Question about Malber WD1000 Front Load Washer/Dryer

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Need service for Malber 1000 heating element..

I have a Malber 1000 washer/dryer combo unit and the heating element for the drying cycle stopped working. The machine still spins and condensates through the cycle, but with no heat. I live in Haverhill Massachusetts and am having trouble locating a repairman/service for a Malber. Any suggestions for an affordable fix and/or how to get a local service call? I know it most likely needs a heating element replaced, but without parts locally available, and someone knowledgeable in Malber repair to fix it, I don't know what I can do. I've tried calling the 718-767-7396 # in NY but haven't been able to get through..

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  • jrc2127 Apr 01, 2009

    I think it's the same problem: the heating element clearly isn't working, but the timer for the dryer also seems involved. it sticks right around the 120' mark, and although you can force it (I've only done it once), and then the timer dial will move (if you don't force it past that point, it won't), it never shuts itself off and the heating element never goes on. I also haven't been able to get through to that NY number, though I've had good luck w/ them in the past (I'm in Brooklyn).

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Hi. Mike here. I repair Malbers in the Washington D.C. area. The most likely problem is not the heating element, but the hi-temp (or "brown") thermostat. They cost about $25 and are very simple to install. A "Torx 1.5" screwdriver (asterisk tip) removes two screws, in back, holding top on. Lift off top, and (from the front) see silver-foil-wrapped heating assy. At lower right will be a small philips screw holding a thin wire "hasp" which holds the thermostat in place. Remove screw and hasp (without dropping in machine!), unplug two "quiik-connect" lugs (orange & red wires) and pull out thermostat to the right. New one slips right back in. Replace wires, hasp, phillips screw and top -and you're done! This is 90% sure to fix. The heating element is only about 5% likely.
One last thing ... when re-inserting new thermostat, you'll have to "wrestle" with it a bit, as the tip needs to slip into a tiny (hard to "find") hole. Keep trying, and eventually it'll fit ALL the way in, so the hasp can hold it. To purchase part, call Joel (at Malber): 800-600-8913
Oh yeah, one MORE last thing... That red wire may be burnt a little, or completely burnt in two. Radio Shack and Home Depot sell "crimp-on" lugs (1/4") like these (female). Trim back the wire, crimp a new lug on the end, and push it back onto lower terminal on thermostat. If wire is too short, of course, add a few inches of 16 guage "stranded" (lamp cord). The same stores also sell tubular "crimp-on" wire-connectors (little blue tubes) to join the old and new wires. May God bless.

Posted on Mar 11, 2009

  • 1 more comment 
  • ghousman Sep 26, 2010

    We need to replace our door latch. Can we do it ourselves? Get the part at Malber or do we need a new door?

  • Gearmeister Oct 03, 2010

    Mike, in Washington D.C., again. Of course you can do it yourself. First call Joel (Malber in NY) at 800-600-8913 or 516-294-6660 . Tell him which model machine you need a door latch for (if you aren't sure, check label in rear).
    Once you've received your new latch assy (about $20):
    Open door, and notice white plastic "ring" around glass is actually 2 pieces (front and rear) snapped together - with a seam around periphery.
    Unsnap (separate) them by either getting your fingernails into the seam and pulling them apart - or prying them open with a spackle knife or thin screwdriver blade. Once it starts coming apart, just work the opening all the way around.
    Remove front "ring" and set aside.
    Using a 1.5mm Torx screwdriver, remove 2 small screws holding broken latch assy. Note the way the ends of the spring go under the 2 screws. That's the way it has to go back.
    Slip new latch assy into place, pressing vertical "hinge pin" and ends of spring into slots (near screw holes).
    Replace 2 screws. Test latch with door open - is it working? Try closing door. All good?
    Replace front "ring": Open door and, while pulling out on latch handle, slip the ring over the latch handle and get it into approximate position. Let go of latch (it snaps into "closed" position) and adjust ring so it doesn't bind the latch handle (meaning it's free to move). Now, beginning anywhere on outside edge, begin snapping rings together - and continue all the way around.
    Test that door latch still operates smoothly and that door latches shut properly.
    FYI: There is no adjustment for this latch assy - it just fits precisely where it's supposed to.
    Good luck and God Bless ...

  • JoJoNoLow Sep 09, 2011

    Actually the problem is likely to be the heating element. Suds can get up into the area where the heating element is and corrode it over time. I took Mike's advice and checked the thermostat first--the easiest fix--but it worked fine. The heating element though was completely corroded through.

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Doing a Load of Wash for Portable/ Kitchen Faucet
1) Make sure machine is set to Cold/Cold and never use Hot/Cold button (Hot/Cold is only for permanent hook-ups). Connect water hose to kitchen faucet. Turn on water to temperature of choice.

2) Load machine half to three-fourths full of clothes. (only half full is recommended if you intend to use the dry cycle right after the wash cycle. For half loads, push in the half-load button. )

3) Add detergent and fabric softener:
a. Liquid detergent into 2nd slot: only 1 tablespoon, 2 tablespoons maximum
b. Fabric softener into 3rd slot. this really helps in preventing wrinkles
(****NOTE: THE MOST COMMON AND MOST DAMAGING ERROR IN THE USE OF FRONT-LOADING MACHINES IS OVERSOAPING. oversoaping causes - pump failure, drain failure, etc. - none of
which are covered by the warranty. The only reason top
loaders use so much soap is because they use so much water and this dilutes the soap. Also, always use detergents that have an HE -- High Efficiency -- rating.)

4) Select Wash Cycle
Permanent Press is likely to be fine (32 minutes) as the USA has softer water than in Europe for which machine was originally designed. Hard water, as in Europe, means it requires more detergent and more washing motion than in the USA. Prewash and/or Superwash (53 minutes) might be preferred for dirtier clothes.

5) Select Spin Cycle
600 should be fine. A higher cycle means dryer clothes, perhaps more wrinkles, and certainly more noise. (Malber USA suggests 800-900 as the norm).

6) Make sure Spin cycle has cold water.
Faucet should be changed to cold water AFTER the initial fill even if you are not drying - all rinses should be in cold water for more complete removal of soap residue

If you use Dry Cycle
7) Select time for desired dry cycle. Make sure to change the faucet to cold water. If you do not want to use Dry cycle, select 0 minutes. Otherwise, use 120 minutes the first time until you can gauge what types of loads require how much drying time. Here's how the Dryer works: A heating element inside the washer heats up the load. During the dry cycle, as the cold water from the faucet circulates into the machine (in tubes, not mixed in with the load), it cools the steam and condenses it into liquid water which is pumped out.

After Wash & Dry
8) It takes approximately 90 seconds after the cycles are completely done before it allows you to open the door. Malber USA says it is due to safety requirement of UL. Who knows what UL security feature is for. Perhaps extra time to finish draining.

9) door slightly ajar to let the machine dry out. I have read postings that say the machine becomes smelly with mildew if you do not. Malber USA says this is true for all horizontal axis (front-loading) washers.


Most common complaints
1) Using too much detergent.
Front loader machines do not need so much water, and thus not so much detergent. Also USA water is softer than European water, for which the machine was originally designed, and that may explain why the detergent compartment is so big to hold more detergent. Soft water is easier to get suds. Damage is caused by suds. Suds migrate up the hot air duct during wash cycle and come to rest on the heating element. After repeated occurrences, suds (which are corrosive) will cause rusting and eventual failure of the heating element.

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(thanks to Malber USA for points a and b)

a) the system may have overheated, tripping the safety thermal switch. This switch is located under the top of the machine and can be easily fixed by the consumer.

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is recommended that a qualified tech do the job.

c) Machine is too full and/or fabrics are too heavy.
Even though you can wash a maximum load of 11 lbs. of clothes, the manual suggests to dry no more than 7 lbs. of cotton clothes and 5 lbs. of heavy or extra large fabrics. Thats because the dryer works by heating up the clothes and then condensing the steam from the circulating air into liquid water which is pumped out. If the machine is filled too much or if the fabrics are too dense (e.g., jeans), the system cannot condense enough water and the clothes remain humid. Perhaps a second 2 hour dry cycle could work, but who wants to dry clothes for 4 hours.

d) Broken heating element
Seems that the heating element breaks after 2-3 years and needs to be replaced. And why is that? Most common reason for heating element failure is oversoaping. Suds migrate up the hot air duct during wash cycle and come to rest on the heating element. After repeated occurrences, suds (which are corrosive) will cause rusting and eventual failure of the heating element. But many people simply choose to not use the dryer rather than have it fixed.
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