- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
If you are trying to rip wood with the fence it will most likely be that your fence is not true to your blade check the blade to see if it is the same distance on both ends of the blade to the fence. If that is the case you will need to adjust your blade. Check your owners manuel to start that process.
First question: What are you cutting? Are you cutting wood? If you're using fence, I need you to make adjustments on it . The nature of the band saw is to drift either left or right being parallel with the band saw fence. Is the blade tension too tight or insufficient? Check your manual for correct tension or you can just see in the tension gauge on your saw. Please this blog on how to check the correct blade tension . What is your feed and speed rate? Make sure the you're not feeding the wood too slow or too fast. Are you using new blade? Your blade is may be dull or low quality. I purchased my blades on www.sawblade.com . Their Haltbar 201 Series works great on general wood cutting. Last question, have you taken up time to tune up your saw? See this blog for your reference.
I'm betting that the table isn't square to the blade. My Cabinet Makers Table Saw does the same thing - the top plate (the big heavy cast iron plate that weighs about 50 pounds) sits on top of the sheet metal box that houses the motor and motor lift. This cast iron plate is held onto the sheet metal box by 3 screws (usually).
Loosen the 3 screws and the cast iron plate can move around on top of the sheet metal box (the holes for the screws are large enough to allow 1/8 inch movement). Looking down from the top, you can rotate the cast iron plate clockwise and it will move the front of the blade closer to the fence and the back of the blade away from the fence. Counter-clockwise does the opposite.
For the best adjustment, use a dial indicator mounted to something that slides in the track of the table top. Position the dial indicator agains the blade and slide it back and forth in the track of the table top. This will accurately set the table top to the blad (so they are parallel within 0.0005 inches).
Then check the accuracy of your fence (sounds like this is good). Don't forget to check the alignment of your riving knife/guard & splitter to the blade (if it's off you can't feed wood because it will hit the splitter).
Possible that the fence you are using is not on a true parallel line with the blade and as a result it is causing the wood to pull into the blade causing kickback.
I would do an alignment procedure on the fence to make it as true to the blade as possible.
Possibly the problem is the wood itself. If it is burning both sides of the kerf then it is probably that your kiln dried wood is picking up moisture on the outside from the environment which causes it to bow inwards as it passes the saw. I have even had this problem with plywood. Just keeping timber in an unheated workshop for a while can cause the problem but after a few months it should equalize and the problem disappear at about 15% moisture content. (kiln dried timber should be nearer 10%) Cut part way along a plank and then mesure the kerf at the end of the plank and at the front of the cut. if it is significantly narrower at the plank end then that is your problem. These hard woods you mention are always a problem to cut on domestic saws at usually a maximum of 2000 watts . I use a 4500 watt motor in my saw and it will still complain at dry oak, ash and maple etc. especially if they are moving a bit as I cut them. Before I retired I had a panel saw half as powerful again as that and still those hard woods could cause trouble.
How did the blade get out of whack? Take the blade all the way up, put a straight edge against the blade, measure to the miter slot front and rear, if it is not the same, you will have to lightly loosen the carriage underneath and bump the thing over one way or the other with a lead hammer. Get it straight, then torque it back up. You should be all set. You can set your fence to the miter slots the same way. lock it down and check it, if it isn't right, adjust the fence, all fence adjust , from the cheapest to the best. Hope this helps.
You should be able to adjust the fence but every model is different so I probably cannot tell you exactly how. My Biesemeyer fence has 2 set screws on front guide of the fence for parallel adjustment to the blade (this fence is a single piece fence). I had a Sears contractor saw that had 2 bolts on the top of the fence that needed to be loosened, the fence moved parallel, and the bolts tightened again (the Sears fence was a bolt together fence).Whatever fence you have I would think the adjustment would be on the front part of the fence. I would remove the fence (the fence only, not the guides) from your table saw and take a close look at it for any adjustment screws (the Biesemeyer set screws are somewhat hidden) . If the fence bolts together you will probably need to loosen the bolts to do the alignment. There is a quick check you can make to verify the problem is the fence not being parallel to the blade because your problem could also be caused by a bent saw blade arbor (the saw blade would wobble as it turns) øLock your fence down and measure from the front of the blade to the fence and from the back of the blade to the fence. These measurements should be within 1/32” (ideally is should be zero). øIf the fence passes the test above, you can see if your saw blade shaft is bent by sliding the fence very near the blade, locking the fence down, and rotation the blade by hand (unplug the saw first). If the blade rubs on the fence as it rotates then you could have a bent arbor, a bad arbor bearing, or a bent blade.
ok yep your blade is out of alignment with the fence. It is closer to the fence at the rear than the front. You need to make the modification or adjustment to your fence, if it allows that, and then worry about the miter slots later (which should be adjusted miter slot to blade, not miter slot to fence). You might be able to adjust the miter slot to blade by moving the actual table and then securing witht he table mount bolts. Check your manual for how to align the fence.
You do want to fix that though as it can be potentially dangerous and result in kickback of the workpiece which is a rather SCARY thing, and very dangerous.
You adjust the handle tension by actually adjusting the t-square itself, changing the relative position it sits from the rect tube mounted to the saw.
This is done by turning the two allen set screws mounted in the angle iron that is welded to the fence. There are a couple of tabs that ride along the inside face of the rect tube when the fence slides from side to side. You'll see that each of these tabs is adjustable, in or out, by slightly turning the allen set screws with an allen wrench. BOTH of these must be adjusted, so that you maintain the fence's 'squareness' to the table.
What I do is line up the edge of the fence with the mitre slot in the saw table, feeling the edge of the fence as it hangs over the edge of the mitre slot, both at the infeed and outfeed end of the slot. It should be perfectly flush at both ends.
By turning the set screws in or out a little, you can adjust the handle tension to the place where you like it (you don't need to force it into position to have it hold firmly; that's too tight). Then check the squareness of the fence by clamping it down along the edge of the mitre jig slot, and see if it's parrallel. If not, you need to adjust one or both screws to make it parrallel, and get the tension right. You may have to go back and forth a few times, but eventually you can dial it in to where it feels just right and the alignment is correct. Think small adjustments.
At the same time, put a little dab of wheel bearing grease or vaseline on the cam of the fence handle where it rubs against that little flap. This will make it easier to engage when the tension is firm and keep it from wearing abrasively.
This fence is a joy to use when it's dialed in. I hope you find this information helpful. Happy woodworking!