Needed watts and voltage of JbL 5000 series platium speakers

That amp does full power at 2 ohms (and is stable to 1, though not in the manual)

Run it at 2ohms

These sound like they a JBL speaker.
1. You will need the impedence and diameter spec and the Hz (hertz) specifications to get a replacement set.
you can call JBL Altec-Lansing is the company that manufacturer this series of speaker.\ On the back of you speaker cabinet should be a phone number to the company or check the user manual that you received with the speaker system and they should be able to give full information on how to replace the speaker in question or where to have it repaired.
The cabinet is glued together and will need a cabinet expert to disassemble.
Contact JBL for more information.

What is happening is that your amp can deliver 1500 Watts at a given impedance. The Sub PROBABLY is a higher impedance. Your amp runs out of voltage due to the speaker impedance, hence it "flat tops" or clips.

You will probably find the sub is 8 ohms and your amp might deliver 1500 Watts on a 2 ohm system (this is "specsmanship" to sell their product... more is better thing...

If your amp was as above, the max voltage output would be the same before clipping but with the resistance 4 times, the current is only one fourth that which would deliver 1500 Watts. So you would only get 1500/4 Watts into the speaker or about 375 Watts.

If the amp is 1200 watts at 2 ohm stable you will want to set up the speakers as parrallel and bridge the amp. That means conncect the speakers with + to + and - to -. Look at the amp connections. Usually thereare connects that look like this:
+ -
+ - + -

If yours look like this use the diagram on top. You will use the + for the left ouput on the amp to the right - on the amp. This will allow you to use all the power from the amp. Be sure to lower the gain as to not pop the speakers or amp.

Hello sharky75,

That 1600 watt peak power figure for your subwoofer can't tell you what amp you need. You need to know the maximum RMS power the sub can handle. And you need to know the impedance (ohms) of the voice coil(s). JBL GT5 series subs have an RMS rating of 275 watts. The GTO series handles 300 watts. The Power series handles 400 watts. The GTi series handles 700 watts. Some are single voice coil, so the impedance is fixed. Others are dual voice coil allowing you to wire them for different impedance loads.

For maximum performance your amp should be able to provide at or near the same number of watts RMS into the lowest impedance at which the sub can be configured. For example, if your sub is the Power Series Model number P1224, it has dual 4ohm voice coils and can be wired to present either a 2ohm load (parallel) or an 8ohm load (series). You want to wire the voice coils in parallel for the 2ohm load and select an amp that outputs up to 400 watts RMS into 2ohms. The Orion Cobalt CO8001 is just such an amp. If you have one of the GTi Series subs, a better amp would be the JVC Arsenal KS-AR75 which outputs 700 watts into 2ohms.

Hope this helps.

However, none of this I fear will answer your question of "why?" See below
http://www.jblpro.com/pub/technote/tn_v1n12b.pdf

hope this helps

check the switch behind the speaker is powered on

look for the the green colored socket in your soundcard

Try connecting the speakers to another PC if one is available. This will let you know if the problem is in fact the speakers themselves, or something in the way they were being reattached.

Hopefully this will help you get to the solution, and please post back to let me know what's happening. Thanks for rating FixYa!

it set for mono and not stereo

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/james_1cb31da1bc8c6102