Question about GE G.e Refrigerator Wr55x10942 Motherboard Main Board
SOURCE: Evaporator fan not working
Most G.E. the fan will not work if limit control is not working, staying in open position.This also means the defrost heater will not work. If you had an amp probe it would simplify your diagnoses. you could put it into defrost,and if the amps showed heater was not coming on it would prove my theory. The limit control is a small button like switch about 1 inch in diameter cliped to the cooling
coils in back of freezer. Hope this helps.
Posted on Feb 21, 2008
Hopefully I can help. If your fan runs then all freezer is getting cold than the fan is not your problem.
An icemaker's motor and switches may be in a module that must be replaced as a unit if any one part is bad. Holes in the module let you test the parts. CAUTION: Unplug the refrigerator before testing the icemaker motor or heater. Don't touch the jumper wire when testing the thermostat.
To use the test holes in the module, take off the icemaker cover and insert VOM(volt-ohm meter) probes in the holes. The components to test are usually listed inside the cover. When testing, shutoff arm should be down, and ejector blades should be in normal resting(2 o'clock) position.
To test module motor with VOM on RX1, insert probes into test holes L(line voltage) and M(motor). Look for a reading indicating significant continuity. Test heater in holes L and H(moldheater); look for a reading near 72 ohms. To replace module, take out screws and pull off. Replace entire module. If heater tests faulty, unmount icemaker, unscrew housing from ice mold-heater unit, and replace mold-heater unit.
Test thermostat with freezer cold. Unplug refrigerator. Insert bare ends of an insulated wire in holes T(thermostat) and H. WITHOUT TOUCHING WIRE, plug in refrigerator. If motor runs, replace thermostat. To replace thermostat, unplug refrigerator and unmount module and housing. Slip thermostat out of housing. Replace thermostat, using special metallic putty where it touches mold.
In a non-modular icemaker, the motor, switches, and thermostat can all be tested and replaced separately. To reach them, UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR. Then take off the front cover of the icemaker and the mounting plate under it. There are usually three switches: The on-off switch is activated by the shutoff arm. The holding switch keeps power flowing to the ejector blades during the ice release phase. The water inlet valve switch controls the flow of water from the water inlet valve. When replacing the thermostat, use the recommended heat-transferring putty between it and the ice mold. To test on-off or holding switch, unmount it and take off leads. With VOM on RX1, probe COM(usually separate from and on the side of the switch) terminal and other two terminals in turm. Look for zero reading on one terminal, infinity on the other. Push button on switch in and retest. Look for reverse readings.
To test thermostat, unmount it, disconnect its leads, and let it warm to room temperature. With VOM on RX1, probe both leads. Look for infinity reading. Place thermostat in a working freezer, and test again. Look for a zero reading.
To test water inlet valve switch, unmount it and take off leads. With VOM on RX1, probe both terminals. Look for zero reading with button out, infinity when you push button in.
To test motor, trace and disconnect motor leads. With VOM on RX10, probe both leads. Look for a reading indicating significant continuity. Replace if infinity or zero.
Posted on Jul 20, 2008
I had the same problem back in March. First the water and ice dispensers stopped working, then the clicking started and the compressor wouldn't turn on. I replaced the circuit board and everything started working again, until today. This is a very common problem with the circuit board on these refrigerators. Do a search for "GE circuit board" and you'll see what I mean. GE issued a service bulletin to its technicians that this service should be provided free of charge, and anyone who already paid to have the circuit board replaced will be reimbursed. I wish I would've known about it 6 months ago. I will be calling GE Consumer Affairs on Monday to get this resolved.
Posted on Dec 13, 2008
look for ice or forst build up on the rear wall of freezer compartment, sounds like you may have a defrost problem. this will affect temps in freezer and refrig. the most common def problems for GE are bad defrost heaters. these are model specific and fairly easy to replace your self. i got this part number form Sears.com WR51X10055 good luck peyton
Posted on Jan 20, 2009
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Most times the motherboard is the
problem that causes the solder to melt from a defective relay. You will need to
inspect the compressor start relay and capacitor to insure that they did not
cause the relay on the board to overheat. Also check that you have 12 volts dc
going to the evaporator and condenser fans while running because if for some
reason the fans are defective and you change the motherboard while one of the
fan motors are defective your new motherboard again can be damaged. Here is a
link to a=> Artica/Profile Service Manual
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