didn't respond earlier. I never came back to the site after sending my message. Until now that is...because I am having the same problem: no dryer heat. Last time I didn't have to replace any parts because the lower (red) wire was burnt. So I just cut the end off, put on a new lug, and it worked perfectly again. I just saw the same problem with the wire so I replaced the lug. Still no heat so I guess it must be the thermostat too this time. So is there anything else I can try or is there another brand of thermostat that might work? Seems like it would be a shame to replace the machine over such a small problem. Thanks!

  • Gearmeister Dec 16, 2021

    Steve, Like you, I haven't been back to the FixYa site until now (when I was sent an email reminder.

    So, I'm sorry this Reply is 8 months late!

    When those thermostats fail, they always fail in the ON state (conducting electricity). That means the Heating Element is always ON, so it gets 30-40 degrees hotter than usual. That heat is what burns the red wire AND it dries the clothes faster (and hotter) than optimal. When you simply reattached the red wire you put the Heating Element back to running full time, continuing the over-heating. It's not a fire hazard but it slowly damages your clothes AND it quickly burns out the Heating Element. So now you have a burnt-out Heating Element AND a shorted Thermostat.

    I checked (years ago) if anyone else made a thermostat that could replace Malber's. I found nothing remotely similar. No one makes a Heating Element to fit, either. So, sadly, that old machine is headed to the dump. Happily, nowadays several manufacturers make better Condensing Dryers, similar to the old Malbers. Good Luck!


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