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Re: ready heater r100a blows fuel but will not ignite
The air pressure is not set correctly.take a look at the back plate very closly and check to see if you have a crack in one of the plug bosses.if you do the back plate is no good and needs to be replaced.you should also change the adjuster,spring and ball at the same time.now you need to have a gauge to check to see if air pressure is correct.you can not set it with out one.
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Try ez test to check for proper operation. Remove nails and air supply, point nose of gun up then down again. The driver should not move from the top of cylinder position. If driver is moving up then down replace the driver oring. If driver oring seems ok then connect air supply and bump fire the nailer without nails against soft wood and door open so that you can see the driver and feeder moving. Bump fire the gun and make sure that the driver is moving all the way back up to top of cylinder and the feeder is moving rapidly back and forward. If movement seems ok then hold the nose down on soft wood and depress and hold the trigger. This will fire the gun but driver will stay at the bottom position and not return until you release the trigger or lift the gun. When holding the gun with the driver down position, no air should leak out the top or bottom of the gun. If air leaks out bottom, replace lower bumper, if air leaks out the top replace the upper bumper. Good luck
Remove book holder at back by pulling it off by hand. Undo the screws visible at the back cover, there's about 4 or 5 or so there. Unclip that centre back panel now screws are out. Remove clear beans cover, remove water tank, lift up the lid to drop grounds direct to brew chamber. Both side lids in open position. Now firmly grip the top cover and try and slide it directly backwards. If it is stuck a firm thump against the front side of the cavity you removed the water tank from while still pulling the top cover backwards will free it up. The sides lift directly upwards to get them off. When replacing the water tank side panel you need the front door open to clear a little spring leg.
Use this link to parts schematic http://www.paslode.co/uploadedFiles/Cordless_16ga_straight_finish_Parts_Diagram_Schematics.pdf
Remove filter cover (1) and filter (2) remove 4 x cap screws (3) then remove top cover (5) disconnect spark plug lead and fan supply led then rotate head anticlockwise and lift it off, slide out front extrusion (56) remove 2 x screws (68) at bottom front of gun (1 each side) remove 4 x screws (80) from left hand housing cover and 1 x screw (59) from left side of handle bracket (83) Note: Do not remove right hand screw from bracket (83) you will now be able to lift the right hand housing and remove it from the groove in the nail channel, the barrel, combustion chamber and nail channel assembly can now be swung up and out of the right hand housing
Sounds to me as though the internal switch on the top of the cylinder could defective. (located in an upright position near the rear of the chamber) I'd recommend replacing it. If you feel up to it, the job's a bit fiddly and time consuming or, you can take it to a repair center.
Two people required for this
Remove fire from wall
Lay fire on its back
Gently slide glass panel towards top of fire and remove. Store glass safely
At the bottom of the fire there is a lamp cover fixed by 8 Philips head screws.
Remove screws and lift off the lamp cover
Slide the flexible rotisserie to one side ensuring you don't lose the rubber grommet
Remove bulb by pulling it out of the holder (force may be required)
Replace with 40 watt G9 halogen bulb. Take care not to touch the bulb with your bare hands
Push the bulb fully home
Refit the rotisserie making sure the rubber grommet is carefully pushed into the slotted hole in the axial bracket
Refit the lamp cover
Lift the fire back onto the wall and replace glass front by lifting onto the lugs either side of the fire.
first remove the top cap under your handle.
Then, remove the three screws under the handle.
remove the rubber cover on the switch
undo the clamps on the side of the unit
lift off the chrome cover with the cord on it by the handle itself.
When you have the access there, change the filter inside the upper chamber as well.
This is the sequence that I came up with. Good or bad,please rate my post? Thanks Bob
Resetting the Code/Combination From a Lost Code Simplex LP1000 Important: There is no procedure for finding an unknown combination from the front of the lock. A lost combination must be cleared by removing the combination chamber from the lock housing, then a new combination can be set. LP1000 Series FAQ Resetting the Code/Combination From a Lost Code 1. Remove the back plate from the front lock housing by removing the six back plate screws. 2. Remove the two Phillips head screws (F) securing the guide bracket (D to the front housing. Grasp the guide bracket and slide it back to disengage it from the clutch linkage (see figure 1). 3. Lift the two chamber links (A) off of the control shaft (B) using a small flat blade screwdriver. Mark links to assure proper reassembly (see figure 1). 4. Remove the combination chamber (E) by removing the Phillips head screws (G) at each end of the chamber (see figure 1). 5. Remove shaft bushing (C) from control shaft (see figure 1). 6. Remove chamber cover marked ILCO UNICAN (A) (see figure 2) by gently tapping the lip of the chamber cover (A) at the control shaft end of the chamber (see figure 3) with a screwdriver to detach it from the staked joints (B). 7. Lay the chamber on its side as shown in figure 4. 8. With tweezers, or other tool, slide the "E" ring (B) off the unlocking slide stud (A) (see figure 17-4), then gently lift the end of the unlocking slide (C) over the unlocking slide stud (A) (see figure 5). Note: The unlocking slide (C) is under spring tension and will be easier to lift if pushed to the left to ease tension. Swing the unlocking slide (C) sufficiently to clear the gears, (D) no further than shown in figure 5. 9. Depress the lockout slide (E) as shown in figure 6. The gears (D) are now free to rotate. 10. Turn each gear (D) so that the slots (F) are aligned as shown in figure 6. 11. Return the unlocking slide (C) over the unlocking slide studs (A) while making certain the five toes (G) are engaged in the five gear pockets (F). It may be necessary to adjust each gear (D) slightly to make proper alignment between toes and gear slots (see figures 6 & 7). Re-secure the "E" ring on the stud (A). Your chamber will now resemble figure 7 and is ready for reassembly with the lock housing. REASSEMBLY 1. Re-secure the chamber cover (A) marked ILCO UNICAN. Make sure the staked joints (B) (see figure 2) on both end plates fit through both slots on the chamber cover. 2. Re-secure the shaft bushing (C) with flat side facing up (see figure 8). 3. Secure the combination chamber with the two Phillips head screws (G) you removed earlier. 4. Re-secure the chamber links (A) onto the control shaft. 5. Replace the guide bracket (D) by aligning the clutch linkage in the guide bracket and secure with the two Phillips head screws (F) previously removed. 6. Replace the back plate and secure it with the six back plate screws. SETTING THE COMBINATION Do not attempt to set a combination until the complete unit has been reassembled. Perform the following steps in the order shown. 1. Turn the outside lever once to the stop position and then release. 2. Enter the new combination. 3. Turn the outside lever to the stop position, make sure the latch is fully retracted, then release the lever.
Here's what I would do:
Take the two screws off the back plastic parts which are attached to the top cover. Leave the ones in that go into the cover, just remove the bottom one on each side.
Now, standing in front of the machine, use the palms of your hands to sharply push back the top cover (pushing on the right and left edge of the top). It only moves about two inches. Now, lift the cover off.
Use a flashing to try to see into the semi opaque dispenser to determine where the hang up is.
Drill a small hole in the top of the dispenser chamber to allow you to poke an object like a screw driver in to manuver the offending part of the dispenser, allowing removal of the dispenser drawer. Use a peice of foil duct tape to seal the hole you previously drilled.
There are two screws on the right side that are hard to find. One is inside the battery chamber and the other is under the small cover surrounding the shutter release button. The cover is held in place by 2 sided tape. Pry it up carefully starting near the strap lug